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Hawk engine removal?

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  • Hawk engine removal?

    Okay, I am working like a maniac on the 56 power hawk trying to get it stripped to a bare shell so I can get the body to my bodyman by febuary. I am removing the engine & trans (flight-o-matic), and I must confess was suprised the shop manual says to remove the engine and transmission seprately. Is this really nessessary? Can it be done removing it as an engine/trans unit once the radiator, fan and shoud, and radiator support is off the car? Front fenders are still on the car and I really don't want to pull them.

    I hope I don't have to remove the engine and trans seprately as I do not have a lift to put the car on and I don't have a transmission jack. I do have an engine hoist however, and please don't tell me to have a professional shop remove them because thats not an option.

    Thanks
    Kent


  • #2
    Pull it all in one big piece...
    Jeff[8D]
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      "one big piece" meaning???? Front fenders can stay on the car?

      Now is this was a lark or a 47-51 champion , I could do it in my sleep; but this is my first C/K car so I'm not particulary fimiliar with things or procedures unique to a hawk...

      Thanks

      Comment


      • #4
        Kent,

        I have never pulled the engine in either of the Hawks that I owned, but I think it could be done. I suspect that you will need a helper to keep the "nose" up as it is removed.

        I seem to recall that JDP offered some advice on this several months ago. I do not recall the title on the thread but perhaps you could search for something related to engine removal. You just want to make sure that you have it balanced and you don't let it swing back into the firewall or windshield as it comes out. [V]

        Gary


        Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

        Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

        Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.
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        Comment


        • #5
          When re-installing it, make sure you don't mash the front brake lines. Visually you probably won't see it but the first time you have to stomp on the brakes you'll sure know something's wrong.

          Comment


          • #6
            If I recall correctly the engine/trans needs to come out fairly "nose high." If you've removed the radiator support this may be less of an issue but I still think you will have to have a bit of an angle to it so the oil pan clears the bellcrank. To do it neatly I prefer to set the trans. on a floor jack and remove the crossmember but this is not necessary - you just might scrape the firewall a little bit if you don't.

            good luck,

            nate

            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
            --
            55 Commander Starlight
            http://members.cox.net/njnagel

            Comment


            • #7
              If you use one of these engine removal tools it gets a lot easier to do this; you can maintain the angle and make adjustments gradually.
              http://nelson-motorsports.com/stude28.JPG

              '53 Commander
              '53 Commander
              Art Morrison chassis
              LS6 ASA/4L60E

              Comment


              • #8
                The engine removal tool pictured makes it almost impossible with the front clip on. Just hook the chain on to make it nose high and you can pivot up or down as needed while removing and installing. If the front clip is off the car the fancy tool works, but mine was used once and put away on the shelf since you can't pivot quickly while moving the engine in and out. I never drop the x member to pull the drive line as a unit, even though N8 tells me it's impossible every time we do it.


                JDP
                Arnold Md.
                Studebaker On The Net
                http://stude.com
                My Ebay Items
                http://www.stude.com/EBAY/

                64 GT hawk
                64 Commander 2 dr.
                63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
                63 Avanti R1
                63 Daytona convert
                63 Lark 2 door
                63 Lark 2 door #2
                62 Lark 2 door
                60 Hawk
                59 3E truck
                52 Starliner
                51 Commander

                JDP Maryland

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                • #9
                  My problem with the tool was not being able to get it nose high enough to clear the grill and the 4 point chain hook up did not allow N8 to adjust the angle quickly as we moved the engine in and out.


                  JDP
                  Arnold Md.
                  Studebaker On The Net
                  http://stude.com
                  My Ebay Items
                  http://www.stude.com/EBAY/

                  64 GT hawk
                  64 Commander 2 dr.
                  63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
                  63 Avanti R1
                  63 Daytona convert
                  63 Lark 2 door
                  63 Lark 2 door #2
                  62 Lark 2 door
                  60 Hawk
                  59 3E truck
                  52 Starliner
                  51 Commander

                  JDP Maryland

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                  • #10
                    I pulled mine with the balancer tool just like the picture shows. I did not remove the fenders and it worked great. Remember though that with the chains short and the engine tilted way up you can get into trouble not being able to turn the crank on the balancer. Also remember to keep the end of the driveshaft in back of the trans to keep the oil in it.

                    Tim K.
                    '64 R2 GT Hawk
                    Tim K.
                    \'64 R2 GT Hawk

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

                      I have special head bolts I use and never re-use them in any engine. I ground into them and paint them red. Remember, when you pull an engine at that angle, don't plan on using those bolts for anything other than pulling other engines.[8D]
                      Excellent advice!!
                      64 Champ long bed V8
                      55/53 Studebaker President S/R
                      53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Funny talking about head bolts, I just noticed I have a 5 gallon pail full of extra head bolts and have to start a new one, lots of V8's must be laying around somewhere.


                        JDP
                        Arnold Md.
                        Studebaker On The Net
                        http://stude.com
                        My Ebay Items
                        http://www.stude.com/EBAY/

                        64 GT hawk
                        64 Commander 2 dr.
                        63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
                        63 Avanti R1
                        63 Daytona convert
                        63 Lark 2 door
                        63 Lark 2 door #2
                        62 Lark 2 door
                        60 Hawk
                        59 3E truck
                        52 Starliner
                        51 Commander

                        JDP Maryland

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