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Harley brake switch number

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  • Harley brake switch number

    I searched for this on the forum and also know it has been in Turning Wheels, but I just can't find it. I need the part number (Harley Davidson #) for the brake switch that can be used on Studebakers when using DOT 5 fluid.
    Any help will be appreciated.

    Joe Roberts
    '61 R1 Champ
    '65 Cruiser
    Editor of "The Down Easterner"
    Eastern North Carolina Chapter
    Joe Roberts
    '61 R1 Champ
    '65 Cruiser
    Eastern North Carolina Chapter

  • #2
    Harley-Davidson P/N 72023-51C, Joe. It was in the June 2004 Co-Operator. BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    Ayn Rand:
    "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

    Comment


    • #3

      Painless Wiring p/n 80174
      Available at Summit, Jegs, Speedway, Juliano's, etc...
      Comes with the connector, too.
      Jeff[8D]


      quote:Originally posted by JRoberts

      I searched for this on the forum and also know it has been in Turning Wheels, but I just can't find it. I need the part number (Harley Davidson #) for the brake switch that can be used on Studebakers when using DOT 5 fluid.
      Any help will be appreciated.
      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

      Jeff


      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

      Comment


      • #4
        Those are interesting looking (weird) terminals on that Harley switch.
        It would certainly look WRONG on your '65 Cruiser Joe, if it's all original!

        I think I would opt for a Ford or GM plunger type mechanical switch on the pedal stop bracket, I would leave the failed switch there with wires on and cut & reroute the other end under the dash from the turn signal switch to the brake pedal mounted stoplight switch! [^]


        StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

        Comment


        • #5
          They look like a pair of female connectors that were molded together as one unit. The whole magilla just slides onto the ends of the pressure switch, of which is also one piece, without the necessity of having two separate male and female bullet connectors to worry about. I'll say it's another way of doing things, although it would look a little out of place with that modern design. The funny part is I've seen weirder terminals; I've got a whole box in a much larger terminal stash of three way butt connectors. They make things alot simpler when working on wiring taillights, or multiple electric components from a single bus feed .


          [IMG=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/55%20Studebaker%20Commander%20Streetrod%20Project/DSC00017-1-1.jpg[/IMG=left]
          [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
          [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

          1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
          1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
          1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
          1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

            Those are interesting looking (weird) terminals on that Harley switch.
            It would certainly look WRONG on your '65 Cruiser Joe, if it's all original!

            StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest
            Rich: I don't know if the switch Jeff posted is the Harley-Davidson part. Jeff said it came from an aftermarket wiring company known as Painless Wiring, so it may not be the Harley switch...or maybe it is! BP
            We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

            Ayn Rand:
            "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

            G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Regarding this topic of brake switches and DOT5 fluid. I seem to recall someone in the forum saying that they use the factory switch, remove it after the DOT5 fluid is installed and put several drops of DOT3 fluid into the bottom of the switch to fill it up, and re-installed it. I guess the idea is that the switch stays full of the regular fluid and does not come in contact with the DOT5, therefore, not failing due to the fluid. Perhaps someone can chime in on this one, as I am thinking of trying it.

              Thanks,

              Scott

              Comment


              • #8
                No, it is not the Harley switch (afaik), but it is a low pressure switch that is rated for DOT-5 fluid, which is what Joe was looking for.
                Now, lets get onto the originality of using non-original DOT-5 fluid in your stock Studebaker.
                Any judge worth his salt is going to taste your brake fluid at the meet[}]....
                If you guys are gonna split hairs that far, then go the rest of the way![xx(].....
                Jeff[8D]



                quote:Originally posted by BobPalma

                quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

                Those are interesting looking (weird) terminals on that Harley switch.
                It would certainly look WRONG on your '65 Cruiser Joe, if it's all original!

                StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest
                Rich: I don't know if the switch Jeff posted is the Harley-Davidson part. Jeff said it came from an aftermarket wiring company known as Painless Wiring, so it may not be the Harley switch...or maybe it is! BP
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                Comment


                • #9
                  Joe...
                  This may help you with your search.
                  It is a catalog search engine database that is pretty neat...
                  Here's what I found when I typed in "Hydraulic brake switch"
                  http://www.who-sells-it.com/r/hydrau...ke-switch.html
                  HTIH
                  Jeff[8D]


                  quote:Originally posted by JRoberts

                  I searched for this on the forum and also know it has been in Turning Wheels, but I just can't find it. I need the part number (Harley Davidson #) for the brake switch that can be used on Studebakers when using DOT 5 fluid.
                  Any help will be appreciated.


                  http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
                  HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                  Jeff


                  Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                  Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    SALT! Is that why DOT-3 rots wheel cylinders? Just kidding, actually I like the taste of all brake fluids.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Did Studebakers with hanging brake pedals ever have a switch installed at the mount bracket?

                      I noticed there's a hole in the mount bracket aligned with the pedal bracket on my '63 Avanti.

                      The hole is too small, so I'm about to head over to my shop to enlarge it so I can install a modern switch with cruise control/start lock out capabilities.

                      I have an LT1 in my Avanti, and like most modern engine systems the computer requires that the brake be depressed before the car can be started.

                      http://community.webshots.com/user/s...host=community

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Put a 45 degree fitting, facing up, in the end of the MC . Use a standard brake light switch. Problem solved.

                        Richard

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks for all the help guys. Originality of a brake light switch doesn't really concern me. I knew about the harley switch and that it worked and that is why I asked for that particular number. I will take a look at the other alternatives.


                          Joe Roberts
                          '61 R1 Champ
                          '65 Cruiser
                          Editor of "The Down Easterner"
                          Eastern North Carolina Chapter
                          Joe Roberts
                          '61 R1 Champ
                          '65 Cruiser
                          Eastern North Carolina Chapter

                          Comment


                          • #14

                            A mechanical replacement can work great and eliminate problems.
                            I bought out a large dealer stock of switches and made dozens of them for buyers with great reviews.
                            For simple inexpensive, quick, bolt on switch check out the following:

                            http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1963-...Q5fAccessories

                            I have never had a problem with these and they are easily adjustable.
                            No need to drill with existing unused hole.
                            No need for new wires, when you can use existing wires (unwrap and pull back inside).

                            James Bell

                            The Bell Collection
                            Bellingham, WA.
                            Bells Studebaker Diner & Museum
                            Bellingham, WA.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Jim
                              Please give us your address and total price of this setup.
                              That way we would not enrich Ebay!!!
                              I like that setup.
                              You could leave your old switch if it works and hook this new switch to a third brake light in the center of your rear window.
                              The advantage is that the new switch works earlier because it makes when you start pushing the pedal down.
                              The original switch makes when the pressure builds up in the hydraulic system.
                              "Split seconds" but the dent in your rear bumper could be less.
                              Make sure you use a star type lockwasher between the two brackets or use locktite.


                              Comment

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