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  • Wheel cylinder pitting

    While breaking down the old wheel cylinders on my 52 Champion, I noticed that there was some pitting on the inside of the cylinder itself, Presumably from sitting for 30 some years. I did try to buff it out, but no go. Any idea if this will affect the wheel's ability to function properly? Am I better off just getting a new one.
    Thanks!
    Michael

  • #2
    By all means, go to a good parts store and get a NEW one!!!

    Reusing that old one is asking for trouble.

    I'm a firm believer in using NEW brake parts, not rebuilt or 'kitted' stuff.. Just ask me why. [B)]


    Matthew Burnette
    Hazlehurst, GA

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    • #3
      I've honed and recupped many a wheel cylinder. The more you do it, the more often you must do it. Matt's a straight-forward parts salesman. Save your labor and replace with new. Have confidence in your brakes. They are more important than your engine. Inspect all brake lines and hoses. If anything's questionable, new lines are cheap, cheap, cheap insurance.

      That said, cosmoline your used cylinder. Label it and store it. The day will soon come when it will be NLA... ,or not. Old cylinders can be re-sleeved.

      Brad Johnson
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10,
      '51 Commander Starlight,
      '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
      '56 Sky Hawk

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      • #4
        I agree. Better to have a car that won't run than one that won't stop.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          Or, you can have your old cylinders sleeved with stainless steel sleeves. It costs about as much as a new one, and will never rust or pit again.

          Comment


          • #6
            It depends on where the pitting is. If it's in the middle, then go for it. If it's where the seals ride, you may have a leak. But I've done ones that were very pitted where the seal rides and they didn't leak. I used 400 grit sandpaper in a circular motion; not front to back. You might want to start out with 120 grit if they're caked with rust. But sometimes a kit costs more than a rebuilt cylinder.

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            • #7
              I would recommend a brake cylinder hone on a variable-speed drill.
              or
              "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

              Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
              '33 Rockne 10,
              '51 Commander Starlight,
              '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
              '56 Sky Hawk

              Comment


              • #8
                wheels cylinders $20 from rockauto, I wouldn't bother rebuilding for that price. Like someone else said, save your old ones and have them resleeved for your next rebuild, that'll be the last one you should have to do.

                nate

                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                • #9
                  Great feedback as always. I think I'll err on the side of caution and spend the $$ to get new ones from my local NAPA. Thanks all!
                  Michael

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                  • #10
                    Uhhh. Any idea how I can tell what the bore size is? I had no idea there were choices. 7/8" or 1"? These are for the front brakes

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                    • #11
                      The number should be molded into the two rubber cups.

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                      • #12
                        New cast iron wheel cylinders are a good idea. However, they will corrode too, if the brake fluid isn't change every two years to keep the moisture out.

                        If I were going to keep the car for a real long time, I would get the old ones sleeved. And brass sleeves work as good as stainless steel. Sometimes the steel sleeves, being harder than the iron, can cause the cylinders to crack when being installed. As brass is softer, it doesn't happen. And they both get honed after installation for a proper fit for the piston.

                        ========================
                        63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
                        Martinez, CA

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                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by spqr_67

                          Uhhh. Any idea how I can tell what the bore size is? I had no idea there were choices. 7/8" or 1"? These are for the front brakes
                          You may have some airhead parts guys looking at a different model, or the REAR Wheel Cylinders.

                          All '39 to '53 Champions get 1 in. Cyl's. it does take two different ones to cover those years, but your's is the later one: '50-'53 Champion (Studebaker 525208)


                          StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                          • #14
                            I own a few cars and run Silicon brake fluid in them and in 12 years now have never once encountered a single brake leak failure; count me a believer.

                            Happy Trails

                            http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                            http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

                            Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain !

                            http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

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