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  • MPallock
    replied
    Gentlemen:

    It appears that the dwell was set to 20 instead of 28-32.
    As noted this also affected the timing. So I reset the dwell to 29 set timing and readjusted the idle.

    Car seems to run much better now. Will be taking it out for run today just to make sure.
    Thanks to all for the great advice.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    It was me that was backasswards...
    (or I could say 'that was a forum test')

    Do you know what DNA stands for?
    To most it means deoxyribonucleic acid.
    To me it stands for the National Dyslexic Association [8D]
    I am here to help[:0]...
    Jeff[8D]


    quote:Originally posted by buddymander

    I thought each degree of dwell changed the timing two degrees. Have I had that backwards all these years? Research required.

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    I thought each degree of dwell changed the timing two degrees. Have I had that backwards all these years? Research required.

    Leave a comment:


  • MPallock
    replied
    Jeff:

    what you said makes a lot of sense. I will check this out today out get back to the forum. Thanks:

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    That is [u][u]NOT</u></u> the correct way to time the engine, and can cause the symptom you describe.
    Get a manual, and do it right.
    Your problem will vanish.
    Set the point gap first (for every two degrees you change the dwell, you change the timing one degree.
    Then check the dwell with a meter.
    Then check the timing.
    Otherwise you are just chasing your tail.
    Basics....Get back to the basics.
    It is a simple machine, with simple requirements.
    Almost all Stude problems are simple, and have simple fixes.
    Jeff[8D]



    quote:Originally posted by MPallock

    Thanks for the info. I am going to check for the vaccuum leaks. Jason set it at the timingmark that makes the engine runs the fastest.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • MPallock
    replied
    By the way he also re used the base gasket between the carb and the intake manifold. This might be an issue. I will pull it off and check it.

    Thank You: Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • MPallock
    replied
    Thanks for the info. I am going to check for the vaccuum leaks. Jason set it at the timingmark that makes the engine runs the fastest.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • Bud
    replied
    It sounds like you could have an air leak either at the base of the carb or a manifold port or a gasket in the carb could either be defective or the wrong one as the rebuild kits for the Srtomberg WW carbs usually have gaskets for several diffrent carbs in them. A piece of dirt in a passage inside the carb will also cause idle problems. The main jets probably aren't the problem as the engine runs well at high speed. Your carb should have #52 main jets in it for the 1 and1/16 inch venturies in the carb. Bud

    Leave a comment:


  • bige
    replied
    Try bringing the idle down as far as you can and check the timing. If it was set when the idle was too high centrifugal advance may have begun and the timing was retarded to compensate. If the idle drops far enough the timing becomes too far retarded and the engine stalls.

    ErnieR


    On its way to a 15.097 Spring 2006.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by MPallock

    Carb was rebuilt by an Orange County Studebaker mechanic.
    If Jason did this recently, and he is still in business, I would have him do it right.

    Then maybe you can trade it to someone with a '53 or '54 for a WW 6-117 from a '57 Commander 259.

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    You simply got lucky on the Edsel. Get the right jets from a 259 carb. You need a 10% increase. I would check for vacuum leaks with a can of Wd40 sprayed around gaskets with the engine running.

    Leave a comment:


  • MPallock
    replied
    Whats the best way to adjust the float level? I am thinking of sending the carb to Pony Carb in New Mexico. They really know there stuff but very expensive. They want $375 to go through the carb and guarantee it. I actually paid this a couple of years ago to have them go through my Holley four barrel for my Edsel. It was worth it. You literally take the carb out of the box and put it back on the car without adjusting anything and the car is perfect. Not sure I want to spent that kind of money again though.

    Leave a comment:


  • MPallock
    replied
    If I warm up the engine and screw the mixture jets in the engine slows down. They are backed out 3 turns now. Idle in park with the engine warmed up is about 750rpm to get it to 550rpm in drive or so it does not stall but that seems awful fast.

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    You're going to need bigger jets for the extra cubes. Also, your engine rpm should go down as the screws go in very far. Try screwing them in and see if it changes. If you can screw the idle mixture screws in all the way without effect, those passages may be blocked. Remove the screws and spray some carb cleaner in there. You could try raising the float level to compensate for the lean jetting, but then you're prone to flooding.

    Leave a comment:


  • mbstude
    replied
    Welcome to the Forum.

    I'm with Biggs. Sounds like your carb needs to be 'dialed in'. The float level could be a little off. Make sure the choke is opening fully at operating temp as well.

    Matthew Burnette
    Hazlehurst, GA

    Leave a comment:

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