Stalling at Idle

[MPallock]

Gentlemen;

So I pulled the 232 V-8 out of my 54 Commander and replaced it with a 55 259. Had the 259 totally redone and engine runs strong. Am using the Bendix 2 barrel off of the 232. Carb was rebuilt. When we put the 259 in we also replaced the fuel pump with an electric one mounted to the frame above the fuel tank so the hose goes up to the pump rather than down as it used to be. Not sure if this is the problem but when the engine is cold it starts fine and runs ok but when it reaches operating temp the car stalls at idle like when I am coming off a freeway off ramp coming to a stop, It starts right away but to keep this from happening I have to turn the idle up to about 800 in park so it will be 550rpm in drive and I know this is way to fast as it really slams into gear. This is either a carb problem or the fuel pump is wrong. I checked the fuel pressure at the carb and it is 5.5 psi. I put a regulator on it and set it to 4.5psi but this made no difference. I am thinking of replacing the carb or going back to the mechanical pump or am I way off base. Your thoughts would be helpful.

Thank You: Mark

[Tom Bredehoft]

Idling at 550 in drive is the recommended rpm. Hmmm, hope someone can be more help than I.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
(Under Construction 573 hrs.)
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[Roscomacaw]

There are so many things we CAN'T see. But from what you're telling us, I'd say there's no problem with the supply of fuel. I'd think it was in the carb itself. If there was a problem with anything in the system that pumps the fuel to the carb, it wouldn't be able to go out on the freeway.

"Carb was rebuilt" - by whom???

Was it ever adjusted properly with the engine warmed? Not asking about the idle adjustment you talked about, but the two bleed air screws on the base of the carb.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[MPallock]

Carb was rebuilt by an Orange County Studebaker mechanic. Idle screws at the base of the carb do not semm to do much. They are currently set at 3 turns out

[MPallock]

I did not mean idle screw but the two screws at the base of the carb

[mbstude]

Welcome to the Forum.

I'm with Biggs. Sounds like your carb needs to be 'dialed in'. The float level could be a little off. Make sure the choke is opening fully at operating temp as well.

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

[buddymander]

You're going to need bigger jets for the extra cubes. Also, your engine rpm should go down as the screws go in very far. Try screwing them in and see if it changes. If you can screw the idle mixture screws in all the way without effect, those passages may be blocked. Remove the screws and spray some carb cleaner in there. You could try raising the float level to compensate for the lean jetting, but then you're prone to flooding.

[MPallock]

If I warm up the engine and screw the mixture jets in the engine slows down. They are backed out 3 turns now. Idle in park with the engine warmed up is about 750rpm to get it to 550rpm in drive or so it does not stall but that seems awful fast.

[MPallock]

Whats the best way to adjust the float level? I am thinking of sending the carb to Pony Carb in New Mexico. They really know there stuff but very expensive. They want $375 to go through the carb and guarantee it. I actually paid this a couple of years ago to have them go through my Holley four barrel for my Edsel. It was worth it. You literally take the carb out of the box and put it back on the car without adjusting anything and the car is perfect. Not sure I want to spent that kind of money again though.

[buddymander]

You simply got lucky on the Edsel. Get the right jets from a 259 carb. You need a 10% increase. I would check for vacuum leaks with a can of Wd40 sprayed around gaskets with the engine running.

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by MPallock

Carb was rebuilt by an Orange County Studebaker mechanic.

If Jason did this recently, and he is still in business, I would have him do it right.

Then maybe you can trade it to someone with a '53 or '54 for a WW 6-117 from a '57 Commander 259.

[bige]

Try bringing the idle down as far as you can and check the timing. If it was set when the idle was too high centrifugal advance may have begun and the timing was retarded to compensate. If the idle drops far enough the timing becomes too far retarded and the engine stalls.

ErnieR


On its way to a 15.097 Spring 2006.

[Bud]

It sounds like you could have an air leak either at the base of the carb or a manifold port or a gasket in the carb could either be defective or the wrong one as the rebuild kits for the Srtomberg WW carbs usually have gaskets for several diffrent carbs in them. A piece of dirt in a passage inside the carb will also cause idle problems. The main jets probably aren't the problem as the engine runs well at high speed. Your carb should have #52 main jets in it for the 1 and1/16 inch venturies in the carb. Bud

[MPallock]

Thanks for the info. I am going to check for the vaccuum leaks. Jason set it at the timingmark that makes the engine runs the fastest.

Mark

[MPallock]

By the way he also re used the base gasket between the carb and the intake manifold. This might be an issue. I will pull it off and check it.

Thank You: Mark