1950 Studebaker Solonoid

[Jimmie]

A couple of days ago after putting new lines to the vacuum advance, oil pressure gage, and oil filter I decided to test for leaks prior to putting the engine back into the car. I found that the solonoid did not work. I simply jumped over it and ran a wire for the points and it started after it received enough gasoline and ran pretty good after sitting for nearly two years on the home made stand.

Back to the solonoid. I called a few of the parts stores in the area and prices for a 6V solonoid ranged from $28 on up. Then it occurred to me that before my Ford tractor was changed over to 12V that it used a 6V solonoid. I called one of the local farm supply stores and picked one up for $8. Everything matches except it sits 90 degrees different from the original so I had to make a longer copper piece (bar, strip, or whatever it is called) to run from the post opposite the battery hook-up on the solonoid to the top of the starter. Just thought I would pass this on as it might be helpful for others to know my source. The package says it is for an 8N-1947-52.

Jimmie
Orleans, Indiana


1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

[Roscomacaw]

Ya hafta be cautious with the 6V solenoids. There's two types. One requires power to the smaller terminal to operate it and one requires a ground to the little terminal to operate it.
In the case of the one you bypassed, did you put POWER to the little terminal or did you provide it with a ground???

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[Jimmie]

I put power to ito the single small post, did that ruin it you think?[:0]
I have not tried the new one yet, how can I tell if it needs power to to the one small post or if it needs to be grounded?[]

Jimmie
Orleans,Indiana

quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Ya hafta be cautious with the 6V solenoids. There's two types. One requires power to the smaller terminal to operate it and one requires a ground to the little terminal to operate it.
In the case of the one you bypassed, did you put POWER to the little terminal or did you provide it with a ground???

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

[StudeRich]

Looks like you need to ask a Ford Tractor guy!

Most Studebaker Solenoids get grounded by the dash or floor switch, the Ford maybe not.


StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

[MyStude_Baker]

I know exactly what you mean. I fought with my '51 solenoid for a month. Couldn't figure it out until I realized that I only had one wire going to my neutral safety switch. If the car starts, you're OK. But if you provide power to a six volt pull start, it will heat up. Bad sign. So, you either change the switch as I did, or get the correct Solenoid from Sasco. You need a grounding Solenoid to keep it original. But if driving it is more important then waiting for shipment, pick up a push start at your local parts store.

1951 Commander Land cruiser

[paul v]

Jimmie, its the same only 90 degrees off. The power goes to the large post from the battery's negative terminal. The ground goes to the small post from the starter button. I checked the 1948 ford 8n in the garage and compared it to an extra stude starter from a 50, and it looks to be the same, only the ford solonoid is turned 90 degrees from a studebaker. Let me know how it turns out. Paul


50 champion 2dr sedan

[leyrret]

Most solenoids are (or were)available at NAPA. I have electrical systems buyers guide that has pages with the internal wiring and major applications. It's dated 1998 but they may have a later version. For a 6v, 3 wire, small terminal is grounded through push button number is ST53
and is listed for 51-54 studebaker ,among others. 12v version is ST56. For 6v,3 wire, with internal ground.(hot from switch applied to small
terminal) is #ST58 & ST63. Both are listed for 55 studebaker . Book is old but numbers may be good.