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Low octane cure

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  • Low octane cure

    Couldn't set timing where it belonged, performance-wise, without going to racing fuel or avgas, so I tried the Boost Cooler system from Snow Performance ( http://www.snowperformance.net/ ). Uses a different control switch for normally aspirated motors, after installation I set the advance at 10 deg BTDC and there is no ignition rattle.
    Pictures at http://homepage.mac.com/pdrnec/PhotoAlbum168.html

  • #2
    Thanks for sharing, Pat. Can I ask what your setup cost in the end?[:I]

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      It was around $400

      If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.

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      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by pdrnec
        If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.



        Hey Pat, in looking though the August '90 TW issue on '60 Larks, there is a note in the table that list the production figures by body type...

        "In addition, three car chassis were sold in the U.S. without bodies."

        Two of those must be your Frua Larks...do you know what the third was?




        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA
        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

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        • #5
          There were three prototype Frua Larks, one was destroyed in an accident. Oddly enough, the production orders I got from Mr. Quinn showed that 12 rolling chassis were shipped to Frua, I have no idea what happened to the remaining 9.





          If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.

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          • #6
            As you all know water injection's been around since WW2.

            Back in the mid-70's I made up my own manual water injection out of the windshield washer bottle system with different home made "jets".

            Since water "doesn't" burn...(it WILL actually put the flame out), so I got some methanol and started mixing. While "any amount" helps....all the way to 100% in the bottle will give a seat of the pants positive feel.

            My little POS car had a little help in the power department.

            Another very positive benefit...the ports, valves, chambers, piston tops, et al...stay clean!

            Mike

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            • #7
              Is alcohol a problem in the 'rust' department? Sounds like a real power boooooster,alcohol and Water.

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              • #8
                I don't like water in my alcohol, except maybe a bit of ice and a slice of lime.

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                • #9
                  PDRNEC; I have to laugh at your handle, I have no idea what it means but it reminds me of a Trans.Dial gone wrong!![}] The "E" and "C" must be for "Execute" and "Charge" ! [^]

                  StudeRich
                  Studebakers Northwest
                  Ferndale, WA
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                  • #10
                    For years tractor pullers made a very simple water injector. They had a tank with one hose plumbed to the low pressure side of the turbo or intake (with an adjustable valve to control the flow) and another to the pressure side. That way, the higher the boost, the more presure there was in the tank to push water into the intake. These were boys running 150-200 pounds of boost. 200 pounds of boost seems unreal, that's 13.5 atmospheres! Let's see, take a 289 and 200# boost and theoretically it would crank out 3,000hp. How's that for a grocery getter?

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                    • #11
                      Hi, John,

                      That level of boost also destroys about half the engines that try it in one run. I have seen 3/4" head studs pulled right out of the bottom of a heavy iron block, other blocks pulled in two pieces, crankshafts blown out the bottom of cross-bolted iron blocks. The level of mechanical stress in tractor pull engines is greater than in any other form of motor sports. They break more parts than top fuel dragsters.

                      Some of them are running 1/2" diameter pushrods which look like a section of a pry bar. The cylinder pressures are so high, it is almost impossible to open the exhaust valve.

                      thnx, jv

                      PackardV8
                      PackardV8

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                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

                        PDRNEC; I have to laugh at your handle, I have no idea what it means but it reminds me of a Trans.Dial gone wrong!![}] The "E" and "C" must be for "Execute" and "Charge" ! [^]

                        StudeRich
                        Studebakers Northwest
                        Ferndale, WA
                        Yeah, well - my people came from what is now the Czech Republic, it's a very poor country and they could only afford one vowel.


                        Pat Drnec

                        If there's anything more important than my ego running around I want it caught and shot now.

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                        • #13
                          jv, one guy I work with used to pull tractors. I guess more than once he sent an injector into orbit like a roman candle. I remember when tractor pulls were ordinary farm tractors just brought in out of the field. I guess it's definately a sport of kings these days.

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                          • #14
                            Last year we put a water injection kit on our '58 pickup. Couldn't really tell a difference and it sucked water like crazy. Every time you turned around it was out of water. We used it for towing and when we bought a diesel the truck never left the yard again. I do think that the engine needs to be tuned better. It used to ping really bad so we tried some avgas and it ran beautiful, but at $3.80/gal it wasn't practical. I think the water/alcohol injection works but it takes money and the time to tinker around with it.

                            Jake

                            -Home of John Studebaker-
                            http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4

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                            • #15
                              If a person isn't having tremendously serious problems with detonation, a richer mixture will help cool things down. Where as a normally aspirated engine shouldn't run much less than a 14:1 ratio, forced induction engines will often do ok with something like 12:1. The extra fuel vaporizing helps cool the intake charge. Not the most economical way to go, but if you're into boost you're probably not concerned about gas mileage anyway. Besides, it'd take a lot of lost fuel mileage to make up for a set of fried pistons, burned rings and scored cylinder walls.

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