Ignition Wires

[bondobilly]

I think my ignition wires were crossed. I know the firing order etc., but how do I check which wire goes to which terminal on the distributor. Another words, where is #1 etc. Can't find anything in the service manual.

Thanks

Owner of Carbon Foot Print, formally known as the HFH

[StudeRich]

Well I am not finding the Dist. rotation on the 56J, most Studebakers are Counter-clockwise but I don't know about a Packard, if the Dist. is mounted to the right of center on the Engine it will be Clockwise, and you could always watch it turn using a remote starter switch.

Anyway the Shop Manual says the Firing Order is: 1,8,4,3,6,,5,7,2 just like a Stude. so even though there is a preferred location in the cap not shown, it does not matter which Cap tower you use as long as you put #1 on #1 Plug and go from there around the proper direction on the cap. But you will of course, have to be sure the Rotor is on number one, when the engine is ready to fire same by checking timing mark, both valves closed and #1 piston at TDC.

Most Tune-Up equipment Manuals and some Repair Manuals show the Dist. Cap clip location vs the Cly. #'s and the Engine, but I don't see it in the '56 Stude. Shop Manual, number one is usually close to straight forward.


StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

[bondobilly]

quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

Well I am not finding the Dist. rotation on the 56J, most Studebakers are Counter-clockwise but I don't know about a Packard, if the Dist. is mounted to the right of center on the Engine it will be Clockwise,

I really thought I was going crazy. I was looking for a diagram of the distributor with each connector labeled as to what cylinder it goes to.

But if you can't find it, then I am not as nuts as everyone thinks I am.

Thanks
BG

Owner of Carbon Foot Print, formally known as the HFH

[Mike]

There's a page of "Ignition Specifications" at the ""56 J Only " site: http://1956goldenhawk.com/ . Click "Options", then "Ignition Specifications".
Distributor turns "CC", counter clockwise. Cylinders are numbered front to rear, odd on drivers side & even on passengers side. Order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2.
Mike M.

[bondobilly]

quote:Originally posted by Mike

There's a page of "Ignition Specifications" at the ""56 J Only " site: http://1956goldenhawk.com/ . Click "Options", then "Ignition Specifications".
Distributor turns "CC", counter clockwise. Cylinders are numbered front to rear, odd on drivers side & even on passengers side. Order is 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2.
Mike M.

Thanks, how do I determine which hole in the distributor gets which cable? I believe that two are in the wrong position, 2 and 6.

Thanks again

[studegary]

Just follow them around, in the firing order, in a counter-clockwise direction.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[Mike]

quote:Originally posted by bondobilly

Thanks, how do I determine which hole in the distributor gets which cable? I believe that two are in the wrong position, 2 and 6.

Thanks again

[/quote]

Make sure "2" is between "7" & "1".
"6" is between "3" & "5".
Mike M.

[bondobilly]

[/quote]

Make sure "2" is between "7" & "1".
"6" is between "3" & "5".
Mike M.
[/quote]

Wires are in the righ places. Now I have a question. It is DUMB, but a question. I have never replaced the ignition wires since I restored the car in 1989/91. I have a new set ready to go in. Now, is it true that if wires touch each other you can get a miss fire? Not replacing them was not out of being frugal, nobody whoever tuned up the car ever suggested doing so. The only reason I got a new set, was the wires in there now are way too long and are not "neat". The wires I got are cut to the correct length.

[mbstude]

Billy, I've got wires touching each other on my 259 with no problem. I'd think that if the wire insulation is good (should be with a new set), there'd be no issues. Just be sure to replace them one by one so you don't cross 'em up.

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

[fmarshall]

quote:Originally posted by bondobilly

Make sure "2" is between "7" & "1".
"6" is between "3" & "5".
Mike M.
[/quote]

Wires are in the righ places. Now I have a question. It is DUMB, but a question. I have never replaced the ignition wires since I restored the car in 1989/91. I have a new set ready to go in. Now, is it true that if wires touch each other you can get a miss fire? Not replacing them was not out of being frugal, nobody whoever tuned up the car ever suggested doing so. The only reason I got a new set, was the wires in there now are way too long and are not "neat". The wires I got are cut to the correct length.
[/quote]
If the insulation is good, you shouldn't have a problem.
Having said that, there is a reason with even new wires and everything hooked up correctly, that you could get a miss. Cylinders 5 & 7 are on the same side of the engine AND they fire one after the other (1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2). And as a result, the wires need to be, at some point, at right angles to each other. If not, you can get a miss that will not be easy to isolate.

========================
63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA

[Chucks Stude]

Billy,
Replace one wire at a time. This keeps you from crossing any wires. Are you sure that the wires are completely inserted into the distributor cap, and on the spark plugs? Usually, the number one spark plug equates to the front hole in the distributor. The way to check that, is to set the timing mark at TDC, and see which hole the rotor is pointing at. It is possible to set one of these things 180 degrees out, since the crankshaft goes around twice, compared to the distributor. So at TDC, the rotor will either be pointing at #1, or at #6. After spotting #1, just follow the firing order around counter-clockwise, and you should be good to go.

[bondobilly]

Found out what we thought was a mis-fire is not. The guy who just rebuilt my carb showed me that the gizmos on the left side of the carb were not hooked up properly and I had no "secondaries". SO when I would try and accelerate under certain circumsatnces the car would falter and shake.

Now with the secondaries working (still don't know what they are) the car really moves out, goes through turns at speed, and more interestingly, the Ultramatic transmission is as smooth as silk.

No joke, I have been driving all these years with half a carb.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Bill,
Your wires can touch and it won't hurt a thing.
What you don't want to do is have your wires laying parallel to one another over any length of distance.
What can happen then is called inductive misfire.
The magnetic field crated by the ignition pulse from one wire can be picked up by a parallel wire and actually spark that plug too.
It is usually only a problem if it is on a cylinder that is on the intake stroke where raw fuel is present, but hasn't been fired.
That's why on Studes they tell you to have the two specific wires cross at 90 degree angles.
The stock Stude wire loom clips actually hold the wires in a less than optimal position.
HTIH
Jeff[8D]



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