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Tapered Axle pulling Questions

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  • Tapered Axle pulling Questions

    All right,
    I read through the Service manual and on my 1949 Champion I need to replace the Inner Axle seal "behind the bearing". It says one you get the axle stripped to the bearing to use a puller and just pull the axle out? It says nothing about removing the Diff cover ect. Is this right? Can I just pop the axle shaft out without removing the diff cover and doing anything inside the diff? Isn't there a washer on the axle shaft inside the diff housing? When I look at SI's catalog to order the seals there is a thrust washer on the gear side of the axle.

    Wait, ok the Gear assemblies are inside the carrier right? So the axle gears are held in place by the carrier so the axle can come out with out issues?

    I sure wish I wouldn't had gotten ahead of my self and painted the axle dang it!

  • #2
    The axle shafts should come out pretty easily - no need to remove the cover.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1963 Cruiser
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President two door

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


    • #3
      It's not a Chevrolet with those nasty C-clip axles! They simply pull straight out. If it were a later model with Twin Traction, there is a thrust block that might be dislodged from the center section upon removal of the axle, but not so on a '49. The pumpkin cover need not come off.

      I use a puller to remove the brake drum, then take off the backing plate. Then loosely replace the brake drum (without the key), screw the axle nut on a few turns, and then use the brake drum as an improvised slide hammer against the back side of the nut to pull the axle and bearing race out. Normally, a few gentle whacks will do it. If the axle is stubborn, don't risk damaging the threaded end by repeated pounding this way. Rent a slide hammer with the correct threaded adaptor.

      Once you have replaced seals, and repacked the bearings, you should check axle end play with a dial indicator, and set it to the correct amount by adding or removing shims from the right side assembly. By rights, you should check the end play before you even remove the brake drums; it's actually easier with the brake drums available as "handles". Then if the bearings don't need replacement, you need only remove the necessary amount of shims to bring it back in spec upon replacing the axles. With new bearings, you need to install them, with a few shims, check end play, and adjust the shim pack accordingly.

      The complete procedure can be found in the shop manual, and I recommend you read it first, then have it open an handy while you do the job. It's really quite easy, but you don't want to make a wrong assumption and get the end play wrong.

      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands


      • #4
        Thanks guys that straightens it all out.