Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage:
See more
See less

1961 hawk project

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1961 hawk project

    I just got my 1961 studebaker hawk and have many questions, How do I get the fenders off my car? My cars air deflector is rusted away, does anyone in the Marylad, Virginia area have one? and I need some front fenders with vents does anyone have a pair. I really like this car. I have removed the interior and cleaned up the floor and trunk. I need to do some patching in the floor however there is a company classic enterprize they sell those panels and alot more.
    Studebakers forever!

  • #2
    Years ago I got some patch panels from the outfit you mentioned. They are of heavier gauge metal than the orginal which you'd think is good, but the stuff is so stiff it's a real chore to get any kind of decent fit and finish. It took a LOT of hammer and dolly to make fit.

    On the rear fenders I sandblasted the bad spots and layed fiberglass over the holes. If I were doing it again, I'd make more of an effort to go the fiberglass route before taking the patch panel path. What would be great would be to find some place that can dunk the fenders in the chemical baths to get rid of the rust.


    • #3
      Buy a shop manual, it'll list all the bolts it the cowl, inner fender and air deflector. I always pull the clip as a assembly. Good used air deflectors sell in the $350 range, fenders, maybe $500-$700 each.

      Arnold Md.
      Studebaker On The Net
      My Ebay Items

      64 GT hawk
      63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
      63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
      63 Avanti R1
      63 Daytona convert
      63 Lark 2 door
      63 Lark 2 door #2
      62 Lark 2 door
      60 Hawk
      59 3E truck
      52 Starliner
      51 Commander

      JDP Maryland


      • #4
        I have all three manuals the body, chasis and the thick shop manual. After reading these I still don't see how to remove the front clip . If just had a count of how many bolts there were to remove the clip I could do it easy.When it comes to patch panels , I see your point about thickness however shaping them is nessasary and grinding the edge is a must.Did anyone take picks of a quater panel on a hawk removed?
        Studebakers forever!


        • #5
          No offense, but fiberglass is a low-quality repair; only way to do it correctly is metal replacement.

          Fiberglass would be good for a temporary repair, or to slap together a cheap driver; but if you're trying to do a proper repair, it has to be metal!

          Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
          Parish, central NY 13131


          • #6
            The new classic panels for the 63 Cruiser were pretty well made and very close to the orginal floor pans, but not perfect. I cut and used only the portions needed to get to good orginal metal. I would recomend them. I did find out that the body to frame brackets they make were taller than the orginal ones by 1/2". The new rocker panels were nice as well.
            64 Champ long bed V8
            55/53 Studebaker President S/R
            53 Hudson Super Wasp Coupe


            • #7
              Yes I agree as I am learning to weld all the repairs I do will be metal as far as finishing on the exterior I will use the metal to metal from Eastwood co.. for smoothing and finishing. cutting the patch panels will be a diffecult what would you recommend for cutting?

              Studes forever!
              Studebakers forever!


              • #8
                Wow! It looks like the last time there are actually photos of C-K front fender removal is in the 1953 shop manual!
                Step-by-step procedure is written on page 45 of your 1959-64 shop manual.

                [img] [/img]
                Dwain G.


                • #9
                  That would be page 45 of the Group IV section.

                  Basically, remove all the wiring and any hoses that might be clamped to the inner fender panels. Undo the vent ducts inside the rear of the fenders and undo the bolts that hold the front inner fenders to the frame (there'll be a stack of wahsers there that you'll wanna keep track of as they will afford proper alignment when the fenders go back on!) as well as the bolts that hold the radiator saddle to the frame (radiator should be removed already as well as the front bumper and it's brackets)
                  Assuming the hood's already off, there's 3 bolts holding the rear of the inner fenders to the lips on the firewall - there's 3 or 4 bolts holding the rear edge of the outer fender to the front of the A-pillars. There's also a little brace from the lower rear edge of the fender to the firewall and there may or may not be a bolt at the bottom, just ahead of the rocker panel end.
                  Once all these are removed, the clip might resist coming loose as the rubber gaskets between the outer fenders and the A-pillars will be stuck from years of being bolted together.
                  You'll need AT LEAST one other set of hands to pull this clip with any degree of ease. Two sets of hands would be nicer.

                  Miscreant adrift in
                  the BerStuda Triangle

                  1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                  1960 Larkvertible V8
                  1958 Provincial wagon
                  1953 Commander coupe

                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.


                  • #10
                    When it comes to cutting sheet metal for patches and such, I like a nibbler (mine's air). They aren't the fasted thing in the world but they don't distort the metal like a saw or tin snips. Air nibblers are really pretty inexpensive for the Asian things. I know that Chinese stuff isn't very prestegious, but my 20+ year old made in Taiwan job has cut plenty and is already to cut plenty more. Speaking of Chinese stuff, there's plenty of professional paint shops that buy the cheap Chinese paint guns for $25, use them on a job and toss them rather than go to the effort of cleaning them.


                    • #11
                      Thanks everyone, I will review the page now I have a good idea what to look for thanks.once I remove the clip removing the motor will be a snap. Is there anything I should know about that removal?

                      Studes forever!
                      Studebakers forever!


                      • #12
                        Here are some photos of the rear quarters removed from my 61 Hawk. If you need any more photos I have a bunch.

                        With Quarter Panel removed

                        With Fin removed

                        Wayen K.
                        Libby, MT
                        61 Hawk (Project)


                        • #13
                          Those pic's are great, if you have more I would like to seer them. I also see the little studs on the inside of the trunk, I am glad that you posted. Please send more thanks!

                          Studes forever!
                          Studebakers forever!


                          • #14
                            Here are a few more pics of the rear quarters. I really don't have any of the inside of the trunk. if you need some I can get them tomorrow. The body is currently on a rotator so it's easy to get at.

                            Passenger side View

                            Rear section of drivers side

                            Front section of drivers side

                            Sorry the other images were so small, I missed a step in the posting instructions[:I]

                            Wayen K.
                            Libby, MT
                            61 Hawk (Project)