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accelerator pumps

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  • accelerator pumps

    How important are they? The one in my '62 Daytona V8, 2bl, had to be pulled because it was shot. The car still performs pretty well, but is impossible to start without directly feeding the carb throat. Does the pump also help atomize the fuel when you pump the pedal before a start?
    Also, how do I identify which v8 I have?

  • #2
    You need an accelerator pump. That is also your 'passing gear'. It's not the engine that matters as much as the carb model. The number should be stamped on the upper body of the carb. It's that number you need.

    Aslo make sure that the pump is alcohol resistant. Most pump gas has 10% ethanol and may soon have 15%.

    Tom - Mulberry, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

    Tom - Bradenton, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD


    • #3
      This Engine I.D. info is from the SDC Main Page, "Tech. Tips and data" link and then the link: "UPDATED Studebaker V-8 Engine Identification".

      Be sure you look at the STAMPED INTO the block numbers and letters on the drivers' side front corner, top of block. If you are interested to know if you have the 259, or the optional on non-Cruisers or Hawks, 210 or 225 HP 289 Engine.

      If the Carb is an original '62, you should have a Stromberg WW 2 Brl. model 6-127, 6-127A, 6-128, or 6-128A but all 6-1XX will work.
      Usually most of us Studebaker Vendors at sell the accelerator pump included in the Repair Kit.

      StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        bails -

        It's "not" a passing gear...but it is needed if you want the carburetor/engine to work correctly.
        You CAN......."discise" the action of the way it works...but to work properly, you need the pump.

        The main jet feeds the engine fuel as you drive down the road. There are two paths that the fuel takes to get to the manifold/engine.

        Now...when you hit the gas hard, the butterflies open quickly. The main jet cannot keep up with the proper fuel delivery when the butterflies open in comes the "accelerator" better fill that fuel void.
        Doing just that...feeding a more proper amount of fuel to the engine until the main jet can catch up with the new air/fuel demand.

        If you just push the pedal "slowly" and the idle circuts are very may be able to sneak by...but the milage will suffer...and at the moment when you may NEED the acceleration...the engine wont be there to help you..!!

        Best to just fix it to work the way it was intended.



        • #5
          Thanks everyone. After I posted this morning I went outside and put the damaged accelerator pump back in. No easy feat because the pivotal arm for the pump was practically frozen on its pivot and who would have thunk that the pivot screw is REVERSED thread!? I almost sheared it off trying to tap it around before I thought, Hey, try the other way. Bingo. Backed right out. What is the thinking on that design?
          I am still getting oil in my air filter assembly from the oil filler lead. I did try hooking the line from the carburetor to the PVC outlet behind the carb hoping that it would relieve the pressure to the oil filler tube, but no luck. The oil is still collecting in the air filter assembly.
          I did an engine flush and replaced with fresh oil and a Napa gold filter. Oil sure is pretty and clean after only 10 miles, but that was enough to put that nice new oil in the air filter.
          I'm still running the car without a hood and I replaced the oil cap with an old one that doesn't feed the air filter. I'll see if I can see any oil coming out of it before gravity takes it back to the motor proper. Oh boy, another test run.