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  • Gas Tank repair

    Well I 've read all the posts about this- I'm trying to avoid shipping the tank to a Renu dealer (none in this state).

    So my options are radiator shop- is this one too holey for them?

    Or fix it myself. I was going to braze the holes closed, until I realized how many there were. Now I'm thinking of the POR 15/ fiberglass cloth method- has anyone tried this?

    Or some type of epoxy putty.

    Ideas? Hawk gas tanks lying around?

    Gallivan
    57 Golden Hawk
    Golden, CO
    Gallivan
    57 Golden Hawk
    Golden, CO

  • #2
    I used Bill Hirsh tank sealent on the inside of the tank on my Hawk and used JB Weld on the outside. That was a year ago and so far no leaks. I had the inside flushed out first. Also my tank had only a few small pin holes all in one area. IMHO this tank is too far gone for repairing.

    Jim Barker
    '60' Hawk
    Jim Barker
    '70' Avanti II

    Comment


    • #3
      A radiator shop with experience and attitude can fix this.

      Brad

      Looks like the major opinion is to sell the tank for scrap...

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by bradnree

        A radiator shop with experience and attitude can fix this.

        Brad
        They probably can, but I'd find another. If it has THAT many holes, it is weak in many other parts that are not YET holes.

        I have a non holed one here if that is from a C/K.

        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

        Comment


        • #5
          Galivan

          As I look at the extent of the rust, I'll bet you are only seeing a fraction of the potential carnage. It's rusted both in the low spots (beads) and the tank proper over a wide area.

          To me this means that a substantial portion of the tank bottom is compromised. A JB weld/sealer patch may work but I'll bet it leads failure down the road.

          If you are willing to have JB weld patch show on the bottom of the tank them I'll bet a sheet metal patch should be acceptable.

          Take it to a good weld/radiator/tank shop (chose any of above) have them cut the swiss cheese out of it and weld in a new section. It will be safe because it's open and easy to flush.

          Anything short of that is merely buying time.

          I would not have that tank on my car until it was solid steel or replaced by a better one.

          IMHO

          Bob

          Comment


          • #6
            Dick, if you're willing to sell and ship yours, I think I will go that route, after seeing the majority opininion.

            My email on this site is not viable anymore, and can't be corrected, but my new email is
            mikeg4@q.com
            if you could email me the details. My zip code is 80403 (Colorado)

            Gallivan
            57 Golden Hawk
            Golden, CO
            Gallivan
            57 Golden Hawk
            Golden, CO

            Comment


            • #7
              That sounds like the best idea, that tank would take a lot of fixing and there is no telling if it would stay fixed.

              Jeff DeWitt
              http://carolinastudes.net
              Jeff DeWitt
              http://carolinastudes.net

              Comment


              • #8
                Yes- unfortunately, that is the bottom side, so the repairs would have to bear a lot of weight

                Gallivan
                57 Golden Hawk
                Golden, CO
                Gallivan
                57 Golden Hawk
                Golden, CO

                Comment


                • #9
                  Do yourself, and your Stude a big favor...
                  Ditch that tank and find another[xx(]...
                  Here's one that has the leaks...on top![:0][B)]


                  This started out as 'one' leak on top....
                  Jostling it around caused (found[V])the rest of the leaks...
                  BTDT..
                  Jeff[8D]




                  http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
                  HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                  Jeff


                  Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                  Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'd find another tank, that bad boy is trouble looking for a place to happen! After spending weeks un-gunking a 57 Retractable tank, welding numerous holes and sealing somebody started repoping the tank. $325, money well spent! Nothing more agrivating then heat and fuel problems and they always happen on the way to some place, never on the way home.....

                    Bill, Many Fords and one great Stude!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Let me put it in this context. I had a fuel leak spring on the fuel sender gasket on the Lark while I was out. Okay, with a fuel sender leak you have a good chance you might be able to hang on to almost all of your fuel until you can get it fixed. I managed to repair it, but I couldn't top the tank off, it would just run out the sender. Another time I had also had a mounting bracket that is welded to the side of the tank also let loose. In this case there was a chance to retain about half of my fuel until I could get it fixed. It's no fun having to be able to fill a tank halfway, because it means that many more trips to the fuel pump. What was even worse was the latter just let loose out of nowhere, while I was on a job interview and the Lark was parked in the parking lot!! Either way when a fuel leak erupts it can become a much more expensive proposition to fill a vehicle as the fuel you filled the tank with is now slowly leaving the tank, which could equal more runs to the pump. I know the holes are in the top and bottoms of the tank which are the worst, but stay with me on this, lol. If a person were to fix a tank, there had better be a good solid plug(s) in there because there may be a high probability that the repair might not hold. If it doesn't it might make for an embarrassing scene in the show parking lot. I'd say I'd strongly recommend finding another tank, or if it's getting resealed, good luck with the tank in that respect.

                      I would be inclined to hang on to the tank though. Last I remember, and this was 10 years ago, when we dealt with our '55, a good C/K tank was getting pretty hard to find.....

                      Needless to say, my next project has me pondering an aluminum fuel cell.... [}]

                      [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000137-1.jpg[/img=left][img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201950%202r5%20Studebaker%20Pickup%20with%20turbocharger/P1000145-1.jpg[/img=left][IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/Ex%20Studebaker%20Plant%20Locomotive/P1000578-1.jpg[/IMG=right]
                      [IMG=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/My%201964%20Studebaker%20Commander%20R2/P1010168.jpg[/IMG=right]

                      1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                      1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                      1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                      1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hello again
                        I operate Studebakers Only and am also the Gas Tank RENU agent for the state of AZ. There are over fifty agencies around the world so you can find one near you via www.gastankrenu.com. Every tank pictured in this topic can be fixed and will carry a lifetime warranty after doing so. Any cold treatment will not last. They inherently just cover up the rust but the OXIDE in iron oxide continues to feed on itself underneath that nice new finish that looks so pretty. We clean to bare white metal eg NO RUST IS LEFT anywhere on or in the tank then coat with a baked on PVC that will not leak.
                        Give us a try for the very best fix possible.
                        Regards
                        Ken Michael

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          DEEPNHOCK I CAN FIX THAT TANK AND MAKE IT LOOK LIKE NEW AND HOLD FUEL LIKE NEW.
                          Regards
                          Ken Michael

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Do not braze gas tanks. The sloshing gas inside creates just enough vibration to cause cracks to form. Instead we do solder and/or TIG/MIG welds at Gas Tank RENU shops.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I am sure that you could.
                              Are you buying cores?
                              Jeff[8D]



                              quote:Originally posted by Kenmike2

                              DEEPNHOCK I CAN FIX THAT TANK AND MAKE IT LOOK LIKE NEW AND HOLD FUEL LIKE NEW.
                              HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                              Jeff


                              Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                              Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                              Comment

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