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Heavy Hawk hood. Why.

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  • #16
    You can also get all the manuals on a CD from Studebaker International mail order.- Jim

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    • #17
      would it help to get stiffer springs?

      Make sure that you get the stiffeners and install them... Wise investment.

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      • #18
        Two more suggestions concerning Hawk hoods: When working on the engine, cut an "X" in a tennis ball big enough to be able to push it over the conical latch. Then count the number of times you hit your head on a tennis ball instead of that huge, hard, sharp latch! You will be glad you did.
        Also, when working under the hood for an extended time as I did while attempting to get good oil pressure on a rebuilt engine, place a 2" x 2" piece of wood between each front corner of the hood and the radiator mount area. This will take most of the load off the metal rod holding this very heavy hood and relieve the loads on the hinges. More importantly, it's a whole lot safer.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
          would it help to get stiffer springs?

          Make sure that you get the stiffeners and install them... Wise investment.


          I spent about $60 on many different sets of heavier springs and none of them (even the strongest) didn't seem to make any difference. It's simply a poor design, the hood is very long and heavy and it pivots from the rear edge so all the weight is on the very front where the hood latch is located. I've moved my radiator further towards the rear and I think I have enough room for a strut rod like the ones used on modern hoods and SUV rear doors.
          I have found that if you open the hood slightly then lean back as you pull the hood open it's a little easier to open because the hood wants to move forward as it opens. I guess back in the "old days" men were men and women were also stronger so the hood probably used to seem lighter????


          Treblig

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          • #20
            Originally posted by parky View Post
            This is terrific. My simple question has resulted in knowing more than I ever thought I'd know about Hawk hoods. Don't stop now. Someday I'll get smart.
            Thanks for all the valuable info.
            Bob
            check this out - http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...t+opening+hood

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            • #21
              My 54 hood is heavy too.
              Mostly because there's most of a 55 hood welded to the top of the 54 hood on my wagon..!

              Mike

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              • #22
                As heavy as these hoods are it is amazing how quickly they can blow over at highway driving speed. If the primary hood latch is not properly secured air entering the engine compartment can and will cause it to lift. The secondary latch is not capable of holding against the air pressure indefinably, and the results can be catastrophic. The last thing that you need to do after you close your hood is to take hold of the front lip of the hood, and lift. If it is not properly latched it will immediately jump out of the primary latch mechanism. Many of us C/K owners use a heavy leather belt or chain, like a bicycle-lock chain between the front support bar and a staid body support. It's a pain but the possible alternative is not good!

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                • #23
                  My dad has a '53 Starlight, and every time he opens the hood on my GT, he gripes about how much heavier the hood is than his. The later hood has The grill assembly mounted on it making it considerably heavier than the original.

                  When I open the hood on the GT, I just lift it enough to clear the latch, then pull forward on it as I lift. To close it I lower it to about 6" open then let it fall back toward the cowl as I set the front down, then click the latch closed. If I don't do it this way, the center of the rear edge will sometimes catch the edge of the cowl, It gets even worse if the weather strip gets compressed and doesn't hold the hood up flush with the cowl. I think this is usually how the corners of the hoods get bent. I added a few solid rubber blocks to the screws for the weather strip so the hood can't drop too low and it can't clip the cowl anymore.

                  I'm not sure about you guys, but upon opening the hood of my GT the second time, I decided something had to change. The secondary "safety" latch is a great idea, but reaching the lever to release it is difficult and a huge pain. I made an extension to the lever for the release, that extends forward fitting between the bottom of the grill and the filler panel. It sits behind the bumper so it's not noticeable, but makes opening the hood far easier. I also very rarely hit my head on the latch or grill, and I'm 6 ft tall. It doesn't work on the Starlight because the hood will open to the extent of hinge travel and the strut rod is long enough to hold it there stock, but for the GT I made an extension for the strut rod to hold the hood open to the extent of hinge travel. I can't imagine working on the engine with just the stock rod. The hood is only barely high enough to check the oil.

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                  • #24
                    Yes, it's a bad design. I've gotten to the point where if people want to see the engine I ask them to help me lift it. It should have been front hinged.
                    peter lee

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                    • #25
                      If you feel it's to heavy to lift just convert it to front hinged and lift it from the rear. It's been done.

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                      • #26
                        Heavier springs would probably make it harder to lift.Just look at the way they pull DOWN,not up.
                        Last edited by 52hawk; 07-09-2016, 10:30 AM. Reason: spelling
                        Oglesby,Il.

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                        • #27
                          Here's one guy's answer:
                          http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...ont+hinge+hood
                          Mike Davis
                          Regional Manager, North Carolina
                          1964 Champ 8E7-122 "Stuey"

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