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hood spring configuration??

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  • hood spring configuration??

    My resto is almost finished. I'm wondering how to connect the 4 front hood springs. Where do they go????

    gcarr

  • #2
    oh, its a 57 silver hawk, 289....

    gcarr

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    • #3
      The smaller springs go from the hole in the front arm of the hood hinge- to a small "tab" stamped into the sheet metal of the inner fender.
      The larger ones go from the "hook" on the rear hinge arm.. down through the hole in the inner fender- and to a bracket on the inside of the wheel tub.

      I'll see If I can drum up a photo...it's not a real photogenic area..LOL

      Ray


      Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
      Ray

      www.raylinrestoration.com
      Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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      • #4
        What I'd like to know is what the heck are the springs FOR on a Studebaker, anyway? They seem to be there only too add some resistance when opening the flimsy hood--making it seem more substantial than it really is, perhaps? I dunno--but I'll bet you could leave them out and it wouldn't really matter at all! Unless I'm missing something . . .

        Everyone complains about how heavy Stude hoods are, but are they really? Isn't it just that the hinge system is really, really strange with four springs that do NOTHING to couterbalance the hood?

        All I know is that we had the hoods of my '56 Champion and a '57 Ford sedan side by side at the body shop a while back and I'll bet you $100 the Ford hood was at least 15 lbs heavier while being about the same overall size. . .

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        • #5
          Those front springs are supposed to pull it forward, when they get weak and the hinges get rusty thats when all those hoods get the corners bent. You need to pull forward on the hood as you lift it to help it up. I may have to make another run of those Stainless springs.

          101st Airborne Div. 326 Engineers Ft Campbell Ky.

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          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by clonelark

            Those front springs are supposed to pull it forward, when they get weak and the hinges get rusty thats when all those hoods get the corners bent. You need to pull forward on the hood as you lift it to help it up. I may have to make another run of those Stainless springs.

            Stainless springs? Good idea! Have any for a '56 sedan?

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            • #7
              Do you have one you could send me. I have retired and dont make springs anymore, but maybe i could make 1 set when i have time.( presently installing another shower in my recently finished bathroom)

              101st Airborne Div. 326 Engineers Ft Campbell Ky.

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              • #8
                I don't know for sure about the Ford hood you compared with but a lot of the 50-60's brand x cars had die stamped under side bracing {possibly contributing to the difference in comparable weights of the Stude vs. Ford}hood. Check your Studebaker trunk lid underside. I remember most GM cars of the 50's-60's having no prop rod as they had a different type of hinge system than Stude. Most were more heavy duty engineered and constructed. The under the hood stamped panel was a perfect mount for the better type self staying open hinge..
                The under top side hood stamping also contributed to the stiffness of mostly flat un-contoured hoods. jimmijim
                {Self staying open hood.} jimmijim
                sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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                • #9
                  I took this photo of a friends '64 GT to help when I install my hood in the near future. It only shows the front spring. Because it is a black car, the photo of the other spring wouldn't show very well.



                  Perry
                  '23 Special Six,
                  '50 Business Champ,
                  '50 Starlight Champ,
                  '60 Lark droptop,
                  '63 GT R1
                  Perry
                  \'50 Business Champion
                  \'50 Starlight Champion
                  \'60 Lark Convertible,
                  \'63 GT R1,
                  \'67 Triumph TR4A

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                  • #10
                    Here is 57 Packard lower spring mounting [img][/img]

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                    • #11
                      Another related fact in service bulletin 327 Aug 1957 gives a part number for a hood reinforcement for 56 and 57 Studebaker and 57 Packard's sedans and wagons which is still available from SASCO part number 1320686 and 1320687 is located on front on hood but any part that makes hood stiffer is good

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                      • #12
                        Thank you sooo much! I'll post some pics soon. It was a 14 month ground up resto to complete factory specs.

                        gcarr

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                        • #13
                          If a car (such as as Hawk) has the springs set up correctly, you don't have to "pull forward" when you open the hood; the springs do that for you.

                          When the springs get weak, break, or go MIA, then you HAVE to pull forward on the hood when opening it, or you get those winged corners.

                          Matthew Burnette
                          Hazlehurst, GA

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                          • #14
                            My car is in finished paint so I don't want that. I also am learning about the 4 loose fitting nuts that have cotter pins in them. I originally thought those nuts should be tight. I was hoping to close the hood by spring but, hmmm, maybe before Summer!

                            gcarr

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