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  • 64V-K7
    replied

    Not to beat a "not-so-dead" horse, nor offend anyone, I looked up the info using shop manuals from 55 to 64. There are TWO ways to polarize your generator depending on what you have. Studebaker used both Autolite and Delco products.

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/polarizing.html




    Bob Johnstone
    www.studebaker-info.org

    64 GT Hawk
    55 President State Sedan
    70 Avanti (R3)

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  • Frank DuVal
    replied
    I'll try to clarify conflicting information you have sen on flashing.

    Studebakers use generators built like everyone else except Ford. Do not listen to advise from Ford people, as it is wrong for the rest of us and could damage the regulator or generator. Ford products are regulated at the main brush connection to the field coil rather than at the grounded end of the field.

    So, for Ford one would flash between the Battery and Field terminals.

    On Studebakers, etc, flash between the Battery and Armature terminals.

    I hope this helps and doesn't add to the confusion.

    Frank DuVal

    Soon a 50 Commander

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  • Frank DuVal
    replied
    And another thing.

    As recently discussed on a Corvair forum, you polarize a generator. You do not polarize a voltage regulator. Yes, you do the polarization at the terminals of the voltage regulator, but that is just for convenience, the electrons are polarizing the generator.




    Frank DuVal

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  • Frank DuVal
    replied
    I know this is old, but for future readers, a hint:

    The field terminal of the generator needs to be grounded for the generator to produce voltage. If you run the generator with the leads disconnected, it will produce just a few volts, as Dell found out.

    Probably the current or voltage regulator contact in the voltage regulator was not grounding the field terminal. So replacing the regulator fixed the problem.

    Note: Ground the field terminal only briefly to test the generator. This is known as "Full Fielding" the generator and runs it as hard as possible. It will overheat if left this way a while.

    Frank DuVal

    Frank DuVal

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  • Chucks Stude
    replied
    Were the points in the voltage regulator free, and were they clean? A fingernail file works well at cleaning the points on a voltage regulator.

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  • wdsj
    replied
    For anyone interested, I replace the voltage regulator and all is fine. I can't see any problem with the old one, but there was one.
    Thanks for all the input.

    Dell
    59 Silver Hawk
    64 GT Hawk

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  • jclary
    replied
    Way to go Dell! It takes a "Real Man" to admit "It was working 'till I fixed it!"
    Are you sure the brushes are making good contact?

    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
    SDC member since 1975

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  • wdsj
    replied
    I did flash the voltage regulator.
    when I said it spun, I meant the generator motors (with belt disconnected) in the correct direction when I flash the regulator. That is how the manual says to poloraze the system.

    But, the generator does not generator voltage. With the voltage regulator disconnected and the engine running, the generator should put out about 30 volts at around 2000 rpms (sound correct?). I measure around 1 volt to ground.

    Maybe I messed up the winding insultation when I took it apart. I have rebuilt dozens and never had one fail (pretty simple procedure). But this one was functioning before I took it apart.

    I don't know what else to check.

    Dell
    59 Silver Hawk
    64 GT Hawk

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  • Studeman
    replied
    Did you polarize the VOLTAGE REGULATOR?
    When I first read your text, you say you polarized it and it spun.. I didn't quite understand that.

    Anyway, take a piece of #16 wire and place it on the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator... then VERY QUICKLY "flash" the other end of the wire across the FIELD terminal. You should get a quick spark. Don't leave it connected- just a real quick flash as fast as you can.



    Ray


    Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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  • wdsj
    replied
    Checked the commutator groves. I can clearly feel the groves. Not a deep grove, but below the level of the copper.
    Checked resistance in all wires to ground. Nothing grounded that should'nt be.

    Runs great as a motor, but 1.8V max as a gen (that is at idle).
    Not a complicated device. I am puzzled.

    I did not have the commutator turned. It was working fine before a took it apart [B)]

    What is the condenser on the A terminal for? No difference in voltage connected or not. It is the original condenser.

    Dell
    59 Silver Hawk
    64 GT Hawk

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  • Chucks Stude
    replied
    What Ray said. Also, look and make sure the brush wires are not grounded to anything.

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  • Studeman
    replied
    Did you cut the mica insulation out of the grooves of the commutator (the copper the brushes run on)? That must be recessed BELOW the level of the copper "bars"... or the brushes just ride on the insulator.
    I use a trimmed-end of a hacksaw blade (and patience) to clean the grooves out.
    If you need a pic... just ask...

    Ray


    Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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  • wdsj
    started a topic Generator wont gen

    Generator wont gen

    Generator was working when I refurbished it. Cleaned it out (CRC cleaner), new brushes, springs and bearing. That's about it. Also painted it.

    Now I measure about 1.7v to ground on both terminals. Polorized it and it spins hard in the right direction.

    measure about 20 ohms to ground on either terminal. 7 ohms terminal to terminal.

    Any suggestions on what to check?

    thanks

    Dell
    59 Silver Hawk
    64 GT Hawk
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