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  • #16
    quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

    Bill,
    At my FLAPS (and other retail outlets) there are PLENTY of "regular" motor oils. In fact, there are far more choices of regular than synthetic or blended. I'm not seeing what you saw.



    I'm no expert, but it the oil you bought is already "blended", blending it with the regular oil already in the car shouldn't hurt. It would be perfectly OK (IMO) to CHANGE the oil and replace it with what you bought.

    Synthetic does seem to do a better job of cleaning the internals of an engine. Some have noticed leaks developing after switching to synthetic. This could be because it cleans all the gunk off of semi failed gasket surfaces that has been plugging holes.
    Dick,

    I was just at the Big Chain Flaps in our area. The "blended" has gone off the shelves, and replaced with regular motor oil. I picked up a bunch of the Valvoline they had, and will use the "blended" only in an emergency or in our modern cars.

    I did find a new style crows foot wrench, the ends can be bent 90 degrees in both directions which makes tightening the oil lines on my Hawk's filter much easier.

    Thanks
    Bill

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    • #17
      quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp
      I had no idea who Bob Olree is or what his qualifications are, so, with my friend Google, I found that he is with the General Motors Powertrain Fuels and Lubricants branch.
      I guess I can stop worrying about finidng Rotella "I".




      Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

      Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
      '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

      Comment


      • #18
        I have a "reverse" motor oil question. That is, I have two five-quart cans of 40 - 50 year old Studebaker 30 weight motor oil. Both cans seep if I turn them right side up. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use this oil in my Studebakers?




        Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

        Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
        '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

        Comment


        • #19
          Standard, blended or synthetic, you can switch back and forth, combine them in the engine, whatever. As long as you have been keeping the engine clean, it won't matter.
          If the engine isn't clean, synthetic seems to loosen gunk better, so watch for signs of trouble and do frequent oil/filter changes to get the gunk out. Loose gunk can plug thing up, so watch oil pressure too. Seals and gaskets that failed but were sealed by gunk will show up now.The new oil didn't damage anything, it just revealed what was there.

          Charles Eck
          Essex, MD

          '57 Commander 4 door sedan, 'Bluebird'
          '66 Ford F-250
          '66 Ford F-100
          '53 John Deere 50

          Studebakers were made to drive! (Besides, they don't get lost as easy in the Wal-Mart parking lot!)

          Comment


          • #20
            Valvoline VR1 racing motor oil comes in multigrade and single grade viscosity. The Zinc/Phosphorus levels are 0.14/0.13. For more information see:

            http://www.valvoline.com/products/VR...otor%20Oil.pdf

            Based on the article posted by Dick Steinkamp, it would appear that the ZDDP levels in the Valvoline VR1 are adequate without the need of additional additives. I spoke today with a fellow that runs cars frequently at drag races, who also owns a Jiffy Lube and he said he would recommend I go with the Valvoline VR1 and use a straight 30 weight for every oil change.

            <div align="left">John</div id="left">

            <div align="left">'63 Avanti, R1, Auto, AC, PW (unrestored)</div id="left">
            sigpic
            John
            63R-2386
            Resto-Mod by Michael Myer

            Comment


            • #21
              Any oil suggestions for a [u]newly rebuilt </u> R-1 engine...since it's clean there won't be any sludge.

              63 Avanti R1 2788
              1914 Stutz Bearcat
              (George Barris replica)

              Washington State
              63 Avanti R1 2788
              1914 Stutz Bearcat
              (George Barris replica)

              Washington State

              Comment


              • #22
                Real good read Dick S. thanx jimmijim
                sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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                • #23
                  SOOO! Dick, does this mean that when it comes to our concern about ZDDP in new oils...in keeping with the famous words of the "Saturday Night Live" Character - "Roseanne Anna Danna" ..."NEVER MIND!"????

                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  I have only two limitations ...BRAINS & ENERGY
                  SDC member since 1975
                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  SDC member since 1975

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    quote:Originally posted by jclary


                    [b]SOOO! Dick, does this mean that when it comes to our concern about ZDDP in new oils...in keeping with the famous words of the "Saturday Night Live" Character - "Roseanne Anna Danna" ..."NEVER MIND!"????
                    I don't believe that what I posted is the final and absolute word on the subject. It's just further input to muddy the waters [}].

                    Personally, I don't worry about the ZDDP thing, but some do and can most likely find experts to back up THEIR position.

                    I don't think it HURTS to put in extra ZDDP, so if you are on the fence on this one, do it.


                    Dick Steinkamp
                    Bellingham, WA

                    Dick Steinkamp
                    Bellingham, WA

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      quote:Originally posted by 53k

                      I have a "reverse" motor oil question. That is, I have two five-quart cans of 40 - 50 year old Studebaker 30 weight motor oil. Both cans seep if I turn them right side up. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use this oil in my Studebakers?
                      You know, it's one of those questions I've alway's wondered about myself, but never really asked......I feared the, are you stupid look.
                      Makes you wonder Does oil go bad? I wouldn't think so, give it a good shake after sitting and pour her in. I did with some 10yr old oil.....mind you in a cheaper Lawn mower, no problem.

                      ChopStu
                      61 Lark

                      sigpic

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                      • #26
                        quote:Originally posted by bondobilly

                        I have a lot of bottles of ZDDP, that was not my concern.

                        I was informed that all the oil companies will be going to this "synthetic blend". I was also told that this oil contains BOTH conventional oil and synthetic.

                        I was concerned about MIXING them. ZDDP is not the issue. I also remember folks saying that "synthetic" can find holes to drip from that conventional can't. I am lead to believe that due to my living in a large metro area that they are "converting" us before the rest of the country. All I wanted to know was could these two be mixed, I did not want to be chastised for not keeping notes. I might have been out of class the day this lesson was taught. Also present for the first time since I bought my first Studebaker was TYPE A transmission fluid. Container said that it will mix WITH all transmission fluids and can be used safely in all FORD GM and Chrysler engines and most Japanese cars. Did not need any so I passed the display by.
                        Bill, there is always going to be some smart arssed remark directed at someone at any given time. Usually the same few people will voice an unsoliced snide remark. They generally offer up a smart arssed remark because they in all reality have no pertinent information to offer and are only in search of an audience. Like a Pee Wee Herman type. Are you familiar with the "Who Can Post The Most Club"? Maybe some buttons or T-shirts would be in order. Bill, try not to miss class so frequently. jimmijim
                        sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          [quote]quote:Originally posted by jimmijim8

                          Originally posted by bondobilly

                          Bill, try not to miss class so frequently. jimmijim
                          I promise to attend classes more often and take notes.

                          BG

                          Owner of Carbon Foot Print, formally known as the HFH

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