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  • Transmission questions


  • #2
    I'm ASSuming that this is an automatic; sounds like you have either old, hard seals or a sticking valve somewhere. Unfortunately the inner workings of an automatic transmission are a mystery to me so I can't offer you better advice

    You could use the '61 OD trans, but you would need a bellhousing, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, etc. etc. etc. and you'd need to get the pedals, linkage, driveshaft etc. from a similar car to yours

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      The internal Seals in the the Front Clutch drum are old, dried out and cracked and bi-passing (leaking) fluid from the Clutch Drum.

      The same problem could be happening at the Band Servos, causing slippage.

      This requires a rebuild, further use after warmed up, will cause excessive clutch and or Band wear.


      StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        I bet your fluid level is low. Check it right. I think that may mean while it's running in "D".

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        • #5
          Thanks for the help. It is an automatic and when I check the fluid it is warm, and I have checked it in mutiple gears.

          -Chris

          1964 Daytona

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          • #6
            I would try some trans stop leak as it's probably leaking piston seal which expansion on warm up seals it. Wouldn't hurt to try. I've seen a fluid change help this. Once a friend of mine had a Capri that did this every day. He used Ford hydrostatic tractor fluid in it as it was red like trans fluid, worked great from then on. A small amount of brake fluid(half pint or so) may also work. I've seen this work on power steering leaks.

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            • #7
              Your trans is on it's way to the rebuilder. The posts above are stop-gap measures to buy you a little more time. However- the cost is great. As Rich mentioned- it will cause excessive wear of the front drum- and that part is NLA new, and decent used ones are hard to find.

              I like the idea of swapping to the 3/OD (I hate autos)...
              IF your '61 is also a drop-pedal car (I don't remember when Stude actually switched), you can salvage most of the linkages for the '64. If not- you'll need to find a donor-car.
              Remember to dial-indicate the bell housing (use the search here on the forum). The only other real issue will be the driveshaft length... but there are plenty of rebuilders that can custom make one using your yolks.

              Ray


              Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
              Ray

              www.raylinrestoration.com
              Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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              • #8
                Chris,

                I know this is not a fitting question for the "Technical Talk" forum, but I had to ask. According to your "handle', one might assume you're interested in, or own a Ford Crown Vic former police cruiser. Yes/no? Me too.

                Dan Miller
                Atlanta, GA

                [img=left]http://static.flickr.com/57/228744729_7aff5f0118_m.jpg[/img=left]
                Road Racers turn left AND right.

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                • #9
                  I've seen many a trans that had shrunken/cracked seals live a normal productive life after using Trans-X in them. Not so much in GM and Chrysler trans because they use lip seals, but in Fords and BW you'll find grommet type seals that are tons heftier. If you haven't burned out any clutch packs or bands, as denoted by pan residue and burnt fluid color, you can expect your trans to live for years.

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                  • #10
                    So I take it that a rebuild is in the future, but I'll try the suggested ideas, and who knows maybe they will work but I'll start saving money now.

                    And ROADRACELARK, yeah I've owned a good deal of Crown Vics, but for the time being I only have the Stude.

                    -Chris

                    1964 Daytona

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                    • #11
                      Buddymander's suggestion is right on. Did you check the fluid level in Drive?
                      Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

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                      • #12
                        I have rung the bell for "TransX" many times on here, please try it
                        and report back, usually 5 miles and its not leaking & shifting fine.

                        Tom





                        '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
                        '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                        Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                        http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                        I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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                        • #13
                          I've used the trans-x and has worked for me. Change the fluid in the torque convertor, pan, clean or replace the filter, new rear tranny seal. I would not recommend Pikes Peak or drag racing but if you find it to be cured drive normally. You may be pleasantly surprised. jimmijim
                          sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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                          • #14
                            **update**
                            So today I drained the torque converter and the pan, installed clean filter, and filled it up. I used TransX, and now the car is shifting fine, no more "warming up" or hard shifts.

                            -Chris

                            1964 Daytona

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                            • #15
                              Just baby that tranny along. No jack rabbit starts, and ease up on the gas just when you know it is about to shift. Glad to know it seemes to have worked for you. jimmijim
                              sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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