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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Overdrive issue

    My overdrive "works" but not completely as it should. With the handle in, it's in OD, out it's in direct drive. However, the kickdown switch doesn't do anything and it looks like there's no possibility of it working because of such a large gap, as shown in the attached picture. Am I wrong about that? Also , when in overdrive and slowing down, it doesn't go back into direct drive, as it should. Next, I have a bullet nosed black wire that looks like it needs to plug into something, but what? There are 2 wires coming out of the harness, one going to the solenoid, the other to nothing. That's the second picture. Any ideas?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I am guessing the stray wire is supposed to connect to the same stud on the coil that the distributor points connect to. Starting from a standstill, with the OD handle pushed in, do you detect an upshift to overdrive at about 27 MPH? Or is it just in free-wheeling mode all the time?
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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    • K Russell
      K Russell commented
      Editing a comment
      No upshift, it's freewheeling all the time so no compression braking when slowing down either.

  • #3
    That gap looks pretty large. Easiest thing to do is have the wife slowly push the gas pedal to the floor while you watch the paddle. You just might need to adjust the switch or the linkage a little.
    If your Governor is working properly it will at the correct speed complete the ground circuit which will energize the relay and fire the solenoid. That’s overdrive. Slow the Governor enough to lose the ground, and you’re out of overdrive. So going into overdrive, but it won’t drop out doesn’t make sense. Are you manually push the OD cable in and out?
    who knows about the stray wire. Trace it back to the other end.

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    • K Russell
      K Russell commented
      Editing a comment
      Tracing that mystery wire would be only possible if I sliced open the insulation that holds the 2 wires you see, plus the 4 wires going to the kickdown switch. According to the schematic I have in the shop manual, there shouldn't be 2 black wires in that spot but everything looks original in the wiring.

  • #4
    Clarification: You will get engine braking "only" when in OD (Handle in) and above cut-in speed. Once the OD cuts out (below speed) you will free wheel, not the other way around... Of course you get engine braking when in direct drive (handle out).

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    • K Russell
      K Russell commented
      Editing a comment
      I never get engine braking in OD. I thought I recalled having braking once speed dropped down to around 20 mph on my previous Flight Hawk but with this one it doesn't happen, only in direct.

  • #5
    Warner produces a 55 page manual you just have to find it. Early models had reverse lock out and later models discontinued it.
    Attached Files

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    • #6
        • K Russell
          #2.1
          K Russell commented
          Today, 11:24 AM
          No upshift, it's freewheeling all the time so no compression braking when slowing down either.
      • Then it's not going into overdrive at all. Freewheeling is a necessary condition to enable an automatic shift to overdrive to occur when the solenoid gets energized. I suspect the governor or the wiring to it is faulty. Another thing that can inhibit overdrive from working properly is a mis-adjusted lockout cable. In order for the OD to work, when the T-handle is pushed in, the lever on the OD housing must be fully back against its stop. "Close" might work for hand grenades, but it won't for the lockout lever. It must be hard on the stop. I usually like to set it up such that the T-handle is about a quarter-inch shy of hitting the bezel nut when the lockout lever is hard on the stop. Do check this out, and make corrections if necessary. This will trip you up, if you ignore it. It made a fool of me, once.
      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

      Comment


      • K Russell
        K Russell commented
        Editing a comment
        When the OD lever is out there is a big difference from when it's in, most noticed by much higher rpm's plus obvious engine braking, which never exists when the lever is in.

      • K Russell
        K Russell commented
        Editing a comment
        I managed to gain about 1/16" extra on pushing the OD handle in a couple of days ago but didn't think it would have made a difference but took the old girl out to a cruise night and guess what? OD is now working as it should, other than still needing some adjustment to be able to get the kick down switch to make contact.

    • #7
      Engine braking should exist when the T-handle is pushed, and the transmission has actually shifted to overdrive. It won't be very effective engine braking, particularly in high gear, but it is definitely there. If you have free wheeling at any speed, the overdrive has not shifted.
      Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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      • #8
        The Borg Warner Overdrive Manual was a great suggestion for you, but also The Studebaker Shop manual for your year, has really good information on how to narrow down the circuits "Go, No go", until you find the problem.

        As Gord tried to tell you twice, you have never been in Overdrive, and if you were, the Car will always freewheel below 30 MPH and NOT above about 32 MPH after releasing the Gas Pedal if the Governor and Solenoid work properly after being wired correctly.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #9
          You can relocate the kick down switch inside so you can select conventional with out pushing the throttle to the floor it is very handy at times. Some automatics with OD can deselect manually and some British sports cars were wired with a manual deselect.

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