Brakes: Proper way to install Key wedge

[57studechampion]

Is there a proper way to install the key wedge on a 56 Champion. I had the rear drums re surfaced this spring. I started hearing a noise in rear axle, mostly when I turn corners or curves. When I pulled the drivers rear drum I noticed that I put the key in with the flat side on the top. It was also not the same shape as the passenger side. The drum where the key was in is pushed outward and not round on the outside edge. It looks like it was pushed out and broke it. I took it to a machine shop and they seem to think that they can put it back in place and braise it to be solid. The Passenger side was a nightmare to get off. I finally got it off and noticed that the flat side was in the axle channel and the tapered end was to the outside.

I have looked in the service manual and do not see the proper way to install the key.

Any advise will be appreciated.

I need to get this fixed so that I can go to the International meet.

Thanks in advance for any and all comments.

[StudeRich]

Yes it was assembled wrong, the Manual says and shows the Bevel on the Key Inboard and Down.

If the Hub of the Drum is pushed outward making it out of round, it is Toast.
Braze is quite soft for the job of securing the Key in the Keyway.

The Axle Nut gets 170 Ft. Lbs. of Torque, or to the nearest cotter pin hole to that.

This damage is the responsibility of the last assembler to get right, and replace the Hub/Drum Assembly, ANY Older Chrysler Product, Jeep or not so old VW would be the same, so ANY experienced "Technician" would know that.

[bensherb]

"What is a "not so old VW" ? Keep in mind, that in most VW circles it's not a VW unless it's air cooled (water coolers have their own small groups). None of the VW's I have or have had ('58 -'75, still have four) used a keyway on the axles. They all have splined axles , large splines much like the "10 spline" of a clutch disk. The drums just slide on and are retained by a nut torqued to 330 ft lbs and a cotter pin.

You can also add Ford thru 1948 and AMC until they went out of business to that list with keyway axle hubs.

[57studechampion]

I am the one who installed it incorrectly.

I will try to find another drum. Do you think I can find a new one anywhere or do I need to start looking at junk yards. I see that you mentioned older Chrysler or Jeep. What year range would you suggest? Again I am not a mechanic, What do I need to measure to start looking for a replacement?

[jackb]

Chryslers & jeeps just used the assembly, not the same parts as Stude.....I believe...

[StudeRich]

It is the PROCESS we are talking about, Tapered Axle with Keyway.

[E. Davis]

Not sure I understand what is ruined on this. If you are talking about the keyway on the hub being trashed then any good machine shop can fill the ruined keyway with the proper material and cut a new slot into it. I had one repaired on a Rambler and to my knowledge is still going strong. You may also be able to find a good used hub on this forum.

[StudeRich]

Not sure I understand what is ruined on this. If you are talking about the keyway on the hub being trashed then any good machine shop can fill the ruined keyway with the proper material and cut a new slot into it. I had one repaired on a Rambler and to my knowledge is still going strong. You may also be able to find a good used hub on this forum.

Earle; I was going off of this statement by the OP:

QUOTE: "The drum where the key was in is pushed outward and not round on the outside edge. It looks like it was pushed out and broke it."

I took that to mean that the outside of center of the Hub is cracked and destroyed, as I have seen many times, but maybe it depends on the "Machinist".

[gordr]

Nine-inch Champion rear drums are pretty thick on the ground. Pretty sure you can find a good used one easily enough if you ask around. A good sound repair by welding and machining a new keyway would likely cost more than an NOS drum/hub combo.