53 coupe frame ideas

[emc53]

The frame on my car is rusty and needs painted. But before I do that I would like to add more supports . Any suggestions

[warrlaw1]

Just did the frame on my 55K. Sandblasting showed the weak spots and using 18 gauge steel mig'd over them in some spots, and in others removed the offending metal with cut off wheels (many) and replaced. Then securely welded every joint and seam that was just riveted and tack welded by the factory. Primer, then frame paint. Looks pretty and it will take a bump. Added lots of metal where the bumper brackets bolt on, too. Good luck.

[Studeman]

Is your car going to be stock? Is it a 6-cylinder or V8?

If a V8....
Find and purchase a '61 or later Hawk Frame. ALL '61 Hawk frames are V8 Frames. There are some '57-'59 CK Frames that are lighter 6-cylinder frames. That's why I specify '61- on up.
You will need to add the carrier-bearing support from your old frame (easy) - unless you plan on using a long-tailshaft transmission and 1-piece driveshaft.

The '62-64 GT Frames are the heaviest.. but require (2) brackets removed. Other than that, they work with no other mods.

I cannot express how EASY this swap is...

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

Here's what I did for more support:

http://rides.webshots.com/slideshow/453747682GrpcCM

http://community.webshots.com/user/s...host=community

[T-CAB]

Rebuilt a '64 frame last year. Cut off the engine bottom plate, then had the frame sandblasted. Welded 12 gauge steel plates on the inside where the side walls were thinner. painted inside with POR 15. The welded a new 12 gauge plate on the bottom and welded every 2 inches by drilling through the new metal and welding to old flange.

Fabricated new plates and bolted them on instead of the factory rivets.

Looks great when it was finished. Hope it will hold up.

It was a lot of work, but there was no rust free frame in this part of Canada.

T-cab

[emc53]

The frame I have has a camaro front clip welded to it (not a good weld job) and planning on putting 400hp on it.

[Studeman]

quote:Originally posted by emc53

The frame I have has a camaro front clip welded to it (not a good weld job) and planning on putting 400hp on it.

OUCH... if they used the ORIGINAL '53 frame.. I hope it was from a V-8. The 6-cylinder frames were even lighter.

I think for safety and longevity- you at least need to replace the entire bottom plates on the frame rails. I like T-Cabs suggestion of those so far...

It might be a bit too much work to swap stuff to another frame.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[buddymander]

Clipping a weak frame like a studebaker concentrates all of the bending and flexing stress at the point of the weld because the front section no longer flexes. I would weld plates alongside the studebaker rails probably just 1/8" steel going back about three feet from the junction. One side would probably do it but if you do two don't have them end even; rather have one side go back another foot, to spread out the stress point. I wouldn't bother with the top or bottom unless it's rusted thru.

[emc53]

How do you tell if it is 6-cylinder frame?

[Kenmike2]

I found that if you don't remove the bottom plate of the complete frame there will be rust hidden inside the frame that you cannot see nor eliminate and it will continue to do its dastardly deeds after you've finished your refurb.
What I do: turn the frame upside down and weld it securely to a 1 inch thick steel table. This will hold it from distorting while the work is being done.
Then strip of the bottom plate from one end to the other.
What you may find.
Bulkhead plates at the forward ends of the rear springs broken completeely out and laying in the frame.
Lots of rust areas that were totally hidden.
Cracks that are not visible outside the frame.
Then, sandblast to white metal and paint the complete frame with a superior quality epoxy primer.
Then fabricate new bottom cover plates. Do them in 2-3 foot segments rather than trying to fit a full length piece.
Punch 3/8 holes along each edge.
Weld them to the flange by doing rosette welds thru the 3/8 inch holes. Weld quickly and cool down each weld to prevent heat soak from burning off the primer too much.
Put lots of drain holes in the new bottom plates.
Weld all reiveted joints on the frame
cut it loos from the table and your done and the frame will be better than it was when it was new from the factory.
Regards
Ken

[Studeous]

I wrote into the Cooperator about a year ago trying to find out if there was a difference in the 53 Commander and coupe frames. The answer I got was that they were the same thickness. I have talked with several people that believe that they are lighter though. Granted the lark 6cyl frames are lighter also. Ray says that 57 to 59 CK 6 cyl frames are lighter guage. What about 53 to 56 6 cyl frames?

Richard Burks
53s
57 Transtar
63 R2 4 spd
Middle Tennessee Show April 4th 2009 in Shelbyville TN

[Studeous]

I was meaning to say 53 Commander and Champion frames on the previous post

Richard Burks
53s
57 Transtar
63 GT R2 4spd

[Studeman]

The frame thicknesses are in the SHOP manuals, under "General Specifications". I don't remember where I read the thicknesses of the earlier frames, but I recall they got steadily heavier over the years. I know the '53 frame was lighter than the '54...both for 6-cylinders and V-8's. Early in '54 they installed a new cross member to help with frame-twist. I also recall another change around '57 or so...when the switched to a 1-piece drive shaft. But I can't find the documentation on that...

Here are the specs from the '59-'64 Shop Manual... if anyone wants to copy them.
Year Body Frame Thickness
59S W, F .0747"-14GA
59V W, F .0897"-13GA
59S-59V D .097"-13GA
59S-59V J .1196"-11GA
59S-59V Y .1196"-11GA
59S-59V C* .0897"-13GA
60S W, F .0747"-14GA
60V W, F .0897"-13GA
60S-60V D,P .0897"-13GA
60S-60V J, L .1196"-11GA
60S-60V Y .1196"-11GA
60V C* .0897"-13GA
61S W, F .0747"-14GA
61V W, F .0897"-13GA
61S-61V D,P .0897"-13GA
61S-61V J, L .1196"-11GA
61S-61V Y .1196"-11GA
61V C* .0897"-13GA
62S F .0747"-14GA
62S-P, 62V-F P .0897"-13GA
62S-62V K, J, Y, .1196"-11GA
Taxi-Police .1196"-11GA
63S .0747"-14GA
63S-P, 63V-P .1196"-11GA
63S-63V K,J,Y,L .1196"-11GA
Taxi-Police .1196"-11GA
63V F .0897"-13GA
64S F .0747"-14GA
64S-64V P .1196"-11GA
64S-64V K,J,Y,L .1196"-11GA
Taxi-Police .1196"-11GA
64V F .0897"-13GA



Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[emc53]

I had the frame sand blasted and did an ultrasonic thickness test and Dye penetrant test and it was in good shape . The weld joining the Camaro frame needed some worked. I welded 1/8 inch metal to the sides of the frame. I will re-check the frame after the car has a few miles put on it.