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No lights

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  • No lights

    You know, reading the Ammeter Dance post reminded me...

    I have a '63 Daytona Wagonaire. It's in pretty good shape all round and runs fairly well. The problem is that the lights won't work. None of them. No dash, turn, running or headlamps. It's not a fuse, they're all fine. I turn on the lights and there's a 'plink' sound from the breaker under the dash. They never even flicker.

    To be honest, I haven't done more than a cursory check. The car isn't anywhere close to being back on the road. Still quite a lot of work to do. So I'm not in a bleeding rush. Like I am with the Champ.

    I would appreciate any suggestions anyone would care to give. Thanks in advance.


    Lotsa Larks!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

  • #2
    you have a bare wire touching check all your wires around the grommets

    keith kirchhoff
    brockport ny 14420

    Comment


    • #3
      I agree- definitely a dead short.

      Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
      Parish, central NY 13131
      http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by keeffer

        you have a bare wire touching check all your wires around the grommets

        keith kirchhoff
        brockport ny 14420
        Right. You have a dead short somewhere that is tripping the breaker. (Another possibility is the breaker itself is bad.) You can narrow it down a bit. Does it happen with just the park/tail lights lit? If not, then it's not in those circuits. Does it happen on both high and low beams? If in only one, then you have identified the offending circuit. If it's just in one headlight circuit, I would work backward from the lights to look for bare wires. Don't forget the dimmer switch -- they've been known to go bad. If all that wiring looks okay, then it might be in the light switch or the wiring behind the dash. And you could just replace the breaker and see what happens.

        Skip
        Skip Lackie

        Comment


        • #5
          One thing I might add, whatever you do DON'T wire around the breaker unless you're absolutely sure it's the offending part. If you do and it's not, your wiring's gonna get hot. Hey, that rhymes, I think I've missed missed my calling as a poet!

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

            the 63 has a breaker built into the switch (like most studes) The plink you hear is the breaker.

            The high beam switch is probably whats wrong. Sometimes the 63 and 64 headlight switches have a part inside that will break and ground.

            Most of mine were one or the other.

            Both the switches are not bad pricewise.
            No breaker in the switch as I recall. Both Larks and Hawks use rocker switches. Breakers are small rectangular tin boxes with two studs. Sometimes the breaker works loose from its bracket, and the long "load side" stud contacts ground.

            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
            Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

            Comment


            • #7
              Yeah, well, all the things I've checked first. The bare wire theory is the same as mine. THAT takes much more time to hunt down. The harness seems fine up front. I disconnected the headlamps and horns and it still tripped. Haven't done anything in back yet. It's possible on the brights switch. I'll try that next. Who knows? It could be just a bad switch. Those are a bloody pain to remove!

              Thanks for the suggestions!


              Lotsa Larks!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
              K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
              Ron Smith
              Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

              Comment


              • #8
                If it isn't too much of a headache, you could remove a wire at a time from the ignition switch to help isolate which system the problem is in. Then you'd have only 10 miles of wire to check instead of 50!

                Comment


                • #9
                  My car sat for a while and the headlights wouldn't work at all until I replaced the dimmer/high beam switch. Now they work fine. Don't know what to say about your other light problems though.

                  Jim's pride....
                  1963 Daytona Convertible

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

                    Yeah, well, all the things I've checked first. The bare wire theory is the same as mine. THAT takes much more time to hunt down. The harness seems fine up front. I disconnected the headlamps and horns and it still tripped. Haven't done anything in back yet. It's possible on the brights switch. I'll try that next. Who knows? It could be just a bad switch. Those are a bloody pain to remove!

                    Thanks for the suggestions!


                    Lotsa Larks!
                    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                    Ron Smith
                    Ron-
                    Maybe I misunderstood your message, but it doesn't sound like you're understanding mine, either. Instead of turning on the headlights, just put on the parking lights. If the taillights light up and the fuse doesn't blow, then your problem is NOT in the rear wiring.

                    It sounds like you disconnected the headlight wiring up by the radiator, and not at the switch. If you did, most of the headlight wiring was still hot and still could be the problem. The horn wiring is on a different circuit and doesn't matter. Turn on the headlights. If the breaker trips, turn them off. Wait for the breaker to reset. Hit the dimmer switch. Turn the lights on again. If the breaker trips again, then the problem is NOT in the wiring between the dimmer switch and the headlights. It is either: (1) the dimmer switch itself (a good candidate); (2) the breaker; (3) the light switch itself; or (4) the wiring between the light switch and the dimmer switch and/or the connections at either switch.

                    Skip
                    Skip Lackie

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Skip, I understood your kind message. Both of them! Yes, I've tried the running lights. The breaker won't even allow the turn signals (light switch off). They give one blink then PLINK off goes the breaker (at least I know they'll work). I tried swapping out the breaker with one from another Lark on the property, with the same result. I fear it's a bare wire somewhere...



                      Lotsa Larks!
                      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                      Ron Smith
                      Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                      Ron Smith
                      Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by studeclunker

                        Skip, I understood your kind message. Both of them! Yes, I've tried the running lights. The breaker won't even allow the turn signals (light switch off). They give one blink then PLINK off goes the breaker (at least I know they'll work). I tried swapping out the breaker with one from another Lark on the property, with the same result. I fear it's a bare wire somewhere...



                        Lotsa Larks!
                        K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                        Ron Smith
                        Big clue there, Ron! If the turn signals don't work, that pretty much confines the short to the park/tail/stop lamp department. Headlights themselves are probably not involved, except that the tail lamps have to be on for the headlights to work. IIRC, the parking lights go out when the headlamps are selected, so it pretty much has to be a fault in one of the rear tail/stop/signal lamp units, or the harness supplying one or both.

                        First place I'd look is in the lamps themselves. Somebody MIGHT have jammed a single-contact bulb in one of the sockets where a double-contact (1157) is called for. That could cause a short to ground on BOTH the tail and stop/turn circuits, which are normally separate. Or else the wire harness to one of the lamps could have gotten chafed or pinched.

                        Look to the rear of the car. Dollars to donuts that's where you'll find the trouble.


                        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

                        Comment

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