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Clock Repair -and- Where did NCSDC Go?

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  • Clock Repair -and- Where did NCSDC Go?

    I took the clock out of the 62 Hawk and cleaned the points. The electromagnet energized and rewound the clock, but it still doesn't run. I have pushed the flywheel to get it running and as long as I put some pressure on the spring gear, it runs. I hesitate to oil the gear bearings with say... WD-40. I would rather wait and see if I can get some clock oil in the morning... or has anyone had any luck with some other type of non-clock oil? What type or brand?

    I ran a thread on the forum search for clock repair and it seems that NCSDC has a clock repair article. I can't seem to get that article to come up though. Has it moved??



    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by mjeansonne

    I took the clock out of the 62 Hawk and cleaned the points. The electromagnet energized and rewound the clock, but it still doesn't run. I have pushed the flywheel to get it running and as long as I put some pressure on the spring gear, it runs. I hesitate to oil the gear bearings with say... WD-40. I would rather wait and see if I can get some clock oil in the morning... or has anyone had any luck with some other type of non-clock oil? What type or brand?
    A clock maker friend of mine a few years ago said to NEVER use WD-40 on a clock.

    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

    Comment


    • #3
      NCSDC has a new website http://www.ncsdc.net/ ....Look under Ray's Tech Pages

      1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

      Ken Byrd
      Lewisville,NC
      1961 Hawk ...4-Speed;4bc;Twin Traction

      Ken Byrd
      Lewisville,NC

      Comment


      • #4
        I'd clean it out well with a solvent and then use a really light oil. 3-in-1 might be more appropriate, although I'm sure I just horrified any real watchmakers reading this.

        nate

        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
        --
        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by blackhawk61

          NCSDC has a new website http://www.ncsdc.net/ ....Look under Ray's Tech Pages
          Unfortunately none of Ray's Tech Tips are opening...at least right now that's the case.

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Mulberry, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

          Comment


          • #6
            Clock Works does a great job on those clocks if you want to turn it over to someone else.

            Comment


            • #7
              A couple of years ago I bought an inop clock out of a 62 Hawk to practice on instead of tearing into my clock in the 60 Hawk. I cleaned it with contact cleaner and oiled it with this Microil. It now works perfectly, so I did the same with my clock from the 60. It now also performs flawlessly. I think I paid about $10 for a lifetime supply of this stuff. Anybody need a clock for their 62 Hawk?

              http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=858975

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              • #8
                Ofcourse these clocks are vulnerable but in my case it got also wet by leaking tru the moulding under the windscreen.
                I cleaned it with pressed air and put a little wd 40 on it ,it runs for a year now ,every day 5 min behind!
                Dick Waterreus

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                • #9
                  When I pulled the dash from my 55K, the "manual" for the dash clock was lying just behind the clock. It's 6V and the car has about 75K miles. Would the clock have been a dealer add on, plus the manual, or would the factory stash the manual behind the clock?
                  Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've done five or six clocks with good results. After disassembly, clean the interior with a good grade, soft, artist brush dipped in 100% alcohol. Then, clean the points with crocus cloth or a fine point file. With a toothpick, put a drop of silicone or clock oil on end of each
                    bearing shft. Repeat a few times while gently spinning the escapement wheel. Manually rewind by re-tracting the armature spring assembly and let it close a few times until the clock continues to run. Then hook it up to appropriate voltage on the bench and see that it rewinds OK. Let run for a few hours and adjust the F/S dial until it keeps right time. Assemble, replace and your good to go for another year.

                    Dick Curtis
                    The 1950 Champion Starlight
                    Santa Barbara
                    CA

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                    • #11
                      NCSDC.cCOM is no more....
                      My webspace provider wouldn't lower the price for space,($16.95/mo) I threatened to leave them if I didn't get unlimited space and they capitulated, However- there are 10000 providers that cost MUCH less.. (I've been with them since 1999) ...and they quit supporting MS Front-Page extensions.... everything had to be done via FTP...which SUCKS!!!
                      I have the entire site archived- so we haven't lost anything... I'm just debating whether to build an all-new site for Ray-Lin Restoration, or just a personal site with space for my Tech-pages, Biz, eBay stuff, etc...

                      I will probably go with Fat-Cow for the new space... $4.83/month and they support Front-Page... good rep for service and back-up.

                      Ray


                      Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
                      Ray

                      www.raylinrestoration.com
                      Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the responses. Ray, sorry to hear about the web site. I guess its a symptom of the times. When gasoline goes up, I guess band space has to also!!??[)]

                        I have cleaned and reoiled the clock, but still nothing. I guess I will have to either replace the clock or convert to quartz. I suspect the movement bearing surfaces are corroded or something.

                        I remember that I found a clock for my 1950 Champion in an old parts car that was completely exposed to the elements. A file of the points, without any cleaning and oiling and the clock worked like a ...Champ[)]??

                        Any suggestions now?



                        Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
                        Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by mjeansonne


                          Any suggestions now?
                          Get out the magnifying glass and be SURE the small wire from the points to the winding coil is intact. Move it with a needle to be sure it's connected. If broken, you have some fine soldering to do. Not the kind you can do with a soldering gun either...you need a soldering station.

                          Ray


                          Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
                          Ray

                          www.raylinrestoration.com
                          Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The electromagnet works fine... it does rewind. But the clock won't tick more than a few tocks, then stops unless a push the flywheel again. I finally discovered a watch repairman in town (apparently the only one left). I will try to get the clock by him to see if the bearings aren't corroded.



                            Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
                            Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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