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  • Trans cleaning

    I am in the beginning stages of prepping the tranny in my 52 Champion. I was glad to see no visible signs of major wear and tear, so I think I'll skip a rebuild (seeing as how I'm a rookie and all). Other than a gear being visibly worn, are there other signs that a rebuild is in orders? I don;t want to miss anything as it's out of the car now. The gears appear to shift smoothly. I did notice some debris in the old fluid, but it all looks like gravel (probably from me). Is there a tried and true way to flush this junk out?
    Thanks for any advice (and for taking it easy on a newbie).

    Michael

  • #2
    kerosene/diesel fuel is probably your best bet for a flush. Probably the most likely thing to be worn is the synchros, not really sure how to check them and make sure they're 100% good though. If you've already got it apart you might want to just see how much new synchros and bearings would cost.

    nate

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    • #3
      I'm assuming this is a straight-drive... but it is OD-equipped?

      After you clean it out with Kerosene or Diesel as N8 suggests... spray some cheap dollar-store oven cleaner through the gears and the inside of the transmission case. After a minute (only) Flush this out with water, then rinse again with kerosene/diesel. Spray everything inside with WD-40, PB-Blaster or another spray-lubricant before buttoning it up.

      To Refill:
      If it does NOT have OD... use Valvoline Synthetic Gear Oil. This will keep the shifts smooth, and the heat down. I nursed a noisy, howling 4-speed for several years with the synthetic. It really knocked down the heat and noise.

      If you have OD... fill with a 50:50 mixture of 30wt non-detergent motor oil, and STP Oil-Treatment. 2-quarts oil: 4-pints STP.
      Be SURE to fill the OVERDRIVE first, and then the Transmission Case. Let it settle for a few minutes and then re-check the levels.

      Ray


      Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
      Ray

      www.raylinrestoration.com
      Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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      • #4
        Great feedback! Not an OD transmission, so will follow your advise about synthetic. Thanks for the tips!
        Michael

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        • #5
          I've had good luck with Redline products as well, as far as synthetics go. I've used both MT-90 and Heavy Shockproof - the MT-90 makes for slicker shifting esp. when cold but supposedly the Heavy Shockproof provides better protection for the gears. If your trans is "condition unknown" you may want to fill with dino squeezins for the initial check out and then if it seems to work OK drain and refill with synthetic after you get a couple miles on it. that way if you do have to tear it down you won't have wasted the $$$ on synthetic oil, and you'll have one last flush.

          nate

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          55 Commander Starlight
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          • #6
            Aren't scnyro's all brass. when I saw em ,in a saginaw,or munice ,they were Brass . These had the teeth on the outside of the circumfence of the circle, mind you this was sagnaw or Muncie.( from 60's muscle ) Sooo you look at the Brass colored teeth to see if they are ground down( how chewed up are they

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            • #7
              Probably. I know that this is a point of constant-ish discussion on some VW groups; some claim that one should not use GL-5 in a transmission with brass synchros, others claim that it may be theoretically bad but that one would wear them out before corrosion from GL-5 becomes a problem. Redline claims that their MT-90 is safe for brass synchros anyway so at least that product sidesteps that discussion.

              nate

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              55 Commander Starlight
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