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steering wheel

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    we are restoring a 50 champion 2 door and have found someone to restore the steering wheel but i cant get it off the collem to send, anyone know where i can get a puller for this thanks bill

  • #2
    WELCOME Bill. You can usually rent a puller at
    Local auto parts stores. If not, they are for sale
    at auto parts stores, tool supply stores, Sears, etc.

    Good luck, and post pictures when you can

    Tex E. Grier


    • #3
      I bought a generic from my FLAPS, but had to buy some long and smaller diameter bolts, as the ones in the puller kit were all too large (diameter). The bolt size and spacing might be different than on my 63 wheel.

      My dad mentioned just using a dead hammer and whacking the wheel on the back side a few times, but that just makes me cringe - I don't want to damage the wheel any more than it is.


      1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175
      53-54 C/Ks, 55 Speedsters, 63 Daytonas, Wagonaires Registries

      1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175


      • #4
        As mentioned, you'll probably have to buy some smaller bolts to use with the puller.

        Tom - Mulberry, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

        Tom - Bradenton, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD


        • #5
          This is one that has to be removed from the bottom. There should be a number of threads on this. Harbor Freight has a puller for $29, but you still have to make a small plug to keep from mushrooming the threads on the end of the shaft.


          • #6
            I tried and tried to remove my wheel from my 51, several times, with several different (rented, borrowed) pullers, with no success. I followed all the advice and suggestions from this forum and appreciated all help. I wound up doing a little more damage to it during the process of attempting to remove it. I have no idea why it wouldn't come off. Anyway, I wound up restoring it ON THE COLUMN! It was a bit more awkward, but the entire interior was out of the car at the time, including the dash, seats, etc. so there was plenty of room. My steering wheel currently looks brand new, and I would guess that it's never coming off again. So, if all else fails, consider restoring it yourself (not hard) and doing it in place.

            Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
            '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434


            • #7
              Do you mind me asking how much the quote was to restore the steering wheel? That is the one thing I want to renew and keep really close to stock is the interior of my 50 Champion. I LOVE the dash.

              How do others go about restoring it themselves?

              1950 Studebaker Champion 2dr sedan.


              • #8
                I just got mine off of my 62. I put the puller that I got from Northern Tool( $13.00) on. Hit the threads and splines with Penetrating Oil, and waited. Snapped one of the bolts in half, and from that learned that the bolts need to be very even to get max pull. Also, do not bottom out the bolts, so that if one breaks, it can be removed. If there is room, one should keep the nut started on the steering column so that it doesn't mushroom. The newer wheel does not leave room to leave the nut on the steering column. Kept doing this for three weeks, and one day it just popped off. Had so much stress on it, that it mushroomed the steering column, and when I put the wheel back on, I had to get a die and rethread the column. Went back together much easier.

                As far as restoring it yourself, the smooth areas are cleaned out, filled with JB Weld, and then smoothed with a body file, sanded primed and painted. Epoxy spray paint might do the trick as far as painting it.


                • #9
                  On my 48 I took 2 pieces of 5/16 all thread and bent them in a U shape to go around the bottom of the steering wheel. Took a piece of 3/8 plate drilled 4 3/8 holes and one threaded 1/2 inch hole in the center put brass shims between the allthread and the wheel. Backed the nut off the column didn't take it all the way off made a plug to fit inside the column soaked it real good and started screwing. Tap it with a dead blow a few times and presto. Those holes on the inside of the wheel would'nt hold anything. And there is a spring in there watch out. That's the way us Oklahoma hill people do it.

                  7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
                  Middle Tennessee 37th Annual Car Show April 4 2009


                  • #10
                    my 51 wouldn't come off when I first tried so I loosened the nut and drove it awhile. When I tried it months later it came loose first try. I bought a parts car for the wheel that wouldn't come off and I didn't want to risk damaging it, so I made a puller by cutting an old disc brake rotor from a k-car in half and drilling a couple holes in it. I put plates across the halves and it fit perfectly behind the wheel hub. I then just pulled on that with a gear puller and it came right off.


                    • #11
                      thanks for all the ideas ,it is to bad to repair on the colum it is missing parts of the wheel if anyone knowes someone that has one for sale i would be veary grateful.thanks again to everyone bill