I have yellow submarine c cab running. I have to get tires. I have 6 lug x 16 on my 3/4 ton. The truck came with 4 different size tires on it. I found a place to change them. What is best size for these. I think i will still need tubes and wheel liners? Would rather be a little more educated before I go. Any help very much appreciated.
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That Old Tire Size will cross over to a Modern/Current Truck Tire size like: LT215/85R16 Load Range "E" Radial.
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...omCompare1=yesStudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Rick,
You missed one of the most important measurements: rim width. I could hazard a guess that it is probably 5" to 6" in width. Also, are the wheels solid or split configuration? Yes. Install new liners as well as tubes for trouble free performance and service. Most likely Rich's suggestion of LT215/85r16 will be the closest match. Although LT 235/85r16 will fit, it may be a little on the tall size which will adversely affect the final drive ratio depending on your application(harder on the clutch starting out).
Bill
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Originally posted by Buzzard View PostRick,
You missed one of the most important measurements: rim width. I could hazard a guess that it is probably 5" to 6" in width. Also, are the wheels solid or split configuration? Yes. Install new liners as well as tubes for trouble free performance and service. Most likely Rich's suggestion of LT215/85r16 will be the closest match. Although LT 235/85r16 will fit, it may be a little on the tall size which will adversely affect the final drive ratio depending on your application(harder on the clutch starting out).
Bill
Yes, tubes and liners are required.
I've run Michelins; the first set lasted 30 years and were only removed because the sidewalls were checking. The second set has been on for ten years and show no wear. A hobby Studebaker 3/4-ton would never, ever wear out the tread. It's the same tire size UPS used to use on their delivery trucks.
Yes, Michelins are expensive, about $230 each but they're also the best. Because my E12 with the Packard V8 occasionally sees some speed, I went with the good stuff. Most 3/4-ton C-cabs seldom see 70 MPH and then seldom for long stretches. There are some Asian tires at half the cost which might fill the need; your money, your tires, your decision.
Suggestion - while the old tires are off, have the wheels and lock rings sandblasted and powder coated.
One caveat, switching from the old 6.50 x 16" bias plies to 215/85R16" radials will double the steering effort. I drove for thirty years without power steering and learned to look for a parking place I could pull into and then pull out. Parallel parking on hot asphalt will be hard on the arms and on the steering gear.
jack vinesLast edited by PackardV8; 11-07-2022, 11:59 AM.PackardV8
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Guys, thanks for all the input. I am Michelin fan as well. My truck currently has 6.5 x 16, 7.5 x 16, 235 70 r 16 and a 255 70 r 16. So the previous owner wanted 1 of each I guess i have located a tire store with a guy that has been there forever. He has been a great help. I am looking at tgex215/85.
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Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
Bill and I agree on most things auto and Studebaker related, but in this case I have the personal experience. The two-piece wheels are 5" and only the 215/85R16 fit correctly.
Yes, tubes and liners are required.
I've run Michelins; the first set lasted 30 years and were only removed because the sidewalls were checking. The second set has been on for ten years and show no wear. A hobby Studebaker 3/4-ton would never, ever wear out the tread. It's the same tire size UPS used to use on their delivery trucks.
Yes, Michelins are expensive, about $230 each but they're also the best. Because my E12 with the Packard V8 occasionally sees some speed, I went with the good stuff. Most 3/4-ton C-cabs seldom see 70 MPH and then seldom for long stretches. There are some Asian tires at half the cost which might fill the need; your money, your tires, your decision.
Suggestion - while the old tires are off, have the wheels and lock rings sandblasted and powder coated.
One caveat, switching from the old 6.50 x 16" bias plies to 215/85R16" radials will double the steering effort. I drove for thirty years without power steering and learned to look for a parking place I could pull into and then pull out. Parallel parking on hot asphalt will be hard on the arms and on the steering gear.
jack vines
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"One caveat, switching from the old 6.50 x 16" bias plies to 215/85R16" radials will double the steering effort"
...... another issue can be steering gears and wheels. The radials will put different pressure on the (Ross) steering gear and the wheels (rims). When I bought my 62' Champ truck in 1990 the owner had been towing a 64' GT Hawk show car all over the country and driving it weekly. Upon inspection, 3 of the 4 rims had cracks around the lug openings. The steering wheel needed 3-4 inches of movement to start the front tires moving. I got 5 rims, a steering gear and pitman arm from Tom K. out near South Bend from a totalled 27K mile truck. I think I paid $200. to Mass. Cost double that to install everything. Upon inspection of the removed parts was found a cracked pitman arm (welded), a very ruined steering gear, and the mentioned rim damage. Not to mention an 11 inch (original ) clutch with welded and worn linkages. I was lucky to have an old school clutch shop that adjusted the springs in the PP and I did find NOS linkages. It then became a nice truck.
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I have a set of four new Michelin LT215/85R16 tires I just took off my 62 Champ on original one piece Studebaker wheels with hub caps that I would sell if you can figure out transport. I am going to 17" aluminum wheels. I will be in North Carolina over Thanksgiving.
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OK, guys I am ready to throw in the towel on lock ring wheels. I got the bad news today from tire place that 3 out of 4 are to rusty to risk. I do not particular care for wheel adapters, but I want to drive the truck. Does anyone have suggestions for what wheel to adapt to. I have 4 8 lug alum wheels off a chevy 3/4 ton chassis. The custom adapter to this 8 lug config will make the adapter 1-1/2 thick. Going from 6 to 6 on 5.5 will be 1 thick. This seems like a better option. I realize new wheel size depend on backspacing. I could use some guidance if anyone has experience.
I am going to keep eyes out at Turkey Run.
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If you haven't already, I would try posting your question on Stude Truck Talk. This issue is unique to Stude trucks, and has been discussed there repeatedly. The site has a pretty good search function. and there are also some truck tire/wheel experts that hang out there. (5) STUDEBAKER TRUCK TALK - A forum for any messages related to Studebaker Trucks (tapatalk.com)Skip Lackie
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