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How do you lift the front end of a Silver Hawk

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  • Front Axle / Front Suspension: How do you lift the front end of a Silver Hawk

    Hello to everyone. Hope you are all well. I have a stupid question. I'm doing some work on my 1957 Silver Hawk and need to lift the front of the car off the ground ( actually it is on a 4 post lift). I put a large scissor jack on the main engine crossover slightly to the left side ( I only need to lift one side at a time) and I put another scissor jack under the lower A arm. So, I used 2 jacks . For safety I block with 4 x 4 and 2 x 4 wood. (my lift allows me to lift in the middle via a strong cross member). There doesn't seem to be a flat place under the the front of this car to lift against ! I was curious what other members with this car lifted against. I tried searching the forum but I could not find anything on this subject. Even the main crossover is not flat on the bottom. I got the job done just fine but I would appreciate any input. Dan

  • #2
    I've had this floor jack cross beam for longer than I can remember and use it for lifting the front end of most vehicles I've owned. Because it will install under both lower A-arms you don't need to lift far to get the wheels off the ground.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...eam-64051.html

    Bob

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    • #3
      The Center Steering Pivot Housing casting in the center of the Main # 1 Crossmember is the usual lift point with a Jack.
      If your Hoist has the Lifting cross Beam, the Jack goes there. It is a lot easier to lift the whole front end than what you are trying to do.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        Thanks to all-----I will check out the Harbor Freight cross beam. Looks like it would come in handy for a lot of lifting jobs.
        To StudeRich---Thanks again. My scissor jack is rated at 1500 lbs so I lifted the one side but I am headed to the store as we speak to get a stronger jack that will lift the entire front of the car with no problems. I figured the motor alone weighs about 700 or so I'm guessing maybe 2000lbs for the front of the car? I actually had a scissor jack fail on me one time and the car came down fast ! The nut just stripped out. Fortunately I would never get under a car with just a scissor jack and nothing else, so I was not injured. This might be a good time to remind everyone to be very careful when working under a car. My father was killed when a car fell on him. He had nothing but a jack (no stands or wood blocks) and it cost him his life. God Bless---Dan---Thanks again

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Dan Ward View Post
          Thanks to all-----I will check out the Harbor Freight cross beam. Looks like it would come in handy for a lot of lifting jobs.
          To StudeRich---Thanks again. My scissor jack is rated at 1500 lbs so I lifted the one side but I am headed to the store as we speak to get a stronger jack that will lift the entire front of the car with no problems. I figured the motor alone weighs about 700 or so I'm guessing maybe 2000lbs for the front of the car? I actually had a scissor jack fail on me one time and the car came down fast ! The nut just stripped out. Fortunately I would never get under a car with just a scissor jack and nothing else, so I was not injured. This might be a good time to remind everyone to be very careful when working under a car. My father was killed when a car fell on him. He had nothing but a jack (no stands or wood blocks) and it cost him his life. God Bless---Dan---Thanks again
          Yes, I was about to say that you should never do this without jack stands. PLEASE make sure there are safety measures in place.
          I dont know if "4 x 4 and 2 x 4 wood" mean that you have created square stands to put under the car or not. But just in case and to reiterate: a floor jack is for lifting only.

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          • #6
            Yes---Always use good quality stands. I keep some short pieces of 4 x 4 and 6 x 6 treated posts around and I usually will block the frame with those in addition to the stands. (just in case)
            Thanks

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            • #7
              sweetolbob ... thanks for the link! I was not aware of this cross beam at HF. It looks like what I need for the planar suspension (1939). The '39 has a heavy crossmember for the transverse spring to mount...which looks like an ideal place for lifting to get the wheels off the floor. But the factory shop manual does not recommend lifting there. When lifting on the crossmember, it puts excessive torsional rotation in the upper rubber bushings as the wheels drop down. They recommend a beam similar to what is in your link. This beam keeps the bushings in its neutral state. I wonder how many later models the factory recommends this beam for lifting the wheels off the floor?

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              • #8
                I think I have one of those cross beams but where it is now is any ones guess! i do want to add my 2 cents though on this. When you do have your jack stands under the steering knuckles on the suspension. This will keep the body lined up just in case you have to open a front door. (the car will think it's still on all 4 wheels!)
                59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                64 Zip Van
                66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                • #9
                  Some of this discussion is sounding a bit risky. I have a 3,000 lb floor jack. I put the saddle under the center of the big front cross member and jack it up. Then always use non-Harbor Freight jack stands. FYI: a lot of Harbor Freight stuff is just down right dangerous. Safety of Americans is not a real high priority with the Chi-coms.

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