Brakes: Studebaker Avanti front wheel cylinders

[Hawklover]

Just looking for a consensus of opinion here.......assume that you need to replace all four cylinders.............do you go with those as sold by Studebaker International, or those sold on Parts Geek? The Parts Geek version is made by Nissan I believe (Sumatomo) the Stude Int'l is made by Dunlap??? Please educate me.

Thanks

[Jeffry Cassel]

In spite of what Studebaker disc brake fans say (blinded by brand loyalty!) these brakes are not very good. I've owned a couple and you just want to be real careful you do not get too close to the car in front of you. My Avanti's previous owner did and busted up a lot of fiberglass. (Didn't hurt the other car at all.) If I were you I would do a lot of research and switch to the best system available. I am big on originality but in this case safety trumps original.

[solar]

I don't agree, had a 78 and it stopped fine.

[StudeRich]

They are all the same (Datsun, Toyota, Mercedes Benz, Jaguar), Sumatomo Replacement Cylinders for no longer available Bendix/Dunlap, Just make sure you get the Correct 1 1/8".

[Warren Webb]

If I had to replace calipers again I would first look into having the original ones sleeved in stainless vs. changing it over to a Turner Brake setup.
with Jim Turners setup you are able to go upscale by using his budget kit, then get slotted rotors & high performance pads. Lot's of choices & thankfully, we have some great vendors to make things the way we want & like!

[Hawklover]

In spite of what Studebaker disc brake fans say (blinded by brand loyalty!) these brakes are not very good. I've owned a couple and you just want to be real careful you do not get too close to the car in front of you. My Avanti's previous owner did and busted up a lot of fiberglass. (Didn't hurt the other car at all.) If I were you I would do a lot of research and switch to the best system available. I am big on originality but in this case safety trumps original.

Jeff I have driven the car since early 1967 with no issues, that being said I am a very anal individual and have maintained the car as few others have. Candidly the car is driven very little as compared to its use back in the day.........maybe its driven 300 miles per year at most. When you say the brakes are not very good, I would love if you could expand upon that statement........properly maintained I can not see how I put myself in danger when I get behind the wheel? Candidly the only modern safety upgrade that I undertook was the installation of a two chamber master cylinder, it was good to do, as the single master developed a leak, and it was prudent to put in that two chamber example. I appreciate your candid thoughts.

[Hawklover]

They are all the same (Datsun, Toyota, Mercedes Benz, Jaguar), Sumatomo Replacement Cylinders for no longer available Bendix/Dunlap, Just make sure you get the Correct 1 1/8".

Rich you mean 2 and 1/8 no? Oh any great benefit to going to 2 and 1/4?

[Hawklover]

If I had to replace calipers again I would first look into having the original ones sleeved in stainless vs. changing it over to a Turner Brake setup.
with Jim Turners setup you are able to go upscale by using his budget kit, then get slotted rotors & high performance pads. Lot's of choices & thankfully, we have some great vendors to make things the way we want & like!

Funny you said that, about 35 years ago I replaced all 4 with SS sleeved, but!.........I did have an issue with a dragging drivers side brake.........I had to remove the cylinder only to discover that the piston "tit" was mushroomed over and presented release problems, I did manage to "manipulate" said "tit" and fit a new pad............after that no dragging wheel.

[64studeavanti]

Just put 4 Sumitomo from parts geek on one of the Avantis. They fit and work just like original. They even have the same SAE, not metric, fittings. I used the 2 1/8" version. Some say you could "upgrade" to the 2 1/4" for more stopping power.

I do plan on having the original Bendix calipers sleeved for authenticity sake.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Be aware that sleeving a disc brake cylinder has some complications that would never occur in a sleeved drum brake wheel cylinder. Namely, it is possible for the brake fluid pressure to push the sleeve OUT of the cylinder.
Personally, I have been selling and using the Sumitomo cylinders for over 40 years with never an issue.

[firestoper 25]

I don't know guys, I have had British sports cars for decades and never had issues with their style of disk brakes. Yes, I maintained them right to the 'T' of the manufactures recommendations and like all products they have their specific needs but nothing out of the ordinary for brake systems.
So when I get around to old 63R1089's brake needs I will step up with the Jag 2 1/4 " S.S. pucks.....bigger IS better. A dual master cylinder, CuNi hard lines S.S. braided flex lines, EBC yellow stuff pads, auto check valve bleeders, etc. are laying in the garage ready for the operation.
I must admit over the winter I am thinking of toying around with a spare set of Buick aluminum brake drums for the rear system....why (?) ,because I don't have enough on my plate I would guess.
As a famous member of this forum says "your results may vary".

[mbstude]

Be aware that sleeving a disc brake cylinder has some complications that would never occur in a sleeved drum brake wheel cylinder. Namely, it is possible for the brake fluid pressure to push the sleeve OUT of the cylinder.

I’ve seen this first hand, just once.

Once was enough.

[64studeavanti]

Excuse my ignorance, but how does using a 2 1/4" caliper provide more braking power than 2 1/8"? The pads are the same size. It would seem to me that the larger caliper would generate less pressure on the pad.

[firestoper 25]

The S.S. Jag 2 1/4 " puck's came from a friend who had them left over from his 'Jag' day's (read that FREE) & .

[Steve Winzar]

Excuse my ignorance, but how does using a 2 1/4" caliper provide more braking power than 2 1/8"? The pads are the same size. It would seem to me that the larger caliper would generate less pressure on the pad.

It's really about what your leg feels when you brake. A larger piston will feel easier to depress (it also requires a longer pedal stroke to do this because the volume increases). A better analogy might be to consider what ladies' stiletto heels do to linoleum versus a mans shoe heel- which one makes the impression in the lino?

[go-studebaker]

Steve,
there's a guy here in the UK that makes a replacement disc brake unit for the early Jaguars. They are called Coopercraft International.

It's about £450.00 for a set. You have to do a slight modification to the mounting bracket to grind off a little metal to get it to fit, but they are far better than the 4 Bendix ones that are original.
Taking a little meat off the mounting bracket where they clash wont affect the strength of that mounting bracket in any way. You might even get a 20% discount as they will be VAT free if being exported from the UK.

They stop far better than the original ones and work with your original rotors.

So if you are driving normally the Coopercraft ones are the best and probably your cheapest option.

If you are hooning and stopping from 120mph every 5 minutes then perhaps a set of Turner discs would be an option.

I just wouldn't bother with the original Bendix pots any more now I have used the Coopercraft cylinders. They rarely need re building like the original ones do either and will probably see you out.

Regards
Greg