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Return on wheel cylinders.

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  • Return on wheel cylinders.

    It seems the right front wheel cylinder isn't returning properly. The springs (2) look all right. Question is, what are each called. There's a large one on the top of the shoes, return spring? Then a smaller one at the very bottom of the shoes.

    The brakes look like they were re-done. Still, that could have been a very long time ago.

    The truck is a '62 Champ. The cowl number is 7E T6. The vin starts with E7.

    So, any suggestions?


    Lotsa Larks!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
    K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
    Ron Smith
    Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

  • #2
    Brake fluid has a nasty habit of absorbing moisture, which then settles out in bottom of the master and brake cylinders. Rust forms and cylinders have a way of either not moving at all or expanding but not contracting (especially disc brakes). The best thing to do is to take things apart, clean and if necessary, hone the cylinders and install new cups (they're still readily avalible at NAPA, etc), remove the old fluid from the master cylinder and flush everything out with new.

    I'll be the first to admit that I don't flush things out as often as I should, but I have done so regularly on my bike and 27 years later the brakes still work great. I've never replaced seals or anything and the aluminum calipers bikes use are very bad for corroding when water is present.

    Comment


    • #3
      Clunk,

      Your Champ is a model 7E7 That means it's a '62 truck (hence the 7E) - that's a half ton which came with a V8 (hence the 7).

      The upper spring is the "return spring" and the lower one is the "anchor spring". The return spring is the only one that does any real moving as the brakes are used.

      Quick and dirty fix - leave that drum off and remove the shoes. Work the brake pedal and blow out one of the pucks. Drive the other puck out manually and clean up the cylinder bore best you can - not necessarliy perfect. Clean the metal pucks up and the spring, if you're gonna reuse it.
      Get some new cups of the right size - 1" bore OR... (NAPA wheel cylinder kit # 106) put this back in the cleaned up cylinder with some brake lube or some silicone grease. Reinstall everything else and bleed - the brakes that is - not your knuckles again!

      Miscreant adrift in
      the BerStuda Triangle!!

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe

      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah, you know me Mr. Biggs. I've never got it into my head that blood makes poor grease. I keep trying to leave bits of my fingers and knuckles all over the motor, behind the dash, in the brakes, etc...[B)] Sorry.[:I] Way too much personal information, I'm sure.[8)]

        So, Just basically clean out the cylinder? Ok, I'll try it this afternoon. Looks like I'll need another container of brake fluid.

        I believe someone said the brakes are similar all round on these? So is the spring the same? At $32 bucks, it's not change to me, still might be a good investment. If the cylinders are the same all round, then it might be a good idea to do all four?




        Lotsa Larks!
        K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
        Ron Smith
        Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
        K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
        Ron Smith
        Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

        Comment


        • #5
          Ron, if the springs aren't broken, I wouldn't spend the money. Further, in a perfect, money-is-no-object world, you'd summarily do whatever it took to make the wheel cylinders like new again. Either you'd find them pretty and flawlessly honed once you ran a hone thru them or you'd send them out to be sleeved. That said, if you clean them up and there's only light erosion, I personally wouldn't hesitate to do as I said in my earlier post.
          If the cylinders showed some nasty, deep pitting, I'd have to think again. The new cups aren't gonna seat well enough to cover for deep, eroded pits in the cylinder walls.
          "But , but, it didn't leak before I took it apart!"

          "yeah, that's because those pits were well impacted with crud. Crud that actually sorta served as part of the cylinder wall - prior to you cleaning it away."

          I did a quick check and to my surprize, SASCO still has these. Stude #s 684606 & 684607 They're about 50-some apiece.
          Likewise, NAPA says they're a good number with them too. There's a left and a right (speaking fronts here) NAPA United # 8379 & 8380

          Miscreant adrift in
          the BerStuda Triangle!!

          1957 Transtar 1/2ton
          1960 Larkvertible V8
          1958 Provincial wagon
          1953 Commander coupe

          No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

          Comment


          • #6
            Forgive me for being dense. It's a condition I've suffered all my life. That said...

            quote:I did a quick check and to my surprize, SASCO still has these. Stude #s 684606 & 684607 They're about 50-some apiece.
            Likewise, NAPA says they're a good number with them too. There's a left and a right (speaking fronts here) NAPA United # 8379 & 8380
            Wheel cylinders? At Napa? Wow.
            quotespeaking fronts here)
            So I take it the fronts are different from the back?

            quote:They're about 50-some apiece.
            Assuming you are talking about Wheel Cylinders, that's fifty-some dollars? So to replace all four would be about two hundred fifty dollars or so?

            Sorry about splitting pennies, on unemployment I have to be careful.


            Just got off the phone with NAPA. They said that 8379 was a belt and 8380 was a drive-shaft. Were those the full numbers?


            Lotsa Larks!
            K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
            Ron Smith
            Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
            K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
            Ron Smith
            Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

            Comment


            • #7
              Did you tell those dunderheads that those were brake parts??? NAPA's house brand brake parts are "United" Tell them to check United numbers 8379 & 8370. I CALLED my local NAPA and asked if those numbers were good before I posted the info! They DID say they'd have to order them - they weren't in stock locally.

              And, NO - the rears don't mimic the fronts. Same diameter drums and shoes, but the rear cylinders are only 7/8ths inch whereas the fronts are one inch.
              My old NAPA brake parts book shows rears not available so you'd have to hope that SASCO or SI or some other vendor had them.
              BTW, the rears are the same - no left and right. Looking at SI's catalog... OUCH![xx(] $92-somthing apiece!!!! on those rears! Stude part number 684608

              Miscreant adrift in
              the BerStuda Triangle!!

              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
              1960 Larkvertible V8
              1958 Provincial wagon
              1953 Commander coupe

              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

              Comment


              • #8
                If you have no luck at NAPA any Stude vendor out your way should be able to get them as our wholesale supplier shows them in his book.
                Frank van Doorn
                Omaha, Ne.
                1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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