Folks,
With due respect, not everyone is 100% familiar with (1) what spot to ask a question or (2) how many times in the past a similar topic has been covered.
In an attempt to either resolve issues I am having, no matter which part of the car it pertains to, I am trying best to reach out to those that have experienced similar problems or might anticipate their own future need to do something and hope to get positive remarks vs negative.
Not the place to air this? Where else is one supposed to do so pointing out the obvious for some are new....don't have thousands of posts behind them and expressly hope for good return in order to get my car on the road in running condition.
Mushy brakes on a 1957 Golden Hawk.
1) I have done brake repair in my past covering over 50 years but until now had never done a conversion to a disc brake system.
2) I have had for over 30 years a "kit" to do manual bleeding that involves a small bottle to fill, a means to place it on top of the MC and a bag to put bled fluid in to (yes I went to a bottle later on.
3) I have worked solo and in the past have had success with anything from a 37 Coupe express to a 57 Silverhawk, not to mention newer Chevy products to have a relatively good idea of how to bleed the brakes.
4) Until now, I had not installed a residual -or- proportional valve after the MC location so if asking it's to get an understanding about flow. Yes, I am 99.9% sure those valves are installed correctly.
5) I broke down after looking at YouTube video's to research which "pneumatic" type brake bleeder might work best to speed up my bleeding of brakes after the manual bleed didn't work.
6) I found the proportional valve was NOT opened 100% so did so
7) In using the larger HF unit selling for $89 I had to increase PSI to 110 in order to get the vacuum to draw fluid IN TO the tank
8) I have NOT been able to use a fill bottle on top of the 2 bay Raybestos MC36237 due to the clip on top and for NOT having installed the remote reservoir that some say to not use...I have easy access to the top of the MC in its current position to simply reach in and put fluid in "prior to" the level dropping below necessary to prevent air sucking in.
9) J.T. has been responsive despite my having started this project in February that began with questioning if to stay with the drum brake setup for both front and rear.
With other things going on (life in general) that included prep work for cleaning/sand-blasting the OEM rims, finding wheel spacers, etc. it wasn't until early June that I began working on the brakes from running for brake lines, looking for fittings, etc.
10) In using the HF $89 bleeder, I have moderated how the bleeder screw opens but in getting suction and fluid does flow, there is a lot of air.
11) With what leaked to the floor when I had not tightened banjo bolts to the calipers or to the drivers side junction block and tightened 2 brake lines further, at the present time there appear to be "zero" leaks.
12) I have adjusted the brake lever push rod to the front of the MC adequately for full pedal stroke.
13) As of 8/1/2022 after over an hour filling/refilling the rear chamber to the MC I switched to the front brakes that is (to me) a separate chamber and negates the need to do the right rear first then going to the drivers side rear. I
Independent of one another I wanted to see what would bleed out of the line.
Same thing...fluid at 110 PSI but air as well.
14) To those using a pneumatic bleeder no matter if the lesser $ one or the more expensive, HF or Eastwood or anyone else, what PSI level did you find adequate to push the fluid
15) If using a pneumatic bleeder, did you seal around the bleeder screw to possibly limit air leakage? I have seen grease used but...dislike that thought.
Granted air or mishap can be a leaking line, a blocked line but I have fluid from all (4) calipers.
It could be a bad MC or caliper piston? But still, if all 4 wheels are similar and can not build up pressure...
16) at the end of the day and you have a good, working conversion with disc brakes...whether the front only or both front/rear, what pedal pressure do you have?
Mine goes to the floor!
As in my before posts, thank you to all of you who take the time to read thru my lengthy postings. Your help is and has been appreciated.
It is difficult moving on to the next project when this one has turned in to a literal nightmare and puh-lease....don't add insult to the injury by saying I should "scrap" the rear brake setup and return to drums only...After a $750 investment that bite is a bite!
With due respect, not everyone is 100% familiar with (1) what spot to ask a question or (2) how many times in the past a similar topic has been covered.
In an attempt to either resolve issues I am having, no matter which part of the car it pertains to, I am trying best to reach out to those that have experienced similar problems or might anticipate their own future need to do something and hope to get positive remarks vs negative.
Not the place to air this? Where else is one supposed to do so pointing out the obvious for some are new....don't have thousands of posts behind them and expressly hope for good return in order to get my car on the road in running condition.
Mushy brakes on a 1957 Golden Hawk.
1) I have done brake repair in my past covering over 50 years but until now had never done a conversion to a disc brake system.
2) I have had for over 30 years a "kit" to do manual bleeding that involves a small bottle to fill, a means to place it on top of the MC and a bag to put bled fluid in to (yes I went to a bottle later on.
3) I have worked solo and in the past have had success with anything from a 37 Coupe express to a 57 Silverhawk, not to mention newer Chevy products to have a relatively good idea of how to bleed the brakes.
4) Until now, I had not installed a residual -or- proportional valve after the MC location so if asking it's to get an understanding about flow. Yes, I am 99.9% sure those valves are installed correctly.
5) I broke down after looking at YouTube video's to research which "pneumatic" type brake bleeder might work best to speed up my bleeding of brakes after the manual bleed didn't work.
6) I found the proportional valve was NOT opened 100% so did so
7) In using the larger HF unit selling for $89 I had to increase PSI to 110 in order to get the vacuum to draw fluid IN TO the tank
8) I have NOT been able to use a fill bottle on top of the 2 bay Raybestos MC36237 due to the clip on top and for NOT having installed the remote reservoir that some say to not use...I have easy access to the top of the MC in its current position to simply reach in and put fluid in "prior to" the level dropping below necessary to prevent air sucking in.
9) J.T. has been responsive despite my having started this project in February that began with questioning if to stay with the drum brake setup for both front and rear.
With other things going on (life in general) that included prep work for cleaning/sand-blasting the OEM rims, finding wheel spacers, etc. it wasn't until early June that I began working on the brakes from running for brake lines, looking for fittings, etc.
10) In using the HF $89 bleeder, I have moderated how the bleeder screw opens but in getting suction and fluid does flow, there is a lot of air.
11) With what leaked to the floor when I had not tightened banjo bolts to the calipers or to the drivers side junction block and tightened 2 brake lines further, at the present time there appear to be "zero" leaks.
12) I have adjusted the brake lever push rod to the front of the MC adequately for full pedal stroke.
13) As of 8/1/2022 after over an hour filling/refilling the rear chamber to the MC I switched to the front brakes that is (to me) a separate chamber and negates the need to do the right rear first then going to the drivers side rear. I
Independent of one another I wanted to see what would bleed out of the line.
Same thing...fluid at 110 PSI but air as well.
14) To those using a pneumatic bleeder no matter if the lesser $ one or the more expensive, HF or Eastwood or anyone else, what PSI level did you find adequate to push the fluid
15) If using a pneumatic bleeder, did you seal around the bleeder screw to possibly limit air leakage? I have seen grease used but...dislike that thought.
Granted air or mishap can be a leaking line, a blocked line but I have fluid from all (4) calipers.
It could be a bad MC or caliper piston? But still, if all 4 wheels are similar and can not build up pressure...
16) at the end of the day and you have a good, working conversion with disc brakes...whether the front only or both front/rear, what pedal pressure do you have?
Mine goes to the floor!
As in my before posts, thank you to all of you who take the time to read thru my lengthy postings. Your help is and has been appreciated.
It is difficult moving on to the next project when this one has turned in to a literal nightmare and puh-lease....don't add insult to the injury by saying I should "scrap" the rear brake setup and return to drums only...After a $750 investment that bite is a bite!
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