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  • Brakes: Bleeder screws

    Does anyone have any experience with bleeder screws with check valves? I need 4 and do not want to get another part that doesn't work! I'd really appreciate any advice. Bleeding Studebaker Hawk brakes is like pushing water uphill.

  • #2
    I've used Speed Bleeders. They work OK, though I'm not convinced that some air doesn't get back in along the threads. They only need to be loosened about 1/4 turn, maybe even less. I usually combine a hand-operated vacuum pump attached to the bleed screw. That way, I can be at the wheel, start pulling vacuum on the bleed screw, then open it a little while pumping the vacuum pump. With clear tubing to the screw, you can see the air bubbles come out and any old, dirty fluid. You just need to order the right size bleeders - see this table:

    http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

    I'm also convinced that brake bleeding is not a one-person job. Even a young child can learn "push pedal, hold, release".
    Gary Ash
    Dartmouth, Mass.

    '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
    ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
    '48 M5
    '65 Wagonaire Commander
    '63 Wagonaire Standard
    web site at http://www.studegarage.com

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    • #3
      I replaced the entire brakes system on my 62 Hawk GT and used speed bleeders. One man job. Used an auto fill fluid bottle to keep master cylinder filled to proper level during bleeding. Ran a hose from bleed screw to a catch bottle partially filled with fluid. Moved from furthest to closest brake cylinder to bleed system. Used Bosch ESI6-32N brake fluid. Quick and easy operation and brake system bled fine and operates nice. No back flow so open screw and pump pedal a few times and go back and close screw; move to next one. With all new brake system it was easy. Also, using stainless braid covered flex lines really help with good firm pedal operation.

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      • #4
        Thanks guys. I'll give them a try.

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