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winterizing my stude....

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  • winterizing my stude....

    Grandpa handed down his 52 Champion to me, but I have little or no time to spend 'playing' with it as I have two little ones running around (9 month old and 3 year old girls). Other than taking it out for a spin once every couple of months, the stude sits quietly in my garage.
    I'm wondering what recommendations there are for winterizing/storing? Should I be draining the gas or putting in fuel stabilizer? Pulling the battery? Putting it up on jack stands? It's due for me to change the oil...someone mentioned to me to add "Mystery Oil" when I this wise? Should I be at least starting it up once a month, or is that even helpful?
    I'm a novice when it comes to working on cars and hope to have time in the future (probably when the girls are teenagers and Dad is 'oh so stupid'!), so any suggestions would be welcomed.
    1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
    1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)

  • #2
    Check this very home page and look for the tech tips section.

    Brooklet, Georgia
    '37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
    '37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
    '61 Hawk (project)

    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain

    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)


    • #3
      Hey Oregon, welcome to the group. Are you an SDC member yet? There's a full page in the "Co-operator" column in November's Turning Wheels that discusses just this question.

      If you don't have that issue, here's the highlights:

      - Wax the whole car.

      - Fill the gas tank and add Sta-Bil (you can get it at any Pep Boys) to keep the gas from going sour while it's stored.

      - Do an oil change and chassis lube.

      - Drain the cooling system and fill it up with fresh anti-freeze.

      - Get a can of fogging oil (see Start the engine and sprain it into the carb for about 30 seconds while it's running.

      - Put some plastic bags (like Ziploc sandwich bags) over the tailpipes and the carburetor to keep air from getting in and rusting things. Put the air cleaner back on.

      The TW article also recommends putting the car on jack stands front and rear, but as other posts here on the forum recently have noted, it's really rare for modern radial tires to develop flat spots. (If you've still got old bias-ply tires on the car, though, you'll want to put it up.)

      Hope this helps and, again, welcome to the forum!


      Clark in San Diego
      '63 F2/Lark Standard

      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" |


      • #4
        Thanks for the ideas...I am a member, and ironically, just recieved my Novemeber issue in the mail today! (mail moves slowly out west sometimes). Thanks again
        1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
        1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)


        • #5
          I can't prove it but I have been told the it is a good idea to put plastic under each tire to keep water from working itself into the steel belts and rusting . It may be true because I blew a camper tire and the belts were rusted.


          • #6
            There's also the previously posted suggestion of tossing a few sheets of Bounce inside to repel the moths, mice and creepy-crawlies.

            Brad Johnson
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            33 Rockne 10
            51 Commander Starlight
            53 Commander Starlight

            previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"


            • #7
              As far as running it every few months, you need to either take it out for a good long drive and get the oil throughly warm or not run it at all. Starting it up and letting it run in the garage for 10 minutes is going to cause a lot of moisture to collect in the crankcase. In cold weather, the oil temp on my air cooled bike rarely exceeds 140 degrees and after a few 10 mile runs, there's a milky residue on the oil sight glass from emulsified moisture in the oil.


              • #8
                Don't forget to check what temperature your anti-freeze mixture can stand.