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Is 1950 Hurd versus Yale door lock rotation different?

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  • Body / Glass: Is 1950 Hurd versus Yale door lock rotation different?

    I have a 1950 Commander and don't have door keys so I bought a set of Hurd lock cylinders purportedly for Studebaker of this era. I couldn't find them from normal sellers so bought off Ebay.

    The lock cylinders I bought are a perfect fit in the door and into the latch assembly. That leads me to believe they were advertised correctly and are for Studebaker. They are labeled HH488.

    After installation I can't make the lock cylinders work correctly. They turn nicely but it is impossible to take the key out after locking the doors as the latch rotation stops before the point where the key will come out of the cylinder. I took the lock mechanism in the latch apart and compared the lock cylinder rotation to the rotation that the latch will allow and found that the lock pawl can't rotate far enough to match the lock cylinders. The fingers on the pawl that grab for lock and unlock would need to be further apart so they could grab later and allow more key rotation.

    The doors are obviously replacements and the lock cylinders I pulled out are Yale. That makes me suspect that I have Champion doors. Looking in the parts book I see different latch assemblies for Champion and Commander so I wonder if the lock rotation is different between Yale and Hurd. Does anybody know?

    Looking at what is available today the vendors all list a single latch assembly that is supposed to work on both Commander and Champion. If the lock cylinder rotation is different it may still be possible to have a latch that works with both but I hate to spend a bunch of money ordering latches that won't work.

    Curtis Ballard
    Eaton, CO

  • #2

    The square shafts on the locks can go into the latch mechanisms four different ways. Yours are probably 90 degrees out, or maybe even 180 degrees out.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 06-25-2022, 08:50 AM.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon


    • #3
      Welcome to the SDC, and to the SDC Forum Curtis!

      If you could have gotten a Studebaker Part Part Number, instead of Hurd, we could tell if you got Real Studebaker Hurd Locks.

      In THIS case I think you probably DID, just mis-clocked as Roy says.
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner


      • #4
        Thanks for the replies. I wish I had searched some more and found a set of Hurd door locks from Studebaker vendors. I found singles but not a matched set.

        I think I got sold the wrong lock cylinders. Interesting that they are a perfect fit but they don't work.

        I pulled the pins from one of the Yale cylinders I removed and compared that cylinder and the Yale cylinders in my 63 Champ to the cylinders I just bought. The total rotation is the same but the cylinders I just bought are set up so that the key can only be removed at either end of travel. The Yale locks from the car look like the key comes out in the middle of travel and my Champ pickup definitely works that way. Turn the key all the way to end of rotation to lock/unlock and then turn back to the center to remove the key with the Champ locks. The cylinders in the Hurd locks I have are 180 degrees off of the Yale cylinders with the back of the key against the pins in the middle of travel instead of the cut side of the key against the pins in the middle of travel. Maybe they are assembled wrong???

        I'm contemplating modifying my Hurd lock cylinders to remove the rotation stop. There is a pin that stops rotation and if I pull it and grind it off then the lock probably will rotate completely around which won't matter once connected into the latch.


        • #5
          My Hurd Locks on my '62 Transtar "C" Cab, rotate 360, but of course like all Ignition and Door Locks, the Key only removes at center, and Cuts always face UP, "Ball" side of Key DOWN.

          Hurd Locks do not operate like Yale's do.
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner


          • #6
            A locksmith can probably change the location at which the key can be removed.


            • #7

              Thanks for the replies and tips. I'm going to call it assembly error by a previous owner. The locks cylinders look new, no key scratches or installation scratches, but must have been worked on.

              I pressed out the pins holding the lock shaft. The pins were pressed in as far as they could go but the other end was sticking out and stopping rotation at 180 degrees. The pins I took out weren't hardened steel so I think they were wrong. One was even bent.

              I got two new hardened steel pins that would press in flush and after installing them the locks turn 360 degrees and are able to be installed with the key removal position in the middle between lock/unlock. I put the driver's door lock in last night and it locks and unlocks just as slick as you please. The cylinder locks or unlocks then returns to the center so you can take the key out.

              The note from StudeRich indicating that their Hurd locks rotated the full 360 helped me figure out I was on the right path suspecting the pins that were stopping rotation.


              • #8
                It's cool that you got it figured out, and thanks for posting the solution.
                Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.