Ignition: Hot Wire Ignition

[Rafe Hollister]

All of a sudden, my key will not turn in the ignition switch. WD-40 and air compressor are to no avail. How do I hot wire this so I can drive it tonight? See attached picture:1) The center terminal is marked "ST" ( I think) . Is that for starter? 2) The top left is ACC (accessories?) 3) the Right is "IGN" (ignition?) 4) the bottom in BAT (battery?
What do I do to drive this? Do I need to ground the switch? I assume I must jump Bat to IGN and ACC first and continually while driving. Then jump BAT to ST to engage the starter?
And yes, I have disconnected the battery! Can the switch be dissassembled and repaired? Any idea what went wrong or how to fix it with with sprays or jiggling? Thanks! Rafe Hollister
PS I want to drive it in the next hour!!

[altair]

Jump a wire from the battery to the coil directly then cross the hot lead on the starter solenoid to actuate the solenoid, just two simple wires and it should start and forget the ignition switch for now. To turn it off you will have to remove the clip wire from the coil. None of the accessories in side will work though while wired this way.

[StudeRich]

Probably too late now, but had to leave the Forum for 2-3 Hrs. sorry.

Stude. Auto Th3ft 101 !

I like this method better because it uses the correct Resistance Wire or Resister in the circuit to the Coil and will not burn the Points.
Plus I think you already have the Ign. Sw. down for good access. And everything like turn signals will work so you can Drive it.

Grab your short 6 Inch Jumper wire with alligator clips on each end or make one. Connect from the Batt. Terminal or wire to the "IGN"Terminal or Wire.

Then with another Jumper wire, just touch it from the Ign. Switch Batt. Term or Wire to the Center Terminal "S" Start until it starts.

When the Switch is out and Bezel removed, you will see the small Pin and the side that has to be pushed in with a Paper Clip when the Key is in place, to remove the Lock Cylinder from the Ignition Switch for replacement.

[Rafe Hollister]

I didn't get any of your advice on time, but had a new spare key. It worked fine and I got to my Swing Dance lesson. Problem solved... bad key. Until...

When I tried to drive home... 5 minutes of jiggling but finally it started. Tomorrow I'm going to take both of your advice so that I will be prepared next time with two different ways to solve the problem.

StudeRich, you recommend just changing out the lock cylinder?

I just was online, looks like an identical ignition switch at AutoZone for 15.00, Dorman. It has mixed reviews, so perhaps I'll look around a bit.

Here is a picture of my coil, Altair, where do I attach the jumper?

[altair]

The jumper would go on the + where the pink wire is, as Richard says this is not the best method if 12 volts, but 6 volt it wouldn't matter. The method I am suggesting is when the key lock assembly is still in place. I don't know if you are 12 volts or 6 volts + or - gnd. Try it until you get it running it will only take a couple of tries, it is a good method to know if you are ever stuck, as Rich says Studebaker the*t 101. I have started a few this way but not for malicious purposes.

[StudeRich]

YES, if the Switch works fine but the Lock Cylinder has worn out Cylinders called Wafers, you can replace just the Cyl. and Keys.

There are No ignition switches that accept the Studebaker Bezel except at Studebaker Vendors.

However there are Lock Cylinders at both Vendors and Parts Stores that fit the Ignition switch you see available everywhere that will work that have Chrysler handle Keys.

The available Ign. Switches are for 70's Dodge and Plymouth Vans and have become THE US Car "Universal" Ign. Sw. currently available.
So if you can deal with an ugly Knurl NUT on your dash instead of the Sharp Looking Chrome, beveled Bezel, and you don't need the Studebaker Regal or top of the line Model Ign. Sw. LIGHT, you have Both choices.

Nowadays, unless you find NOS Auto Parts, 99% of the rest will ALL be Chicom or Taiwan made clones.

[Rafe Hollister]

I bought an ignition Switch at AutoZone for 15 bucks, looks identical to the broken one. But before I put it in I drove it around hot wired for fun. After installing the new one, everything works fine. Including the old ignition switch! I stuck the key in it figuring one day to take it to a locksmith, and it worked, tried it a dozen times. I think SweetPea just wanted some intimacy from me, you think?
Rafe

[StudeRich]

Sounds like you NEVER HAD an Original Studebaker Ign. Sw. to start with, no Chrome Bezel, just a Knurl Nut?