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  • Kickdown problems

    My 63 GT runs up through the gears just fine, however i can't seem to get the kickdown to work. According to the specs, by flooring the accelerator it should shift from third to second anywhere between 60-70 mph. Apparently "overdrive" is not to be confused with the "kickdown'. The carburetor-to-transmission throttle valve linkage seems to be set correct. At any speed from 50mph.if i floor it nothing happens, it just slowly climbs up to speed, no lower gear and no passing power. Anyone familiar with this, i'm open to suggestions
    brianc.

  • #2
    does it work at lower speeds? What rear end do you have? I never liked the way the shop manual explained the kickdown anyway, would have been much easier if they had used RPM rather than MPH

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      I have no idea which rear end it is, i'm assuming it the 3:31. At low speeds it shifts all the way up to third at the speeds called for in the specs. Nothing great at take-off, it'll never spin a tire. However, once in third if i wanted to kickdown to second (say for passing power) nothing!!! Coming down in speed it down shifts properly. It's a 289 2 barrel with the flight-o-matic. The engine runs great, tuned to the tee, great compression. But the car seems anemic when it comes to kickdown.

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      • #4
        but will it kick down at, say, 35-40 MPH?

        nate

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        55 Commander Starlight
        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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        • #5
          No,

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          • #6
            No,

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            • #7
              what transmission?
              i think my kickdown is out of adjustment, it only kicks down when rolling to a stop


              1964 Daytona Wagonaire


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              • #8
                i know what you mean in using the rpm as the best indicator. For example, when i kickdown in second gear pretty well any speed, you would expect to see a gear change and higher rpm's until it shifts back out to second or third. The tach stays at the same lower rpm's before you floored it, and just gradually increases speed. No uuumph! if you know what i mean. What's preventing the transmission from changing? Is it related to the linkage? Would there be an electrical issue? or maybe(God forbid!!!) a transmission problem?

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                • #9
                  can't possibly be an electrical issue, as nothing electrical is involved. I would carefully readjust the entire throttle linkage per the shop manual; if it still doesn't work, then you have to look to other possibilities, unfortunately all internal to the trans.

                  Or, just to test the theory, shorten the linkage up a little bit. If it then kicks down, you know you're on the right track (it'll also make the trans shift later, just so you know.)

                  nate

                  --
                  55 Commander Starlight
                  http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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                  • #10
                    Which would suggest messin with first, assuming that both the carburetor-to-throttle valve and the beelcrank to throttle valve linkages are correct? My line of thought is this; the accelerator to carb opens full, because there's no gear change, the car is sluggish-just drinking gas. Should i suspect the bellcrank linkeage?

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                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by BrianC

                      Which would suggest messing with first, assuming that both the carburetor-to-throttle valve and the bellcrank to throttle valve linkages are correct?/Cut/
                      Don't assume! You start with the Carb. to bellcrank rod per the manual, then the real Trans. adjustment can be made at the throttle pressure adjustment rod (bellcrank to Trans.[Lower] rod).

                      Over time the engine mounts settle and crush eventually, causing the adjustment to get out, if you replaced the engine mounts recently that could cause it, but you probably need to replace them and you may not have to adjust it at all! [^]


                      StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                      SDC Member Since 1967

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                      • #12
                        Interesting point, the motor mounts. I never would have thought that the pressure adj. would be so sensetive. Altough the mounts are cracked on the surfasces and mushroomed a bit, being the original-it's something that i'm going to have to compare to new ones. Where to find their dimensions??? Thanks.

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                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by BrianC

                          /Cut/Altough the mounts are cracked on the surfasces and mushroomed a bit, being the original-/Cut/
                          Brian, there is no use measuring them, if they are 46 years old, there is no doubt that they are shot!
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                          SDC Member Since 1967

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                          • #14
                            So true, no better time than winter to do it.

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                            • #15
                              StudeRich made an important point in the other thread about kickdown (or lack thereof). The throttle linkage with an automatic transmission is spring loaded and it "stretches" to allow the transmission linkage to continue to move when the carburetor is at WOT. If this linkage is rusted up, or has been replaced by linkage without the internal spring, there would be no kickdown.


                              Jim Bradley
                              Lewistown PA
                              '78 Avanti II
                              Jim Bradley
                              Lake Monticello, VA
                              '78 Avanti II
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