Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

GT Hawk steering box problem

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • GT Hawk steering box problem

    I've been puttering on the front suspension rebuild on my 63 GT Hawk project. I have replaced the inner bushings on the A arms, cleaned and inspected all the bearings, bushings and moving parts. My dilema at the moment is a steering box that has a lumpy feel to it as it is turned, in the vise, on the bench. I didn't feel that while driving, but had a very tight, binding center of travel effort. I can adjust that tightness out while on the bench, but hestitate putting the original box back in as it is.
    I purchased a NOS box from a vendor at Spokane in 2005 and was going to put it in until I found it full of rust! I disasseembled and ordered a new set of parts for it. Installed parts. Same lumpy feel that the old original box has. Both are still on the bench!
    Anyone have experiance with this? I haven't done any of this kind of rebuild before.

    Brian

    Brian K. Curtis

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by chocolate turkey

    I've been puttering on the front suspension rebuild on my 63 GT Hawk project. I have replaced the inner bushings on the A arms, cleaned and inspected all the bearings, bushings and moving parts. My dilema at the moment is a steering box that has a lumpy feel to it as it is turned, in the vise, on the bench. I didn't feel that while driving, but had a very tight, binding center of travel effort. I can adjust that tightness out while on the bench, but hestitate putting the original box back in as it is.
    I purchased a NOS box from a vendor at Spokane in 2005 and was going to put it in until I found it full of rust! I disasseembled and ordered a new set of parts for it. Installed parts. Same lumpy feel that the old original box has. Both are still on the bench!
    Anyone have experiance with this? I haven't done any of this kind of rebuild before.

    Brian

    Brian K. Curtis
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Comment


    • #3
      Gord, I was the one who removed the steering wheel with my faithful puller. I don't think that was the cause. I guess the obvious is a damaged race on the shaft as the bearings are new. I did run some fine crocus cloth around the race thinking that there would be visible damage, but couldn't see anything. I think I'll take a closer look! I may be able to clean up any minor flaws with a rasp



      Brian K. Curtis

      Comment


      • #4
        The Ross box is supposed to have a slight tight spot at center. You should be able to feel it on the bench. Setup is explained in the repair manuals.
        Mike M.

        Comment


        • #5
          Does SASCO still not have new units & put them on Ebay now & then ?

          Comment


          • #6
            Having adjusted the box as per shop manual, still got the lumpy feel, plus a lot of play on the original box.
            Thanks for the input, folks. I'll first try cleaning up the bearing race surfaces and go from there. Everything else is new.


            Brian K. Curtis

            Comment


            • #7
              If this is not a show car, you could give some thought to salvaging a Saginaw box from a Lark. Way nicer box and way plentiful, but it requires lengthening the steering wheel shaft, and redrilling one of the frame mounting bolt holes. If you'd like your grand tourer to have that "Italian" straight arm driving position, you can leave the Lark shaft at normal length.

              Comment

              Working...
              X