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  • Horn button wire

    I need to replace the wire going through the center of the steering rod on the 62 Hawk. I don't have an old one to compare, nor was there even one on the car when we bought it, so I don't know what I'm even looking for. The end that comes out at the steering wheel, what does that end look like, can I fabricate one and if so what does the end look like. No problem with the end that comes out at the bottom of the steering rod in the engine compartment and goes to the horn relay.

    I think that Studebaker International sells the correct wire, (part no. 1542003). Does anyone know if this is correct? If so, then I'll buy that and be done with it!!



    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

  • #2
    just get a piece of 16AWG stranded blue wire at your FLAPS and some bullet style crimp connectors, that's all the factory wire is. The steering wheel end is a male bullet, it connects to the little metal ring on the horn switch.

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel
    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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    • #3
      When it comes to horns I think all models are similar. Just rewire it the way the manual says, if you have one. If the horn has never worked, the relay may be bad. In my case, my relay is so rusted over the resistance is through the roof. Either clean the relay up good or buy a new one.

      1951 Commander Land cruiser

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      • #4
        When I got my 62 Hawk I found that I had no horn to toot, PO., had a horn button taped to bottom of column. I got a new switch for the column at SI, got a new wire from Studebakers West, still no horn. One of the horns was missing, the remaining one didn't work. Down to the local pick a part, two horns from a caddie and some minor wiring & mounting bracket rework a horn to tootle again!! Lou Cote [8D]

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        • #5
          The contact at the top of the steering column isn't a bullet connector, (at least in the '50s series) its a turned brass fitting that crimps on the end of the wire. I tried several different home-brew solutions before I broke down and bought a new wire.

          [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
          Tom Bredehoft
          '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
          '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
          (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
          '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
          All Indiana built cars

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          • #6
            I would think that any 'button' type (brass preferred, but any conducting ) metal would work as long as ( being it's a replacement) it will crimp onto the new or existing wire. It also needs to be long enough to extend past the spring into the wire hole. Shoot, (pun intended) a bullet shell would work if it is the correct diameter. Stick the wire into it and pour it full of solder.

            '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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            • #7
              I'm not really sure, it's been too long, but there's gotta be some sort of insulation between the metal end of the wire and the metal of the steering column. I seem to remember some sort of phenolic tube around the brass end.

              [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
              Tom Bredehoft
              '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
              '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
              (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
              '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
              All Indiana built cars

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              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by Tom B

                I'm not really sure, it's been too long, but there's gotta be some sort of insulation between the metal end of the wire and the metal of the steering column. I seem to remember some sort of phenolic tube around the brass end.
                you are correct, but that is only true up to 1956 I believe. the later ones (any car with a 2-spoke wheel) the wire just came out the end of the column and the bullet attached to the little horn switch assembly.

                nate

                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                • #9
                  Guess I am assuming that insulated wire will be used. It would be rather, hmm, thinking of nice word, less than smart to use uninsulated, bare wire. The insulation prevents electronic contact with the steering column. The area of the spring and button, on my 50, is contained for movement within the non-conductive steering wheel hub.

                  '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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                  • #10
                    I pulled the horn ring off the Hawk. The horn switch has a black wire with a bullet connector attached to it, but the wire goes off through the hole in the steering wheel to someplace between the steering wheel and the shift selector. I haven't pulled the steering wheel off yet to see where the wire goes, but looking at the 63 Champ (its in my garage 25 miles away, so I can't just check it again) there is a center wire that comes through the center steering rod, but I don't remember seeing this 'other' wire that leads off where ever. According to the wiring diagram, the horn button picks of (-) polarity and transmits it to the wire in the center of the steering shaft and then on to the horn relay. Is this 'other' wire necessary or did someone in earlier years think they were doing something?

                    Thanks everyone that responded, I appreciate it. There is a horn button under the dash that toots the horn, but I had someone back over a Jaguar XKE I had once, because I couldn't get to the horn button that was positioned about like this one. I like Studebakers more than I like Jaguars (and I really do like Jags!) so I really do want the horn button in the center of the steering wheel working, that plus since my 17 year old daughter drives it too, I don't want her hunting for the horn button in an emergencey!!



                    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
                    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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                    • #11
                      Oh and Bob, since the center wire needs to be insulated, I guess barbed wire shouldn't be used, right!?[)]



                      Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
                      Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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                      • #12
                        if it doesn't go down the center of the steering shaft, it probably parallels the turn signal wiring.

                        nate

                        --
                        55 Commander Starlight
                        http://members.cox.net/njnagel
                        --
                        55 Commander Starlight
                        http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                        • #13
                          Bend the barb to point straight out and you won't need the button.

                          '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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                          • #14
                            I removed the steering wheel and found that the horn wire does indeed go down the steering tube next to the direction signal wires and comes out before the steering tube exits the firewall. I cleaned everything up and now need to continue with rewiring the horn circuit. There is no horn relay under the hood, so I will have to install one. I do see a 'T" shaped female plug with 3 connections that I suspect goes to the relay. I suppose that now I need to know what each connection goes to so I can back trace the wires. I know that there has to be a connection that goes to the horn button, to the horn and to the positive side of the battery. Can anyone tell me which is which?

                            I also ran a new wire for the gear selector indicator so that now I can see what gear I have it in at night!



                            Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker
                            Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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                            • #15
                              At the Relay, the power wire is coming directly from the nearby Solenoid wire that connects to the always HOT Term. that the Batt. Cable is connected to, a test light there will reveal which it is.

                              That is not a good idea, it should have an in-line fuse there or a fuseable link, ditto the other wire there, it is the main power supply to the Dash, Headlights/Ampmeter/Ign Switch also [u]un-fused.</u>
                              Please don't ask me how I know that!

                              The number two wire is the horn button switch ground wire.
                              The third wire is the horn output and has two wires on the one Term. for the Hi and the Lo tone horns.


                              StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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