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Quarter Window replacement

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  • Quarter Window replacement

    In replacing the weatherstrip on the rear quarterwindows of a '53 Commander Coupe I have managed the miracle of removing the window without breaking it. I have new weatherstrip, but my question is--before I attempt the truly impossible task of reinstallation-- is any adhesive or sealer used here?

    '53 Commander
    '53 Commander
    Art Morrison chassis
    LS6 ASA/4L60E

  • #2
    No, that thing - fitted right - shouldn't need any sealant or glue.

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle!!

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks--I shall attempt the impossible now...

      '53 Commander
      '53 Commander
      Art Morrison chassis
      LS6 ASA/4L60E

      Comment


      • #4
        I recently did it. You did grind the rivets and removed the glass pane and it's frame?

        Miscreant adrift in
        the BerStuda Triangle!!

        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe

        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          I believe per the shop manual there should be some dum-dum applied to the body where the rubber meets it when you install the frame back in the car. I might be tempted to use silicone today, however. I haven't done mine yet as I need to fix a few screw holes before permanently mounting my windows.

          nate

          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
          --
          55 Commander Starlight
          http://members.cox.net/njnagel

          Comment


          • #6
            My 53 had a bead of dum-dum around the inside of the outer skin, where you would expect the best possibility of moisture entry. Based on my experience, I would stick with the dum-dum, rather than silicone. Dum-dum was also used around the windshield and backlight openings before installing. I've never had leakproof success with silicone. I also thought about urethane but, you'd never be able to remove them again.

            It's also used for rear fender installation and a myriad of other applications. It not only works great, it's period correct.

            Brad Johnson
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            33 Rockne 10
            51 Commander Starlight
            53 Commander Starlight

            previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
            "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

            Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
            Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
            sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

            Comment


            • #7


              Auto glass shops never use silicone. If you find one that does...Run away fast--very fast!

              KURTRUK
              (read it backwards)
              KURTRUK
              (read it backwards)




              Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

              Comment


              • #8
                ok, "dum" question; what is "dum-dum"; Never heard of it.
                Whatever it is I'll need it soon when I reinstall my quarter windows. I believe it is necessary to get the headliner in before installing the auarter wiindow, correct? tks,

                Comment


                • #9
                  There are occasions when a little silicon sealant comes in supremely handy. I have been told to always use the "neutral cure" type to avoid problems under rubber seals.
                  Something to do with acid forming if wrong silicon is used.
                  Anyway, that's what I've been told by a w/screen mob. And I have used silicon sealant around leaky w/screens, where the black goo didn't seal all that long due to body flexing. The silicon sealed OK, but was difficult to apply without looking "wrong". The black goo is easier, but messier. Lots of rags and some turps and some really dirty fingers in the end.
                  /H

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Oldtimers call it dum-dum and the Studebaker shop manual calls it dum-dum. Today's parts stores know it as ribbon calk or strip calk. 3M part #051135-08578 is black. Other colors are available. The first time I went in to the parts store and asked for dum-dum, the guy behind the counter thought I was asking for the manager.

                    And, yes, on the headliner installation.

                    Brad Johnson
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    33 Rockne 10
                    51 Commander Starlight
                    53 Commander Starlight

                    previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser
                    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      This was regarding replacing the glass in its frame, which is a necessary prelude to putting the quarter window back in its rightful place on the car. Replacing the weatherstrip on the glass itself is quite a challenge.

                      '53 Commander
                      '53 Commander
                      Art Morrison chassis
                      LS6 ASA/4L60E

                      Comment

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