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CASO door panel replacement

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  • CASO door panel replacement

    ok, it's time to move onto the interior for a bit...

    the old door panels are shot, they look like 3 sheets of thin black cardboard placed together and are crumbling in my garage...

    I was thinking of doing a CASO replacement using 1/8" hardboard, some light padding and new marine vinyl...

    any other considerations aside from the hardboard before I head off to the local hardware store?

    I can use what's left of the old panels as a template for the new ones, but they are not worth much more than that...

    any ideas on a material for replacement would be appreciated!

  • #2
    I used some foam board used for posters to make mine, but I had a free scrap supply. I think my dad used 1/4" luan plywood.

    --george

    1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175
    53-54 C/Ks, 55 Speedsters, 63 Daytonas, Wagonaires Registries

    1963 Lark Daytona HT - 63V J8 175
    53-54 C/Ks, 55 Speedsters, 63 Daytonas, Wagonaires Registries
    http://www.teamwetworks.com/stregs/

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    • #3
      I used 3/16Pvc sheets That way if you want to form it to fit bends and concaves use a hair dryer or heat gun to mold or bend it. Also you can piece it together with pvc cement.

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      • #4
        Your Dad started with 3/16 Luan, but soon changed to 1/8 tempered Masonite. It's flexible enough to curl to the door form and pretty cheap.

        I used "headliner" foam padding covered with Vinyl upholstery material. I glued the foam on with spray-on contact, then the vinyl, also with spray contact, but on the back only, not on the front. I had salvaged the Stainless trim, transferred the holes from the original cardboard, I think it came out pretty good.





        [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
        Tom Bredehoft
        '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
        '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
        (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
        '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
        All Indiana built cars

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        • #5
          .125 abs sheet plastic. Check out roddoors.com and buy the tape ($10?). It goes over the entire process. I have a copy but no way to copy the tape.

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Mulberry, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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          • #6
            I made my own too, there is an old thread on it. I used the 1/8 hardboard, but was sure to put several coats of polyurethene on the back for water protection. I'd probably use the ABS if I was doing it again.


            www.studebakerhardtop.com

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            • #7
              Excellent ideas! Thanks everyone! I hadn't even thought of the pvc or abs options...

              although I did actually consider the reverse "woody" look of forgetting about the padding and vinyl and just using some paneling... for about a millisecond!!!

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              • #8
                Just a quick overview;

                * Obviously the plastic is water resistant, so this will never be a problem. I guess it could warp if it ever was hard enough, but I doubt this would be a problem.

                * After cuting the panel to size, sand down the edges on both sides. This will keep your material of choice from tearing over it's lifetime. Before sanding though, run some adhesive foam strip to the backside edge.

                * If you are padding the inner panel, the padding comes in various thinknesses. You upholstry adhesive on the plastic and foam and let both get tacky before putting the two together. The same is true when you install the cloth/vinyl/leather etc.

                The tape gets into a lot more detail. They suggest using velcro to hold the panel to the door.

                ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                Tom - Mulberry, FL

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

                Tom - Bradenton, FL

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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                • #9
                  I used "dry erase" board its a masonite and it already has a good water resistant coating on one side. which is the side I put out to the exposed back. just have to ruff up the surface where you would want glue to stick.
                  I got it at home depot. I tried this cause last time I used reg masonite and it eventually got wet and warped. been a few years. so far so good.
                  sigpic1957 Golden Hawk

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