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82-92 Camaro Z28 1 1/4" Plug and Play Off Shelf Brackets Front Sway Bar on 60V lark

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  • Front Axle / Front Suspension: 82-92 Camaro Z28 1 1/4" Plug and Play Off Shelf Brackets Front Sway Bar on 60V lark

    ​ wanted to try it for almost a year, read everything here and on Bob Jonstones, almost any GM will do, but Camaro are the most abundant, the sucker is heavy as hell, idk if it was worth the effort

    lots of research went into avoiding having to buy the 63-64 update stude front brackets and most require modification, reorientation, welding, and fabricaton, if i was gonna do all that for get it already

    i thought and thought and..... thought and decided to cut a 4" square tubing and drill holes and then searched for what was in my head and searched and bingo found this, this is plug and play, and it's a gimme it's so affordable and adjustable for minor goofs in the install, no cutting drilling measuring, i could not even slot it like this, all I can say is WOW.

    measurements:

    center to center of slot on the A arms are for sure 44" exactly the distance of the end hole on this 1.25" bar 75 bucks shipped with a rear 3/4 bar with all the brackets and bushings)
    slots are 1/4" wide

    used grade 5, 1/4" x 5" bolts ( this goes in the slots without drilling, does not damage the control arms and can be reverse, with no evidence of tampering,) with a 5/8" spacer, wanted them 3/4" but screwed up with my cutoff wheel
    i did not enlarge the slot by drilling a hole in the center, like some do to use a 5/16 bolt, time will tell if it moves, ( this part wash easy as hell, i said give me more easy stuff like this) with the 40 mile shake down freeway drive; so far no

    f250 drop brackets from eBay is approx 4" in height, i like the parallelogram shape and slots for adjustment and access with a ratchet instead of being boxed in and thick metal around 23 bucks

    i mocked it up above the control arm, but felt it might interfere with the travel <2" space above the bolt remained , so below it went, the bar has a curve in the center and to flip it to curve up, i would have had to lower the bar up front and that would look like crap and needed it taller bracket and would bring the bar lower in the front view, again look like a hack job and crap.

    30% firmer ride ( i don't like this)

    20% less lean, i didn't need it, my rear coil helpers actually transformed the car and it simply did not sway even at speed, so the improvement while welcomed, but was not needed

    i do not race, but it is absolutely flat cornering now, now i know why they invented Recaro seats, i love my bench seats but, it aint good for racing

    had to drill 4 ~ 7/16 holes, the bar curves right along side the control arms, it was made for each other

    stock Z28 1982-1992 old as hell but still good original Camaro front rubber bushings are used (CASO) the brackets were wire-wheeled ( i graded the black rattle can but forgot to shoot it so now forget it, here comes the flash rust, and patina left on the bar after wire-wheel, 10 bucks for a pair of Moog end links with rubber bushings cheapest I could find on eBay shipped, I like rubber , poly is for the wannabe racers ( were 7") I needed the bolts at 5"

    total cost $109.00, less if i sell the rear bar that came with the eBay deal

    Last edited by mw2013; 09-26-2021, 01:24 PM.

  • #2
    Sounds great, but pics would be nice!
    I'd be very leery of the 1/4" bolts though.

    Comment


    • #3
      i don't know why it didn't post pics, they show up on my screen but not on my other computer

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      • #4
        i am not 20 years old and my driving is smooth , i hope the 1/4 bolts hold, i think they will


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        • #5
          i forgot to mention the exact center of the front mounting points for the 1982-1992 1 1/4" Camaro IROC Z28 bar is 28.5 inches and the exact 28.5 inches is on the inboard frame rails were i drilled the holes, it was made for it, because of this match made in Studebaker heaven, i may leave it on.now what to do with the stock 3/4 bar?

          i might add the wide range of adjustabilty fore and aft, with this setup will alleviate any binding if one wants to twittle with it, in a later moment


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          Last edited by mw2013; 09-26-2021, 01:11 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Don't be afraid to place the link on top of the A-arm at the attaching point and give it a try. You only have to invest 15 minutes to swap the links from bottom to top. (I did however use shorter links for the swap.)

            I drove my 59 F4 with them on the bottom as I was afraid of clearance issues with them on top. As you can see with your setup, similar to mine, that the bar would have better clearance at the link ends if it were on top of the lower A-arm. So, I did just that, put the bar end and link on top of the lower A-arm, in between the two A-arms. I know it doesn't sound right but I will never have a problem of it hitting the upper A-arm as the two A-arms stay somewhat the same distance through their travel. If the bottom A-arm ever gets close enough for them to hit you have other serious issues. Hitting the coil spring seat outer lip on the frame is the concern here but as yet I have had no issues. I do, however have a pretty good suspension setup that helps at every corner.

            At the front the 59 F4 has Moog CC655 coil springs, the rear has an extra main leaf, stock 6 cyl springs, to make 5, and KYB GAs-Adjust shocks all-around. It also has Delrin bushings at all pivot points on the suspension, front and rear. Matching all this with some Centerline alloy wheels, modern 235x60x15 Yokahama tires and with the GM front and rear sway bars it is a fun car to drive.

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            • #7
              i mis-wrote it is the coil towers that is stationary and that it may hit after looking at it again, i will look into that above vs below for the links, show my your rear "GM" sway bar set up

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              • #8
                Here is a link to my rear sway bar setup.

                https://forum.studebakerdriversclub....sway-bar/page2

                Look at post 28 and 29.

                P.S. The rear shocks in the photos have been changed to KYB.

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