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No Direct Drive? 1951 Champion with Automatic Drive

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: No Direct Drive? 1951 Champion with Automatic Drive

    So when I first had this car running, I found that surprisingly, the original trans worked perfectly fine, and had Low, Reverse, Intermediate, and Direct drive.

    Then I parked it for about 8 months, and it doesn't want to shift up to direct drive at all when I drive it.

    No slippage, it just doesn't shift, so I'm kinda limited to 35-40mph.

    The speedometer also stopped working for some reason, would any of you be able to help me?

  • #2
    Did you do the obvious and properly check the transmission fluid level?
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by studegary View Post
      Did you do the obvious and properly check the transmission fluid level?
      Yup, I even did it according to the Chilton's manual.

      Comment


      • #4
        So I read up on the anti-creep valve on the transmission, could that be stopping it from shifting up, in the time it was parked, I totally abandoned the rotted original wiring, so its not hooked up.

        Comment


        • #5
          Try doing a search on this Forum for DG transmission problems, or direct drive. I seem to recall someone several years ago writing with the same problem after the car sat for some time. One of the folks on here had a simple solution for this but I cannot recall what it was. I'm sure the answer is on here.
          Ed Sallia
          Dundee, OR

          Sol Lucet Omnibus

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Commander Eddie View Post
            Try doing a search on this Forum for DG transmission problems, or direct drive. I seem to recall someone several years ago writing with the same problem after the car sat for some time. One of the folks on here had a simple solution for this but I cannot recall what it was. I'm sure the answer is on here.
            That would be great if it is a simple problem, I really don't want to have to rebuild it, though I am going to Lincoln Tech, and they have a transmission rebuild course. I might be able to convince the instructor that rebuilding a DG200 would be a good edition to his curriculum (I'm in collision repair, so this might be difficult).

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jjester6000 View Post

              That would be great if it is a simple problem, I really don't want to have to rebuild it, though I am going to Lincoln Tech, and they have a transmission rebuild course. I might be able to convince the instructor that rebuilding a DG200 would be a good edition to his curriculum (I'm in collision repair, so this might be difficult).
              I tried searching for this and found some information but not what I was looking for. You might try changing all the fluid in the transmission, including the torque converter which is drained separately. Re-fill with fresh fluid, make sure the torque converter gets filled as well. Don't over fill. Then start the engine and run the transmission through all the gears with the rear wheels off the ground. If it seems to be working, let it down on the ground and take it for a test drive. Hopefully that is all it needs.
              Ed Sallia
              Dundee, OR

              Sol Lucet Omnibus

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Commander Eddie View Post

                I tried searching for this and found some information but not what I was looking for. You might try changing all the fluid in the transmission, including the torque converter which is drained separately. Re-fill with fresh fluid, make sure the torque converter gets filled as well. Don't over fill. Then start the engine and run the transmission through all the gears with the rear wheels off the ground. If it seems to be working, let it down on the ground and take it for a test drive. Hopefully that is all it needs.
                I was thinking of running a quart of that Lucas Stop Slip in it, do you think that's a good idea? It has saved my ass a couple of times (twice with 4l60e's and once with a 700r4).

                Comment


                • #9
                  I am always a little hesitant to recommend an additive in one of these transmission, although I have been guilty of adding an ounce or two of Marvel Mystery Oil.
                  I doubt that slippage is your problem as the bands have nothing to do with the transmission going into direct drive. The torque converter does use fluid pressure to engage the dry clutch encased in it and engages the direct drive. If it were me, I would just change the fluid and see if this helps since the transmission was working when parked.
                  Ed Sallia
                  Dundee, OR

                  Sol Lucet Omnibus

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Good advice. BUT, PLEASE Do NOT go searching for Type "A" ATF for it, or 10 weight non-detergent engine Oil !

                    Just buy some Valvoline Type "F", enough to fill both the Main Case and the Converter, Plus some to add if ever needed.

                    It is Highly unlikely that this Trans. has been Rebuilt in the last 10 years or so and had Cellulose Clutch Plates installed, so the centered Brass Clutches will like the Type "F".
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      Good advice. BUT, PLEASE Do NOT go searching for Type "A" ATF for it, or 10 weight non-detergent engine Oil !

                      Just buy some Valvoline Type "F", enough to fill both the Main Case and the Converter, Plus some to add if ever needed.

                      It is Highly unlikely that this Trans. has been Rebuilt in the last 10 years or so and had Cellulose Clutch Plates installed, so the centered Brass Clutches will like the Type "F".
                      Yea, unless somebody yanked it out of the barn it had been sitting in for 35 years some time around 2011, rebuilt the transmission, sabotaged the seals/covered it in grease, then wheeled the car back in the barn for me to find 9 years later.

                      Yea, I had topped it off with Dextron before, so I'll use Type F instead.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        It probably has a problem with the governor. That the speedo no longer works might be a clue in that direction. You need a Studebaker Automatic Drive Shop Manual which also contains a wiring diagram and trouble shooting tree for the Anti-Creep. Working or not, the Anti-Creep doesn't effect shifting.
                        "Burning Bridges...Lost Forevermore"......

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by jjester6000 View Post

                          Yup, I even did it according to the Chilton's manual.
                          And how does the Chilton's manual describe how to do it? Is it the same as the Studebaker description?
                          Gary L.
                          Wappinger, NY

                          SDC member since 1968
                          Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This is how:

                            Maintenance Requirements
                            Fig. 43
                            Fig. 44
                            Fig. 45
                            This automatic transmission uses 10W premium type engine oil (SAE 10-10W premium type engine oil is also satisfactory). This oil is an all-year, all-climate oil; there is no change over required to meet various climatic conditions. The total oil capacity of the transmission is approximately 11 1/2 quarts (9.6 Imp. Qts., 10,8 liters); however when draining the transmission, a small amount of oil will remain in the unit and the amount required to refill it will be that needed to bring the oil level to the FULL mark on the gage as described below.

                            Use only brands of premium type oil marketed by reputable refineries.

                            Check Transmission Oil Level every 1,000 miles (1609 Km.) as follows:
                            1. With the car on a level floor, set the parking brake firmly, set the selector lever at L, and raise the transmission oil temperature by idling the engine to normal engine operating temperature.
                            2. Remove the inspection hole cover located on top of the floor carpet to expose the oil level gage.
                            3. Clean area around the inspection hole. Remove the oil level gage (Fig. 43), wipe dry and check oil level. The space between the FULL and LOW marks on the gage represents one pint (see Fig. 44).
                            4. With the engine still idling, and selector still at L, add good quality 10W premium type engine oil (SAE 10-10W premium type engine oil is also satisfactory) as required to bring level to FULL mark on the oil level gage. Do not overfill.

                            Drain and Refill Transmission every 15,000 miles (24.135 Km.) or once a year.
                            1. Set the parking brake firmly. Set selector lever at L and raise transmission oil temperature by idling engine to normal engine operating temperature.
                              Fig. 46
                              Fig. 47
                            2. Stop the engine and remove the inspection hole cover located on top of the floor carpet to expose the oil level gage. Clean the area around the inspection hole and remove the oil level gage.
                            3. Remove the transmission oil pan drain plug (2, Fig. 45).
                            4. Remove the converter housing cover plate (1, Fig. 46) and rotate the converter until drain plug is in position for draining. Remove the converter drain plug (1, Fig. 47).
                            5. Remove the converter pressure take-off plug (1, Fig. 45) from the left side of the transmission to facilitate draining.
                            6. After oil has drained, install and tighten the drain plugs in the transmission oil pan and converter. Install the converter housing cover plate. Install and tighten the converter pressure take-off plug.
                            7. Pour six (6) quarts (5 Imp. Qts., 5,68 liters) of 10W premium type (SAE 10-10W premium type engine oil is also satisfactory) engine oil into the transmission through the transmission oil filler tube.
                            8. Start the engine and idle for approximately one minute with the selector lever set in the L position to transfer the oil to the converter from the transmission case.
                            9. With the engine still idling and the selector lever in the L position, add 3 more quarts (2.5 Imp. Qts., 2,84 liters) of 10W premium type (SAE 10-10W premium type engine oil is also satisfactory) engine oil and then add additional oil as required to bring the level to the FULL mark on the oil level gage. Do not overfill.

                            Do not use sealing compounds on pipe plugs, drain plugs, gaskets, etc.

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                            • #15
                              I was very surprised that 10w10 engine oil is good enough, anyways, it doesn't really leak any trans oil now (the level is still good) but it was low when I got the car, so I added a couple quarts of Dextron III as well as a bottle of Lucas Stop Slip (This was over a year ago)

                              The fluid that was in it already was also red, (Was the original fluid Red?) so I assume that Mr. Wood (The owner who parked it) took care of it.

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