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Overdrive problem ‘50 champion

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Overdrive problem ‘50 champion

    Hello all,
    the OD on my ‘50 champion isn’t working. I tested the relay and it works fine. I tested the solenoid from the relay and it sounds like it wants to work but no “click”. Almost sounds like the rod is blocked? I pulled the solenoid out, bench tested it, and it works perfectly. In fact , it appears brand new. I reinstalled it and tested again, still same result, no click.
    any ideas?
    thx,
    jim

  • #2
    Sounds like the overdrive shift rail, which is the part moved by the lockout control, has not moved all the way forward, which it must do to permit the solenoid to work. The lockout lever must be back fully against its stop for the shift rail to go fully forward. I like to adjust the lockout cable so that the knob is about 1/4" clear of the bezel when the lockout lever is fully back. The lockout lever will inhibit the proper operation of the overdrive if it is even a tiny bit off its stop. You might get freewheeling, but the solenoid will be inhibited.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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    • #3
      Don't forget the role of the overdrive governor in grounding the circuit. I don't know if you’re testing the transmission with the rear wheels off the ground or driving it to test? But if the governor wire or the internals are not functioning properly it will not engage.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

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      • #4
        Thx John, I think that’s the problem. I got some bad info on YouTube! Lesson learned, always stick to the shop manual…I’m pulling the governor today and cleaning it. Hopefully that will get me going again.

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        • #5
          Thanks for giving me a sliver of credibility by acknowledging my suggestion. Before you go through all the trouble of removing the governor, just crank up your car (if you have the rear wheels off the ground), and with the shifter in high gear, allow the wheel speed to motor up, and as the governor reaches approx 25mph, you should see the amp needle jump as the governor contacts complete the ground circuit. It could be something like a little bit of corrosion on the wire contacts. If cleaning all the external contact points doesn't fix it, then you are justified to go into the internal workings of the governor. Fortunately, for me, I have not had to tear one apart but would do so in a skinny minute. Sometimes I do such things as much out of curiosity than need. I think I have read posts from others who have had to clean up the inside components of governors to get them working properly. Let us know what solves your problem.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            I already took it out and cleaned up the inside as well as the points. I’ll make sure all the contacts are cleans as well. I’ll let you know how it goes!
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Well, good news and bad news. I cleaned up the governor and reinstalled. When I ground the governor wire the solenoid clicks so I think I’ve fixed it. The reason I’m not sure is because I can’t put the car into gear now! The clutch has resistance on the pedal. The car hasn’t been driven for a 2 1/2 mos and it’s been very humid and rainy here. Is it possible something has rusted and stuck? The car is parked in a garage so it wasn’t exposed to the weather. Could the governor r&r cause this?can any other switches on the transmission cause this?
              any ideas welcome.
              thx,
              jim
              Last edited by Flthdchamp; 08-26-2021, 12:04 PM.

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              • #8
                Update, after looking on the forum for clutch problems on a ‘’50 champion I found this from Ron Dane :

                “If the clutch linkage appears to be working as it should, it could be that the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel and pressure plate. It happens a lot when cars sit for a few years. If this is the case, the first attempt to free it is to get it to a location where you have lots of space in front of you. Plan on at least 50 yards to be safe, more is better. Put the car in first, push the clutch in, brakes off, and start the car. You WILL be moving! once you have some speed, say 10 or 15 MPH, with the clutch pedal still to the floor, SLAM on the brakes. That usually will brake the rust bond that has happened. Oh yeah, make sure you have good brakes first!“

                I tried this and voila, I’m in business. Tomorrow is the first OD test run…

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                • #9
                  Success! OD is now working !

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