Announcement

**studee64** · 01-11-2009, 02:47 PM

Hi Curt,
We are putting a GT Hawk Registry together and would like to include your car. Please contact me direct at studee64@cogeco.ca and I will send you the registration information.

Thanks,

Barry Leppan
Burlington, Ont. Canada
64 Daytona HT 5-spd
64 GT Hawk R-1/AC/Powershift
Hamilton Chapter

**bowss@aol.com** · 01-11-2009, 02:53 PM

A coil will tend to quit as it warms up. Another thing to look at is the condensor for the points. Do a pressure and volume check on the new fuel pump in order to eliminate it as defective. I am currently running a '62 Hawk Gt for daily transportation.

**StudeRich** · 01-11-2009, 05:06 PM

A '62 GT Hawk would have originally had a Prestolite Dist. we have many posts found by the search function concerning those troublesome distributors. Long story short is that you could have a intermittently jammed breaker plate because the centrifugal advance weights are worn out. They are under the breaker plate, so it requires a total
dis-assembly to examine them.

StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

**Pas62GTHawk** · 01-11-2009, 06:24 PM

Thanks for the great feed back everyone. I'm learning here and it is nice to be able to use this amazing technology and your wisdom to help isolate my car's running problem.

1. I failed to mention I had the distributor replaced when I was going over a minor overhaul (oil seals, bearings, clutch, OD installed on trans). I will try to find out what we put in, but I do believe Rick at Studebaker Parts in Long Beach, CA did it knowing the original was troublesome.

2. The new fuel pump is a Carter (universal) and I'm running two new filters. The new pre-pump filter is metal, the new pre-carburetor filter is clear plastic and the gas flow is strong.

3. My problem happened again today as I purposely tried a quick acceleration 20 mph to 35-40 on a local street. Same thing, the power dropped and the engine started dogging on me. Extra pressure on the gas peddle and RPMs got me into my driveway.

It's looking more and more like it's the coil gentlemen. Yet, I'm always open for other possibilities. I'll continue to monitor this chat for further help with appreciation.

Happy New Year to You All

"Help needed with one lose nut between the driver's seat and the wheel... Thanks"

**Chucks Stude** · 01-11-2009, 07:32 PM

You say it "dogs" on you..... could it possibly be a bad accelerator pump in the carb? That will make one feel like it dogs out. Also, you say that your replaced the distributor, did you pull out the resistor at the same time? You could be overloading the points, see if the spring on the point set is burned blue, or if the points are bad. That would suggest a bad resistor, or shorted coil.

**Pas62GTHawk** · 01-11-2009, 08:03 PM

Hi Chuck's Stude,

Thanks! I'll be sure to bring this up when I call Bill Oliver at Stude Parts in LB, CA in the AM. The points have copper springs and still looking shiny, brand new. Points look healthy too but looks can be deceiving. I have not pulled the plugs for inspection. Should I? I can read them fairly well if I do. I can let you know what I find, if you suggest I do it.

The car sat last year because I couldn't get around to replacing the brake master cylinder. I did start her every few weeks. I did not experience this when I was driving her a year ago, which is maybe 75 miles a week or so. I'm running a tank of Cheveron w/Techron 91 octane. Is that OK? The original single barrel carburetor was rebuilt but I don't think well, it was leaking around the top main gasket. It doesn't have more than 2,000 on it. The screws are losing their grip so I am not able to torque on them. The leaking has subsided with careful tightening.

I may just order a new carb. If I do, got any suggestions should I go that route?

Again... Thanks,

Curt

"Help needed with one lose nut between the driver's seat and the wheel... Thanks"

**HAWK64** · 01-12-2009, 03:23 AM

Curt,
Had a look at all the suggestions of help plus your own comments re the misfire. Do have a look at the two wires going to the live side of the coil. One should still be a pinkish colour which is the resistance wire for when the engine is running. If it shows some burning discolouration near the coil end just snip a short section away. I've experienced that problem on rare occasions over the years.
If you are speaking with Bill Oliver say " Hi " from me. I worked there for a short period back in 1995 along with Rick Barrett.

"QUIGLEY DOWN UNDER"
MELBOURNE.

**jackb** · 01-12-2009, 03:49 AM

At the least you have some carb problems brewing....

**Chucks Stude** · 01-12-2009, 06:29 AM

I now vote for carb problem.

**Pas62GTHawk** · 01-22-2009, 01:56 PM

To Chucks Stude and jackb,

BINGO... and THANK YOU.

1. I went straight to the accelerator pump by carefully taking just the top of the carburetor off.

2. Pulled the plunger missing the *spring, stuck my finger in the hole and retrieved the *spring that had come detached from the plunger.

3. Cleaned everything nicely that I could find with carburetor cleaner and elbow grease.

4. Re-attached the spring by carefully pressing it back on the plunger.

5. Gently but firmly pulled on the spring while holding the plunger to confirm it was on good.

6. Reassembled the carburetor connected gas line.

7. Shot of starter spray and my car started right up.

8. Runs Great!

*Spring - How it most likely detached:

Punching the peddle going down the road trying to activate the overdrive switch that the throttle arm comes back and hits. It was soon after doing that I experienced the sporadic dogging problem with the engine. Won't do that again. The OD is now operating properly. Go figure.

Your help saved me a lot of time, trouble and money. (where do I send a my check?)

Thanks again. Good call and vote!

Curt

"Help needed with one loose nut between the driver's seat and the wheel... Thanks"

**N8N** · 01-22-2009, 02:29 PM

I had a similar problem with my '62 Daytona, eventually found that some kind of cloth had made its way into the gas tank and a little flap of it got sucked up against the pickup tube. What would happen was it would run OK when demand for gas was low, but prolonged high speed cruising would eventually run the carb bowl dry and it would sputter and spit until I stopped the engine for a few minutes and then it'd run fine again until the cloth got sucked back against the tube.

Oh, and I don't like the aftermarket fuel pumps, but the problem is generally not volume but leaks.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

**Pas62GTHawk** · 01-22-2009, 07:38 PM

Hi Nate,

I'm pleased with the new universal $55 Carter in line fuel pump. Though I've had two before this one that I was not pleased with. It seems the advance in technology and manufacturing has finally addressed the fuel pump and is creating good ones.

Thanks for your post.

Curt

"Help needed with one loose nut between the driver's seat and the wheel... Thanks"

Pasadena, CA

**N8N** · 01-22-2009, 07:44 PM

Ah... I thought you meant an Airtex mechanical fuel pump that came in a Carter box. Yes, I have heard that the electric pumps are OK and in fact have one that I'm going to install in my own car.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

**Pas62GTHawk** · 01-22-2009, 10:31 PM

Hi Nate,

I wired mine to a switch on my dash board that your ordinary car creep would ever know needs to be flipped to get 25 yards after starting the engine. Hope that gives you ideas... : )

Curt

"Help needed with one loose nut between the driver's seat and the wheel... Thanks"

Pasadena, CA

Announcement

62 GT Hawk: Ignition Coil Going Out Symptoms Help

62 GT Hawk: Ignition Coil Going Out Symptoms Help

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