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  • Brakes: Master cylinder

    Does anybody out there in the wide world of sports know where and if you can get a master cylinder that isn't made in China. Went through two of those pieces of junk in two years and not going to bust my knuckles on another one. Most of the vendor stuff is chinese imported but somewhere there must be another answer. Old original core is too far gone for a kit if there even is such a thing anymore.

  • #2
    Having the original ones sleeved in brass or stainless steel was big in the late 80's, early 90's.

    Is that still a popular thing?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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    • #3
      What were your M/C symptoms that caused you to replace them ? I currently have one (Taiwan-was told better than China) that appears to have a stuck piston.

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      • #4
        I believe that Dave Thibeault (SS) and White Post (brass) still do sleeving of master cylinders. That's one good reason for keeping your original MC. My 64 Avanti has all stainless steel-sleeved cylinders on it (wheel & MC), from Dave Thibeault, and have been fine.
        -Dwight

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jackb View Post
          What were your M/C symptoms that caused you to replace them ? I currently have one (Taiwan-was told better than China) that appears to have a stuck piston.
          The first one wouldn't release the brakes. I took it back to NAPA and they said it had a malfunctioning valve as had others they sold and had to give refunds. They took them off the shelf and yes they were Chinese. The second one leaked from the front around the rod boot from the start although it worked for about a year
          and finally it wouldn't release the brakes either. Replacing the under the floor cylinders on Studebakers is no easy task and I don't want any more practice if I can help it.

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          • #6
            Uh oh... I just ordered a Dorman MC for 39.00 on ebay. But I will definitely keep my original and see about sleeving it. Thanks for the warning.
            Rafe

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            • #7
              Just bought one from Russ Ware. Odd--it has no info as to country of origin. Didn't need it 'cause the problem seems to have been the original return spring. Replaced it and all is well. I suggest you do that since it might just work and it is way cheaper and way easier that replacing the mc. They get old and lose their stiffness---they get weak and rusty. Just 'cause it looks OK, that don't mean it is up to the job. Bad place to be "CASO"
              Last edited by Jeffry Cassel; 07-28-2021, 02:19 PM.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the info Jeff but I don't think replacing the spring will stop the cylinder from leaking out over night.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rafe Hollister View Post
                  Uh oh... I just ordered a Dorman MC for 39.00 on ebay. But I will definitely keep my original and see about sleeving it. Thanks for the warning.
                  Rafe
                  Got a quote on sleeving from White Post at $175.00. Probably a problem solver no doubt but just a little steep for me as I am considering selling the car pretty soon. Getting to old and stoved up to properly care for it anymore and no one around here is interested in working on old Studebakers. Can't say I blame them.

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                  • #10
                    I don't follow the "sleeving" fix. If the bore is rusty = OK. This will be the 2nd M/C that is stuck. Is the bore out of taper ? The Chinese rubber swelling ? The Dot 3 fluid ? A bad return spring ? My M/C is 11 months old and everything was replaced new last August. Yes to checking the return port......I also had a US made NAPA M/C that I installed and got the same results.....was over 10 years old in box w/ slight rust in rezzzy.

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                    • #11
                      The purpose of the sleeve is to get a smooth bore over the old pitted bore on an original U.S. made cylinder. You can't get a kit to work over a pitted bore thus the sleeving. White also completely rebuilds the cylinder for the $175.00 price and you get a better cylinder than the chinese repop that I don't seem to have any luck with. I am going to try one more from Russ Ware who says he will guarantee it for a year. If it lasts that long it will be a record for me with chinese junk.

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                      • #12
                        just to keep the dialog going....... I had to buy a Chinese brake cylinder kit last year when my NOS stuff emptied..... I noticed the rubber was much stiffer and less pliable then the NOS kit. Internal resistance ?

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                        • #13
                          Poor quality no doubt as is most of their stuff. Craftsmanship is an unknown in the chinese manufacturing realm. Make 'em as cheap as possible and get 'em on the market. Who are you going to go after when the part fails? the dealer just blames the manufacturer and they are some obscure outfit probably using slave labor in China who doesn't even put a name or number on their product so you can trace it. They scam us everyday but I don't know where else you can go to get a part when your old one is not rebuildable. Catch 22 if there ever was one.

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