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  • Fuel System: Return fuel line installed

    I just installed a Purolator F20030 fuel filter between the fuel pump and carb. Ran a return line to a fitting on the gas tank filler tube. So far not even a hiccup while sitting at a stop light or in traffic.
    Last edited by Son O Lark; 07-22-2021, 05:35 PM.

  • #2
    Cool Barry, glad it's working for you. I'm a big believer in using a return line.
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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    • #3
      You might wanna install an in-line restrictor, lest the motor starve for fuel under heavy load conditions. I used a Harley carb jet, that fits inside the line perfectly, and has about .035" hole in center.

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      • #4
        Thanks Joe! That is a great tip. I was worried about loss of pressure. I used 3/16 inch line back to tank. I will add the jet too. Thanks again, Barry
        Last edited by Son O Lark; 07-22-2021, 08:05 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
          You might wanna install an in-line restrictor, lest the motor starve for fuel under heavy load conditions. I used a Harley carb jet, that fits inside the line perfectly, and has about .035" hole in center.
          Joe has a good point. But Barry, check this filter first to see if there is already a restriction on the return connection. Pretty much all of these types of filters I have used have a orifice visible in that return connection.
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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          • #6
            My experience with those filters is that the PR valve inside soon grows weak, then line pressure drops, and fuel starvation begins.. An in-line restrictor is a permanent fix. With a 1/4" return line, and the .035" restrictor, it still pushes a stream nearly all the way across the fuel filler neck.
            Last edited by JoeHall; 07-23-2021, 08:17 AM.

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            • #7
              I have seen anywhere from .032 - .045 restrictors recommended. The above hint to test fuel pressure is definitely worthwhile.
              paulk

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              • #8
                Can a return line be used with an electric fuel alone? Would it be of any benefit?
                Marshall

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                • #9
                  I enjoy doing various projects on my car, I have two 6 volt batteries, one would do, I have a four barrel carburetor, a two barrel would work ok, I have two fuel filters, whereas one would do. My question is what is the purpose of the fuel return line?

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                  • #10
                    Barry,
                    Thanks for sharing this great idea.
                    Bill

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by altair View Post
                      My question is what is the purpose of the fuel return line?
                      A fuel return line allows the pressure of vapor lock to be relieved.

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                      • #12
                        Update: Today is in the 90 degree temperature range here in Indiana. No problem for the Possum Smasher. I am now looking forward to some hot cruisin' this summer.

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                        • #13
                          I have a return line AND and electric pump on my 64 Cruiser. As stated since installing these and insuring my water jackets in the engine are cleared, no more vapor lock.

                          Mark

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Bullet View Post
                            I have a return line AND and electric pump on my 64 Cruiser. As stated since installing these and insuring my water jackets in the engine are cleared, no more vapor lock.

                            Mark
                            how do you assure water jacket in engine is clear? flush?, if not what happens? hot spots? is this a Studebaker only issue?

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                            • #15
                              The best way is assure the water jackets are clear is to have a bare block and all the freeze/expansion/core plugs removed. At this point one takes what ever rod/wire/pokey thing and poke, scrape, scratch all the rust, muck, dirt and sand out from the spaces between the bore walls and the floor of the water jacket. Flush with copious amounts of water. Depending on condition it could take a day or two of hard work. It could be less time but don't stop half way. If it's in good condition you wouldn't be doing this.

                              I have put blocks in tanks and used different methods to clean them but by far the most reliable method to remove the crud is by hand. Once one gets the idea and technique down it can be an enjoyable process.

                              It is not unusual to remove 10 -20 pounds of crud/rust/mud and to find the spaces between some bores filled 1/4 or 1/2 way up the bore wall, especially at the rear cylinders. This is probably the main cause of warmer than wanted engine Temps.

                              Cleaning the spaces while the engine is in the car is harder and one can't get to all the nooks and crannies but it can be done well enough so it is not an issue. I've done this before and removed whatever water jacket plugs I could get to. No issuse after so it must work effectively enough doing it in the car.

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