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Window channel gasket placement?

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  • Body / Glass: Window channel gasket placement?

    Hello all. Got the u shaped gasket for the door window frame on my 50. I don't have the original it not so I'm not sure of its placement. Anyone have some good pictures! Does the gasket go down inside the door?
    Last edited by Matt N; 07-15-2021, 06:44 AM.

  • #2
    Ok I'm moving this up

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Matt N View Post
      Hello all. Got the u shaped gasket for the door window frame on my 50. I don't have the original it not so I'm not sure of its placement. Anyone have some good pictures! Does the gasket go down inside the door?
      Are you referring to the channel that acts as a guide on both the front and rear edges of the window? If so, yes, the rear part goes from the front at the top of the door and all the way down into the rear of the door by about 12 -14 inches below the widow opening in the door. The front piece is separate and attached to a bracket that's about 14" long. Is this for a 2 door or a 4 door?

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      • #4
        Thanks,

        Here are some pictures of the gasket and where it goes just make sure we're talking about the same thing. Click image for larger version

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        • #5
          Yes, that's the one I'm referring to. There should be a u shaped steel bracket that's riveted inside the rear part of your door that extends about 16" below the window opening. The channel you have fits inside that and acts as a guide when the window is rolled down. You have to remove the window and regulator to get access to it which is easy as long as you follow the directions in the shop manual (if you don't it's a nightmare). Clean up the bracket to get any old rust out and you can coat it with POR-15 paint and then after it dries for a day use a good strong cement like Gorilla glue to hold it in the bracket, Getting to it to clean out any remnants of the old channel is a bit of a task but you can use a small round wire brush, like used for cleaning a gas grill, extended on a stick or steel rod with duct tape. Same goes for the paint and glue - small brush taped onto a rod will do the trick. While you have the window and the lift mechanism out lubricate all of the contact gears and rollers with white lithium grease. You'll be a amazed to find the window will go up and own without having to help it with your hand while you crank it.

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          • #6
            There should also be a small metal clip at the bottom of each channel (inside the door) to hold that end of the channel.
            Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by tsenecal View Post
              There should also be a small metal clip at the bottom of each channel (inside the door) to hold that end of the channel.
              True, as long as it hasn't already rusted away.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by tertiumquid View Post
                Yes, that's the one I'm referring to. There should be a u shaped steel bracket that's riveted inside the rear part of your door that extends about 16" below the window opening. The channel you have fits inside that and acts as a guide when the window is rolled down. You have to remove the window and regulator to get access to it which is easy as long as you follow the directions in the shop manual (if you don't it's a nightmare). Clean up the bracket to get any old rust out and you can coat it with POR-15 paint and then after it dries for a day use a good strong cement like Gorilla glue to hold it in the bracket, Getting to it to clean out any remnants of the old channel is a bit of a task but you can use a small round wire brush, like used for cleaning a gas grill, extended on a stick or steel rod with duct tape. Same goes for the paint and glue - small brush taped onto a rod will do the trick. While you have the window and the lift mechanism out lubricate all of the contact gears and rollers with white lithium grease. You'll be a amazed to find the window will go up and own without having to help it with your hand while you crank it.
                I just had a new window installed! oh well thanks for input.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Matt N View Post

                  I just had a new window installed! oh well thanks for input.
                  That's a lesson learned - whenever you take these cars apart, lubricate everything that needs it.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by tertiumquid View Post

                    True, as long as it hasn't already rusted away.
                    Those clips are readily available; and go at the rear bottom, as well as the top front'; or are you referring to the channel rusting away?
                    Brad Johnson,
                    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by rockne10 View Post

                      Those clips are readily available; and go at the rear bottom, as well as the top front'; or are you referring to the channel rusting away?
                      Referring to the channel.

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                      • #12
                        It is necessary to pre-bend that channel before installing. I like to use the window glass (laying on a piece of cardboard or blanket) as a “form” to shape the channel. Be careful bending, it can kink easily.

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                        • #13
                          When you bend the channel, you need to make sure that the ends of the stainless tubes are not crimped. They need to be round, so that the tiny rod inside can slip inside the stainless and allow it to bend without kinking.
                          Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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