Hello all. Got the u shaped gasket for the door window frame on my 50. I don't have the original it not so I'm not sure of its placement. Anyone have some good pictures! Does the gasket go down inside the door?
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Window channel gasket placement?
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Originally posted by Matt N View PostHello all. Got the u shaped gasket for the door window frame on my 50. I don't have the original it not so I'm not sure of its placement. Anyone have some good pictures! Does the gasket go down inside the door?
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Yes, that's the one I'm referring to. There should be a u shaped steel bracket that's riveted inside the rear part of your door that extends about 16" below the window opening. The channel you have fits inside that and acts as a guide when the window is rolled down. You have to remove the window and regulator to get access to it which is easy as long as you follow the directions in the shop manual (if you don't it's a nightmare). Clean up the bracket to get any old rust out and you can coat it with POR-15 paint and then after it dries for a day use a good strong cement like Gorilla glue to hold it in the bracket, Getting to it to clean out any remnants of the old channel is a bit of a task but you can use a small round wire brush, like used for cleaning a gas grill, extended on a stick or steel rod with duct tape. Same goes for the paint and glue - small brush taped onto a rod will do the trick. While you have the window and the lift mechanism out lubricate all of the contact gears and rollers with white lithium grease. You'll be a amazed to find the window will go up and own without having to help it with your hand while you crank it.
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Originally posted by tertiumquid View PostYes, that's the one I'm referring to. There should be a u shaped steel bracket that's riveted inside the rear part of your door that extends about 16" below the window opening. The channel you have fits inside that and acts as a guide when the window is rolled down. You have to remove the window and regulator to get access to it which is easy as long as you follow the directions in the shop manual (if you don't it's a nightmare). Clean up the bracket to get any old rust out and you can coat it with POR-15 paint and then after it dries for a day use a good strong cement like Gorilla glue to hold it in the bracket, Getting to it to clean out any remnants of the old channel is a bit of a task but you can use a small round wire brush, like used for cleaning a gas grill, extended on a stick or steel rod with duct tape. Same goes for the paint and glue - small brush taped onto a rod will do the trick. While you have the window and the lift mechanism out lubricate all of the contact gears and rollers with white lithium grease. You'll be a amazed to find the window will go up and own without having to help it with your hand while you crank it.
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Originally posted by tertiumquid View Post
True, as long as it hasn't already rusted away.Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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When you bend the channel, you need to make sure that the ends of the stainless tubes are not crimped. They need to be round, so that the tiny rod inside can slip inside the stainless and allow it to bend without kinking.Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.
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