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Lug nuts stuck, chewed up- problem solved!!

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  • Skip Lackie
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Rerun

    Paul,

    Here's a good tool set for the rusty rounded bolts and nuts.
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910324000P

    Jim Bradley
    Lewistown PA
    '78 Avanti II
    Jim-
    Thanks for posting that link. We should never pass up the opportunity to buy more tools!

    Skip Lackie
    Washington DC

    Leave a comment:


  • 53k
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by 52hawk

    Glad you got it done,but I wouldn't have pried against that drum.I use a sledge hammer on the sidewall of the tire. Take a dremel to the inside of the center hole of the wheel before you put em back on-just polish it up all the way around and remove a few thousandths-and a smear of grease or never-seize-so they don't get stuck again.
    I thought about the danger of prying on the drum, but the tire wouldn't hold air so I didn't see any way of pounding on it effectively. That, and I'm known for doing dumb things[:I]. However, I didn't pry very hard- if I couldn't have seen movement I would have quit and tried something else.
    I did plan to clean the center hole, but I hadn't thought about never-seize. I have some so that will be my next step (after I do something about the tire). Thanks.

    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine
    1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
    1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

    Leave a comment:


  • 52hawk
    replied
    Glad you got it done,but I wouldn't have pried against that drum.I use a sledge hammer on the sidewall of the tire. Take a dremel to the inside of the center hole of the wheel before you put em back on-just polish it up all the way around and remove a few thousandths-and a smear of grease or never-seize-so they don't get stuck again.

    Oglesby,Il.
    Anybody that drives faster than me is a maniac.Anybody that drives slower than me is an idiot.

    Leave a comment:


  • 53k
    replied
    Lug nuts are loose!
    Using some of your excellent suggestions I succeeded in getting both messed up lug nuts off.
    The one that was too tight- I used a grinding stone on my Dremel to knock off the burrs that kept me from getting a socket on it. When it was fairly smooth I hammered a 1/2 inch drive 19mm six-point socket on the nut all the way on. Then using my breaker bar it came loose- stud was ok. The second one- I could see that the stainless cap was cracked so I took a small cold chisel and opened the crack until I could peel off the shell. Then the 19mm socket went right on the inner nut, a little loose, but tight enough to loosen it with no trouble.
    Still not complete joy though. The wheel was really stuck to the hub. Fortunately the wheel was a slotted steel wheel and I got my crowbar between the drum and the wheel and finally got it popped off. Then I aired up the tire only to find that air was coming through a crack in the sidewall, so... I guess the tires are really old. The DOT numbers on the tire are 438 which I have forgotten how to translate, but I will look that up. Looked it up- 43rd week of 1998 (or could it be 1988?)
    Thanks again for the great suggestions.

    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine
    1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
    1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

    Leave a comment:


  • 52-fan
    replied
    I have welded another nut onto the end of a damaged lug nut to remove it. The heat might even help. Of course, I wasn't dealing with the kind of salt induced rust some of you have to put up with.


    1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
    "I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

    Leave a comment:


  • bowss@aol.com
    replied
    Go to your local phone book for a Myer's Tire Supply location. They stock a sockets with inside spirals. You drive the socket over the lug nut with a hammer. Then use and impact gun or large (1/2 or bigger) ratchet to loosen the lug nut.

    Leave a comment:


  • 55s
    replied
    Excellent thoughts by everyone.

    I'm in the rust belt, and I've dealt with the worst kinds of rusty nuts, and I've never had one beat me. I`d like to add a few things.

    Rules:

    (1) Never use a cheap socket wrench since it can break or slip and you can hit your hand hard. (don't ask me how I know) I recommend fixed, non-ratcheting type.
    (2) Sometimes slightly tightening first, then loosening will work to break rust bond.
    (3) Lots of rust penetrant AND TIME AND PATIENCE may be required.
    (4) Any type of slippage should be avoided because the nut becomes harder to remove as the corners are taken off. (especially true on those door hinge Phillips screws)
    (5) Watch for both left and right handed threads on any side of the car`s drums and make sure you are turning the right way. (sometimes they are reinstalled on the wrong wide)
    (6) Use thread chasers to remove old rust once nut off.
    (7) When reinstalling, I always use anti-seize compound.

    My order of tool use is:

    (1) Proper 6 point socket and breaker bar; (the longer the bar, the more leverage you have - a pipe added to the wrench can add length, but also increase danger.

    (2) The Sears extractor socket set above. My set was only $25, and worth it.

    (3) A plumbing torch to heat and break up rust.

    (4) Grinding a new set of flats with a small grinder (i.e. grind a new six point size on the existing nut. Depending on accuracy, you can use a smaller socket or extractor.

    (5) Grind opposite sides of nut off. If you are careful, you can save the stud. Once really close to the stud, a good, large, adjustable wrench will probably take it off. If not, replace the stud. My local parts store has all the sizes, studs, nuts, Ls & Rs, and different sizes. He said some sizes were getting hard to get. I`m not sure of the availability at our excellent Studebaker vendors.

    Things I haven`t had much luck with include: Nutsplitters, cold chisels, air chisels, lack of patience and swearing. The first three seem to mess up the nut more without necessarily removing it, making it impossible to find something that will fit it.

    Good luck, and happy driving.

    Paul

    Leave a comment:


  • 53k
    replied
    Thanks for all the great suggestions. As soon as it dries a little I may end trying a combination of most of them (truck is siting in my driveway and I can't move it easily). I don't have an impact wrench so I can't do that one. I used to have a nut cracker, but I haven't seen it for a while (notorious for losing tools). The lug nuts appear to be a mix of solid chromed ones (first one) and capped ones (second one). I'll use my Dremel cutter and try to peel the second one and I may be able to grind off the burrs enough to hammer a six-point socket on the first. I soaked the offending nuts with Deep Creep day before yesterday so hopefully that will help too. Rerun- those Sears Grip Tite sockets are neat. I'll check my Sears store first thing because I could use those a lot (rounded nuts are my style[:I]).

    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
    Museum R-4 engine
    1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
    1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

    Leave a comment:


  • bams50
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by BobPalma

    quote:Originally posted by bams50

    Either peel off the chrome covers or get a 6-point socket and beat it on- all the way down, and square. If you don't care about the wheel finish, heat is your friiend. Expect the studs to snap off.

    Robert (Bob) Andrews
    Ah, yes, Bob; spoken like a true, fellow experienced used-car dealer from the rust belt![:0][^] BP
    Yeah- and I also am pretty good at splitting lug nuts with a torch without damaging the stud threads. Same with blowing broken exhaust studs out of manifolds- again without ruining the threads.

    All part of the joy of CNY winters

    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"



    Leave a comment:


  • Rerun
    replied
    Paul,

    Here's a good tool set for the rusty rounded bolts and nuts.
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910324000P

    Jim Bradley
    Lewistown PA
    '78 Avanti II

    Leave a comment:


  • buddymander
    replied
    Put all the lugs back on about a turn loose and start her up and do the forward reverse forward reverse dance. That'll stretch the other studs maybe just enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • winchesterhawk
    replied
    You can get a socket that grips in loosening direction from the tool guys (snap-on, mac etc) that grips tighter counter clockwise. I usually strike the lug nuts straght on with a hammer and then loosen. That seems to work for me, and of course PB Blaster.






    60 Hawk w/ 50 K miles

    Leave a comment:


  • 52 Ragtop
    replied
    I have always put a dab of silicone grease on the lugs, keeps the nut from rusting in place.
    I once read about the amount of torque can vary just by a drop of water on the threads, (lubricating them) and a drop of oil the nut turned another 1/2 turn or so.
    You might try a "cheap" under size socket and "beat" it on, and hopefully it will come off.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • BobPalma
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by bams50

    Either peel off the chrome covers or get a 6-point socket and beat it on- all the way down, and square. If you don't care about the wheel finish, heat is your friiend. Expect the studs to snap off.

    Robert (Bob) Andrews
    Ah, yes, Bob; spoken like a true, fellow experienced used-car dealer from the rust belt![:0][^] BP

    Leave a comment:


  • bams50
    replied
    Either peel off the chrome covers or get a 6-point socket and beat it on- all the way down, and square. If you don't care about the wheel finish, heat is your friiend. Expect the studs to snap off.

    Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
    Parish, central NY 13131

    "Some people live for the rules, I live for exceptions"- 311

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"



    Leave a comment:

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