Lug nuts stuck, chewed up- problem solved!!

[52-fan]

I have welded another nut onto the end of a damaged lug nut to remove it. The heat might even help. Of course, I wasn't dealing with the kind of salt induced rust some of you have to put up with.


1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
"I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."

[53k]

Lug nuts are loose!
Using some of your excellent suggestions I succeeded in getting both messed up lug nuts off.
The one that was too tight- I used a grinding stone on my Dremel to knock off the burrs that kept me from getting a socket on it. When it was fairly smooth I hammered a 1/2 inch drive 19mm six-point socket on the nut all the way on. Then using my breaker bar it came loose- stud was ok. The second one- I could see that the stainless cap was cracked so I took a small cold chisel and opened the crack until I could peel off the shell. Then the 19mm socket went right on the inner nut, a little loose, but tight enough to loosen it with no trouble.
Still not complete joy though. The wheel was really stuck to the hub. Fortunately the wheel was a slotted steel wheel and I got my crowbar between the drum and the wheel and finally got it popped off. Then I aired up the tire only to find that air was coming through a crack in the sidewall, so... I guess the tires are really old. The DOT numbers on the tire are 438 which I have forgotten how to translate, but I will look that up. Looked it up- 43rd week of 1998 (or could it be 1988?)
Thanks again for the great suggestions.

Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine
1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

[52hawk]

Glad you got it done,but I wouldn't have pried against that drum.I use a sledge hammer on the sidewall of the tire. Take a dremel to the inside of the center hole of the wheel before you put em back on-just polish it up all the way around and remove a few thousandths-and a smear of grease or never-seize-so they don't get stuck again.

Oglesby,Il.
Anybody that drives faster than me is a maniac.Anybody that drives slower than me is an idiot.

[53k]

quote:Originally posted by 52hawk

Glad you got it done,but I wouldn't have pried against that drum.I use a sledge hammer on the sidewall of the tire. Take a dremel to the inside of the center hole of the wheel before you put em back on-just polish it up all the way around and remove a few thousandths-and a smear of grease or never-seize-so they don't get stuck again.

I thought about the danger of prying on the drum, but the tire wouldn't hold air so I didn't see any way of pounding on it effectively. That, and I'm known for doing dumb things[:I]. However, I didn't pry very hard- if I couldn't have seen movement I would have quit and tried something else.
I did plan to clean the center hole, but I hadn't thought about never-seize. I have some so that will be my next step (after I do something about the tire). Thanks.

Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine
1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

[Skip Lackie]

quote:Originally posted by Rerun

Paul,

Here's a good tool set for the rusty rounded bolts and nuts.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00910324000P

Jim Bradley
Lewistown PA
'78 Avanti II

Jim-
Thanks for posting that link. We should never pass up the opportunity to buy more tools!

Skip Lackie
Washington DC