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1963 259 v8 prestolite dist. rebuild question...

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  • BRUCESTUDE
    replied
    I sent my '64 V8 Prestolite off to an outfit in Portland, Ore. This was after I tried to find new weights, etc. It cost just over $100, and they did a great job-it runs excellent!
    I had the work done in '05, here is their link:

    www.philbingroup.com

    Leave a comment:


  • HAWK64
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by tutone63

    BTW...forgot to mention it with my last post. I did get the cam off, thank you, Tom. The spring did create a burr.

    I am to the point now to where I am not fully sure which direction to go. It helps to type it out, however.

    On one hand, I could purchase a complete delco distributor and install it, then deal with any (if any) problems that might come up from a used piece of equipment. I will more than likely have to purchase new points, condenser, and cap to finish the job

    On the other hand, I have a brand new condenser, cap and set of points for the prestolite that I bought about a year ago that I have never installed, (plus plugs and wires), If I purchase the parts that I need, then I can put the thing back together myself and KNOW everything about it without worrying about what issues a decent, used delco may have... or not so decent, depending.

    I think I am going to avoid the one on ebay, since there is no way to tell what kind of shape it is in under that cap. I will stew on it one more day or more, but I think I am just going to purchase the parts that I need for the prestolite, since I already have it disassebled. (hey, this forum is good therapy!)

    On that note...if (more than likely) I rebuild my Prestolite...does anywone know where I could get the vinyl retaining clip that holds the vaccum advance connector to the breaker plate? I busted mine while removing it. Would that be available at a parts house? Or am I SOL? ("Sorry, Outta Luck" to put it nicely)

    Again, thanks alot guys! Your help has been much appreciated!


    1963 Lark Custom, 259 V8, TT, 4 doors, 2 tone paint, and garaged for the winter...I can't wait til spring!!
    Nathan, the vinyl clip you mention lists as a lock ring in the parts books & part number is 1553186. Perhaps if you check via some of the U.S parts dealers you may be lucky. Otherwise a fine small piece of fuse wire should be appropriate to hold the vacuum arm in place.


    "QUIGLEY DOWN UNDER"
    MELBOURNE.

    Leave a comment:


  • R3 challenger
    replied
    I've had good luck rebuilding the Prestolite distributor, and in fact, we've used the original one in the R3 in the Plain Brown Wrapper all along (in combination with an MSD ignition box). It's worked great. The last set of advance weights I ordered from Studebaker International came with the bushings...in other words, the Chrysler type. I don't know, but maybe someone knows if they are all like that. That's the way to go if the posts are in decent shape. If the posts are too worn, there are plenty of used Prestolites around, (many having been pulled by owners who replaced them instead of doing the relatively easy rebuild), and you might find one that could be a parts donor.

    Most of the Prestolites lasted well over 50,000 miles before needing work, so with a proper distributor rebuild, an old car that is not driven every day might have the distributor last the rest of the owner's life.

    George

    george krem

    Leave a comment:


  • tutone63
    replied
    BTW...forgot to mention it with my last post. I did get the cam off, thank you, Tom. The spring did create a burr.

    I am to the point now to where I am not fully sure which direction to go. It helps to type it out, however.

    On one hand, I could purchase a complete delco distributor and install it, then deal with any (if any) problems that might come up from a used piece of equipment. I will more than likely have to purchase new points, condenser, and cap to finish the job

    On the other hand, I have a brand new condenser, cap and set of points for the prestolite that I bought about a year ago that I have never installed, (plus plugs and wires), If I purchase the parts that I need, then I can put the thing back together myself and KNOW everything about it without worrying about what issues a decent, used delco may have... or not so decent, depending.

    I think I am going to avoid the one on ebay, since there is no way to tell what kind of shape it is in under that cap. I will stew on it one more day or more, but I think I am just going to purchase the parts that I need for the prestolite, since I already have it disassebled. (hey, this forum is good therapy!)

    On that note...if (more than likely) I rebuild my Prestolite...does anywone know where I could get the vinyl retaining clip that holds the vaccum advance connector to the breaker plate? I busted mine while removing it. Would that be available at a parts house? Or am I SOL? ("Sorry, Outta Luck" to put it nicely)

    Again, thanks alot guys! Your help has been much appreciated!


    1963 Lark Custom, 259 V8, TT, 4 doors, 2 tone paint, and garaged for the winter...I can't wait til spring!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    Same fitup...
    BUT...it "COULD" have the same problems your's has...or worse.
    Something to think about.

    Nothing wrong with the Prestolite. It's just more dificult to adjust the weight springs because of having to remove the point plate.

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • tutone63
    replied
    Thanks guys!

    Would a delco distributor from a Studebaker 289 fit? I found one on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1951-...1%7C240%3A1318

    Does it look like it might be a good deal? what about the starting bid?


    1963 Lark Custom, 259 V8, TT, 4 doors, 2 tone paint, and garaged for the winter...I can't wait til spring!!

    Leave a comment:


  • gordr
    replied
    What Tom and Rich said.

    Once you get the cam out, you can often repair the weight s by drilling the holes out oversize, and installing bushings as used in Chrysler distributors. I don't have a part number, but they were used in Chrysler product 8-cylinder cars from the '60s through '80-something?

    Shaft size is the same, IIRC, although it would be prudent to take the shaft and weights with you when shopping.

    On a couple I did, I had to build up one edge of the hole with MIG weld before drilling it oversize for the bushing. Did the job.

    (Yes, I know this repair might change advance accuracy slightly. Well, if the weights were flopping around loose, it wasn't very good before, was it? We're going from plumb worn out to a little short of perfect, for pocket change.)

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    What is the possibility that there is ANOTHER lock clip sunk down in there around the shaft, stopping the cam from lifting up?

    There were two types of lock clip used, some are the wire type, others are a inside star lock washer looking spring clip, it could even have Both, even though it should not.

    Those are so tiny, that it COULD happen!

    The two shafts that the weights go on that sometimes wear out, are part of the main upper shaft and are priceless or no longer available, if I remember right, ditto the Camshaft (lobes).
    If those turn out to be toast, that is the point at which I would start looking for a re-buildable Delco, they do not require NLA parts...usually!

    And the Early Delco's ('51-'59 and to '61 on Hawks) are usually NOT expensive. The '60-'61 Lark Window Dist. is really NOT such a big deal, now that we have the Pertronix Units, the points are no longer an issue. Good luck with your rebuild, I hope you can save it!


    StudeRich at Studebakers Northwest -Ferndale,WA

    Leave a comment:


  • tbredehoft
    replied
    Realizing that you are working down in a hole.....

    Is there any axial movement at all? does it move and then stop?

    Or is it locked solid.

    If the latter, put a bit of ATF on the end, and let it seep down into the surface between the cam and the shaft. Give it overnight,anyway. It's also possible, although unlikely, that the snap ring rolled a burr on the shaft as it came out.

    If the cam moves on the shaft, try a bit of leverage to pry it off.

    [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
    Tom Bredehoft
    '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
    '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
    (Under Construction 571 hrs.)
    '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
    All Indiana built cars

    Leave a comment:


  • tutone63
    started a topic 1963 259 v8 prestolite dist. rebuild question...

    1963 259 v8 prestolite dist. rebuild question...

    Okay...Earlier I posted this thread, including the details to why I am here now...

    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=24023

    So, I have gotten to the point to were I know now that it is a distributor problem. At first i thought I would replace the Dist. with a delco unit. Then I thought, maybe I should just swap it out with a rebuilt Prestolite unit.

    Then my CASO tendancies hit...and I figured that the cheapest thing to do would be to rebuild the goofy thing...(actually, that is about all that I can afford!!)

    so. I have begun to disassemble the dist. I am down to the dist. cam that sits above the weights (those are the problem, totally worn, about to fly off their shafts!!) I have removed the cam lock spring (the thing that you have to expand and lift out in order to take off, small little wire thing) But now that it is off, I cannot get the cam off the shaft to get to the weights. It feels like it is hitting against the lock spring still, or something simalar. According to the shop manual, it seems like you should be able to lift the dist. cam off right after removing the lock spring, but I cannot get it to budge. If anyone could offer some help in order to get this thing off, I would be very grateful!


    1963 Lark Custom, 259 V8, TT, 4 doors, 2 tone paint, and garaged for the winter...I can't wait til spring!!
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