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  • Frame / Springs: Need Help please.

    Hi my name is Lou and I have a 1946 M5 Studebaker. I bought the truck sitting on a rotting 1983 Wagoneer frame. I decided to get my pieces together and rebuild the truck from the frame up. Anyway I bought an original Studebaker frame and now looking into Hiedts crossmember for the front end to convert too. Problem is I am not sure what Studebaker frame this is now. How can I tell the difference between an M5 chassis and a 2R chassis? Here is a picture of the frame I am preparing to build. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please ignore the Studebaker 289 on the frame, my apologies as I took the photo while mocking up the build.
    Last edited by Lujo68; 06-11-2021, 05:16 PM.

  • #2
    I believe it’s a 2R chassis - 1950 or newer. M5s had knee shocks but the cross members look the same.

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    • #3
      Thank you. New to Studebaker and it’s like learning all over again. But this truck had me at hello and I have to save her. Trying to make it as true to Studebaker as possible while adding some of its own personality. Hence the Stude V8 over the running Chrysler 360 I can only guess came with the wagoneer frame on the truck now and going back to a Studebaker frame over an easier modern frame and drivetrain swap. Thank you again.

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      • #4
        You will need 1955 to 1964 "C" Cab Truck Front and Rear Engine Mount BRACKETS, (8) Engine Mount Insulators and a TRUCK Clutch Housing and Transmission to complete the '63/'64 Full Flow 289 Car Engine install.

        This will be a good Fit just like a Much Newer Transtar Truck.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          Thanks, I am not sure if you can see it in the picture but are these the ones you speak of for engine mounts. I was already had these from the same person that sold me the engine and frame. Btw I paid $1200 for complete frame, rear end, engine, Bell housing, wheels and driveshaft.
          Last edited by Lujo68; 06-12-2021, 10:11 AM.

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          • #6
            Lou, Welcome to the forum. I hope you will join the Studebaker Drivers Club plus any of the chapters in the New York area that are close to you. They can help with being near by to help with your project.

            The engine is late 62-64 as it is a full flow V8. If it has on the machined pad to the left of the center at the front of the engine, you can tell if it is a 259 or 289. The 259 starts with a V and the 289 starts with a P. Great engine and with the lighter weight of the M5, it will make a great running truck for years to come.

            As this is a long term project, take your time and don't be afraid to get up and walk away ifyou run into a problem. Usually when you come back rested the problem doesn't seem as so big and will work out then.

            Again, Lou, welcome to the forum.

            Bob Mile
            Get your kicks on Route 66

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Lujo68 View Post
              Thanks, I am not sure if you can see it in the picture but are these the ones you speak of for engine mounts. I was already had these from the same person that sold me the engine and frame. Btw I paid $1200 for complete frame, rear end, engine, Bell housing, wheels and driveshaft.
              The Rear Engine Mounts Brackets look correct for a Truck from what I can See. The front may still be Car, Can't see anything in the Shade! They should be Brackets with Cup Shaped bottoms to support the Large Round Insulators like the Rear.

              I have to wonder if this Engine is a Car, or really IS maybe a Truck; 3E, 5E, 6E or 7E, V8 Engine.
              If you post the Engine Serial Number STAMPED into the LEFT Front Corner of the Block, on the Flat Pad as Bob M. said, we will know.

              I just noticed that the Water Manifold has been changed to a 4 Bolt Thermostat '53 to to '57 Car or '55-'64 "C" Cab Truck one.
              SOMEBODY Must have had a Clue what he was doing!

              Here is how that Rear mounting SHOULD be Assembled:
              101-36 and 101-37 are the Upper and Lower Small and Large Insulators.


              Click image for larger version

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              Last edited by StudeRich; 06-12-2021, 02:42 PM.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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              • #8
                Agreed it is a 2R chassis. As long as the engine sits solidly, you should be OK with the mounts. And I will disagree with Rich on the need for using truck bellhousing, truck clutch, and truck transmission. The car parts will be fine; after all, you are going to be driving it like a car, not hauling hogs to market. As far as front suspension goes, simply renewing the king pins in the stock axle, and then mounting a common Saginaw power steering box to the frame in basically the stock location will yield an easy-steering truck. If you are set on having independent front suspension and disc brakes, look into a Ford Aerostar van front clip. It has been recommended by many as being very adaptable to a Studebaker truck chassis.
                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                • #9
                  Thank you and especially thank you on the mechanic aspect you have explained to me. I was looking into cross members but there is not much out there and custom front ends from Fatman Fabrication for example seem not cheap at all. So I will look into the Aerostar and I also like the idea of the kingpins with a Saginaw PS steering box. This has me curious. I want to give the truck personality but I also want to keep her as true as I can to Studebaker. As for the numbers I see no pad but I do see what seems to be machining. The numbers I found were these
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    You found NO "Stamped into the Block" Engine Serial Numbers at all, just RAISED Casting Numbers of Engine Parts.
                    You have to look at the BLOCK!
                    However, those ARE Car Cyl. Heads, not Truck, which would have been just 1.0 point to 1.50 Lower Compression.

                    It is on the TOP, Left Front Corner of the Block, just Left (of the Car) of the Oil Filler Pipe Block-Off Plate.
                    Last edited by StudeRich; 06-14-2021, 06:01 PM.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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