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Cancer-Severed Parts

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  • Frame / Springs: Cancer-Severed Parts

    My 56 Power Hawk has a bit of rust. Here are pictures of body/frame mount; left side, inside trunk and same mount from underneath. The right side looks the same.
    I am planning on angle grinder/wire brushing the entire interior floor, patching holes with my TIG, then Corroseal rust converter/primer, perhaps some fiberglass patching, and finally epoxy paint.
    But I figure this is the worst and also the most structural/critical. I will not be pulling the body off the frame and doing the full resto thing. Do they make trunk pans or mount patch kits I could weld or rivet in? I had thought of just slathering the whole area with fiberglass, but would like to do something a bit more sophisticated.
    For the picture, the car is on jack stands placed in front of the rear wheels. This shows the gaps more.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Check out this site:
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at:


    • #3
      Whatever you do, NEVER use fiberglas on metal. Over time it draws moisture under via capillary action, and will actually destroy the metal faster than doing nothing.
      Proud NON-CASO

      I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

      If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln


      Ephesians 6:10-17
      Romans 15:13
      Deuteronomy 31:6
      Proverbs 28:1

      Illegitimi non carborundum


      • #4
        The rear corner supports are quite typical rust areas.

        Classic Enterprises has been making patch panels for those for years, as well as other typical areas.

        Leroy Cary Fabricating Services Studebaker specific patches have also been highly praised. (804) 561-3526
        5270 Dennisville Rd., Amelia Court House, VA 23002

        Obtain the necessary patches and replace the rusted areas with solid steel AND, as Bob said, use fiberglass for patching fiberglass ONLY!
        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10,
        '51 Commander Starlight,
        '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
        '56 Sky Hawk


        • #5
          Agree with metal use.

          One of the main ingredients of some the light body fillers is talcum powder. Easy to sand but no strength, its porous, and it sucks water up to the metal its attached to. Read the labels and buy quality waterproof fillers.


          • #6
            I'm a gonna buy some metal patch panels and then fiberglass them to my rusted floor.


            • #7
              Not a good plan . Number one no strength. Cut the old piece off. It's only tack welded to the trunk floor and the inner fender and rear body panel. Be sure the area under and at the side of that panel are not rusted. Because that's where it needs to weld to and it needs the trunk floor, the rear body panel and the side of the inner fender to be solid because that's where a lot of the strength comes from. Just covering up the rust with that new upper panel is not going to do much but make it look good for a short time. Kind of like putting lip stick on a pig. I made my own part just by taking a piece of tin and putting a couple 90% bends in it and using a ball peen hammer to form the indented area where the bolt hole is. If your an experienced metal worker piece of cake.


              • #8
                You probably need these.



                • #9
                  OK, look, I was just being funny about fiberglassing the steel in. Thanks for the advice and the referral. I'm gonna see what kind of steel I have and see if I can make my own patch. Other wise will order some. I bought a nice TIG a year ago with the money our beloved father Donald Trump sent us... now if I can only figure out how to use it.


                  • #10
                    I saw an abandoned GT Hawk ( actually bought and sold it after I realized it was too much for me), that had fiberglass over the floors as a repair. The fiberglass was falling thru, because the floor structure had rotted under that glass.


                    • #11
                      Problem is you are only putting a temporary band-aid to the problem. If you have rotted metal, chances are the metal is infected at least and 1” to 1.5” in diameter. This is why when you patch rot the golden rule most follow is to cut off at least 2” more in diameter if not cutting and replacing the section infected. Another problem is if you just weld to fill, you are welding to rust and it will be weak if not burn through. Worse idea is the fiberglass fill for what was already stated. You would do better in the long run cutting the section and welding in new metal or clean metal section from a donor. Also when done use a self etching primer and then an epoxy primer and paint.


                      • #12
                        I finished the repair:
                        I made two round plates/body-frame mounts. I bolted body to frame with metal and rubber washers. I was gonna weld the plates in, but figured my welding sucks and so screwed my plates to the trunk floor. The bolt tension alone was probably enough to hold it all together. (1st pix has aluminum sheet underneath to protect gas tank from welding)
                        Then I took to removing 1/2" of fiberglass that previous owner poured all over trunk floor. What a mess, hammer, chisels, disc sander, ankle grinder with wire brush... but then I remembered my air chisel and that worked great. I figured the fiberglass was put there because the floor was rusted thru. But much to my surprise, the metal was all looking pretty good.
                        Cleaned it up real good with brake parts cleaner, then put down a layer of Corroseal rust converter. It goes on white, then turns purple, and finally black when rust is converted. Corroseal is wetter than paint and so does a great job of getting into crevices and seams. In a few days I will finish it off with epoxy paint, then Kilmat sound deadener, and maybe some carpet.
                        Lot of work, but quite satisfying. What is the original color of the trunk metal?
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by Rafe Hollister; 06-18-2021, 01:03 AM.